by Jim Bellomo | Nov 5, 2024 | Uncategorized
Whew! We are home, but to be honest, I am still having a hard time remembering what day it is. Hopefully, I will get over that soon. Jet lag is pretty much over, but real life is intruding into my travel life. It’s so much fun (sarcasm here) getting home to more than 200 emails I had been just throwing into a folder in Mail to be read when we were home. Now, I have to read them and respond to them. I want to go on vacation again.
Our trip home was pretty decent. The airports got the wheelchair stuff for Kathleen correct this time. British Airways surprised us with two decent Indian meals on two flights. We stayed overnight at a Terminal 5 hotel (Sofitel) and found that we liked the Terminal 3 hotel (Hilton Garden Inn) we had stayed in last June a lot better. Our flight was on time, our luggage showed up quickly, we looked at the camera in passport control, and we were out of there in less than 15 minutes from when we got off the plane. Our Welcome Pickups guy grabbed us, and with the light traffic after 7:00, we were home in no time. Kathleen was off to bed. I got the mail, watched the Dodgers win the World Series and then hit the hay. A good end to a great trip.
Madrid
Going back to the very beginning, we liked Madrid a lot. We stayed at the Hotel Preciados in downtown. As you may recall, we toured for three full days: one in Toledo (our best day), one in Segovia (another great day), and one in Madrid itself, which could have been better. Read all about those in previous posts. The summary of Madrid was that we had a great time, and we’ve now been there and done that. It’s now crossed off our list, and we won’t be going back. A nice city, but it was no Edinburgh or Amsterdam for us—but we are glad we visited once.
Lisbon with Viking
The next stop was Lisbon before our Douro River cruise. As soon as we got there, we met Marianne, who was amazing. She was not only the person directing our pre-cruise stay in Lisbon but also the Program Director on our entire river cruise. She proved to be one of the best parts of the whole 10 days we spent with Viking. Her laugh, her sense of humor and the fact that she was always UP and always FUN made her someone we will remember for quite a while. More about Marianne later.
Sadly, as you have read, when we were touring Lisbon with Viking, Fatima, the worst guide I have ever experienced, ruined the entire experience for me. Not only would she not shut up, but she insulted me, too.
Our Douro River Cruise
OK, this is what you have been waiting for—how was the cruise? In a quick word, it was awesome. We love river cruising. We really didn’t discover how much we liked it with our Christmas Market cruise on the Danube last winter because it was so darned cold. So, if you have done a Christmas Market cruise, go back and do a warm weather cruise like the Douro and see what you missed.
One of my absolute favorite things about this cruise was seeing the cruise. By that, I mean that on our Danube cruise, most of the movement on the river was accomplished either at night when we were asleep or during the day when we were on an excursion. My absolute favorite part of our Douro River cruise was sailing on the river. I think I mentioned in a previous post that I could do this cruise again and never get off the ship. Seriously, my favorite days were the ones where we spent the majority of the time sailing on the river and watching Portugal go by.
Shore Excursions
Don’t get me wrong, the shore excursions were just fine. If I had to rate them, I would put Salamanca, Spain as #1 because it was like going back to what Europe used to be in the early 2,000s before over-tourism started. I also enjoyed the short visit to Castelo Rodrigo. I mean, the castle was nice, but the best part was that it was brief. We sailed most of the day and then did about a three-hour excursion to a somewhat interesting place. Probably my third favorite was the second half of our first day when we visited the Mateus Palace. What snoozer. But the second half of the day was to visit the Sandeman winery, where they make their wonderful port wine, and be shown around by a guide who really knew what she was talking about and made the tour fun. That was it. The rest of the days, the excursion was either blah (Favios), or we didn’t go (Lamego).
The ship/boat
I really have yet to spend any time discussing the ship itself. Unlike the Viking Longship, we sailed on the Danube, the Douro River boats (you can put a boat on a ship, but you can’t put a ship on a boat, and I think you could put a Douro River boat on a big ocean-going vessel) are smaller due to the smaller locks they must get through. So, instead of carrying up to 190 passengers like the Danube boats do, the Douro River boats carry a maximum of 106, and ours only had 99. That makes so much difference. It’s much more intimate. You get to know most of the crew because there are only 36 of them. And they all do all sorts of jobs. One of our favorite people onboard was Mitra. His official title (on his name tag) said, “Bar Chef.” He was the best bartender on board, and he really kept things going in the lounge. But he was also the sommelier in the dining room and helped out waiting on tables or restocking the buffet as well. Our favorite server in the dining room, Ovi, not only served us dinner but also was the crew member who walked us to our stateroom on embarkation to show us how everything worked. She often worked in the lounge serving drinks. The lady got around.
Embarkation/Disembarkation
Speaking of embarkation…those of you who have suffered through a three-hour embarkation as we did in May 2023 to get on Koningsdam in Vancouver or anything like it will LOVE embarkation on a river cruise. Especially this one. Since we had spent two days with Viking in Lisbon before we boarded the boat, they had everyone on one of four “luxury motor coaches,” and they staggered their morning departures, which meant that each of the “luxury motor coaches” made it to the ship about 15 to 20 minutes apart. So when we arrived, we went up the gangway, and they asked us our names. We were escorted (us by Ovi) to our stateroom, and our luggage arrived minutes later.
Disembarkation was just as efficient. We were given a list of when every stateroom would be getting off (we had been asked in advance how we would be leaving the ship) and told to put our big luggage out in the hallway outside our rooms 15 minutes before we would get off. Then, at our appointed time, we got up and got off. Simple as that. It really pays to be on a smaller boat.
Our stateroom
Our stateroom was a suite. There, I said it. We splurged and booked a suite. It wasn’t that much more, but it got us some things we really wanted. The first was an actual extra room. We had both a living room and a bedroom. Not to mention a walk-in closet and a smallish bath (smaller than on our Danube cruise). So when I would wake up really early, I could sit in the living room and work on photos or on a new post without waking up Kathleen or needing to get completely dressed and go to the lounge.
The other reason we LOVED this suite was…free laundry. Yes, folks, we could send out as much laundry as we wanted, and it was included. On our Danube cruise, we had sent out a few things because we had already been in Lisbon for a few days, and then we did Prague and Nuremberg as a pre-cruise extension, so when we got on, we needed to have some things washed. But the prices were OFF THE CHARTS! As I recall, I got one pair of jeans, two pairs of socks, and two shirts, and it cost me $20. On Viking Torgil, we got to the ship with lots of dirty laundry from four days in Madrid, two nights in Lisbon and a single suitcase each. We immediately sent out all our dirty laundry (they gave us two really nice-sized bags to send it out in) and had it back early the next day. From that point on, I pretty much sent out laundry every day. Whatever I wore the day before, send it out! And it got to the point where it would come back on the same day.
If you would like to see photos of the suite, you may have to wait. I suddenly realized when we got home that I had never really taken any pictures of the suite. I had a couple (the bedroom and bathroom) but missed the living room. But never fear; you will be able to see a whole bunch soon because Mike and Cathy had the same type of suite we did, and Mike always does an awesome job of taking ship/boat/stateroom photos. His review of the cruise with all those photos should be out soon (HEY MIKE—is the review done yet? ?). When it is done, I will post about it, and you can find it right here at www.thepreismans.com. In the meantime, here are a few photos I took of our room.
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The bedroom.
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The bathroom
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The shower. Smaller than on their ocean ships.
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Our walk in closet
The Food
Everyone wants to know about the food on a cruise. We have found that Viking does a “fine” job of food on its ocean and river cruises. By that, we mean we like the food. It’s not gourmet, and it doesn’t hold a candle to Oceania. But our most memorable meals on this trip came when we were off the boat (lunch in Toledo and lunch in Cascais come to mind).
On board Viking Torgil, we had a wonderful British chef named Michael Bee Venet. I say he is wonderful less for his culinary skills than for his wonderful personality. Every night, he would preview the meal at our pre-dinner destination talk. He was hilarious. He also regularly stopped by everyone’s table. At breakfast, he would often come around with a special baked good and serve it to us himself.
But we thought his food was oversalted. Sometimes, it was just finishing salt. Some soups were fine when you got down below the surface, but those first three spoonfuls were very salty. We also thought the food was better at the beginning of the week than at the end. It wasn’t bad, just not as good. On a scale of one to ten, it was an eight when we started and a six when we finished.
By the way, when you take a Douro river cruise, you eat all your meals in the dining room. It is totally casual. I think we only saw anyone in anything dressy twice. OMG— people wore shorts in the dining room. We wore jeans and tennis shoes. On our Danube cruise, there was a small buffet area at the front of the boat, but not on the smaller Douro boat. It was the dining room or hunger.
All in all, the food was good and plentiful, and we had nothing to complain about…or wait! I want to complain about the bread. It was too good. Seriously, it may be the best bread I have had on any cruise. Delicious—and I ate way too much of it. Oh, and there were fewer veggies than we would have liked as well. Kind of like our ocean cruise on Viking Venus in June; there was a lot of red meat, which we try to avoid at home. Here’s a gallery of some dishes we ate on this trip. I will try to tell you where we ate them, but if you like great food, check them out. All were shot with my phone, so feel free to look at them on yours. Remember, you can click them to enlarge them and scroll through. I’ll start with some photos of where we all ate.
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At our usual table in the dining room on Torgil.
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And all of us at the Fado dinner.
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Kathleen and I at Botin Restaurant, the oldest in the world. Opened in 1725.
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The gazpacho at Botin
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The suckling pig specialty of the house at Botin.
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They also did young lamb.
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But pretty much everyone had the pig.
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Botin had great desserts. Especially this Catalan version of creme brûlée
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And some flan for Mike.
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While in Madrid, Cathy, Mike and I went to a tapas place one night. They had amazing eggplant.
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As well as patatas bravas.
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When I Madrid, you have to try churros and chocolate.
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One day in Madrid Kathleen and I had this awesome salad for lunch and…
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this wafer thin pizza. Salad was great. Pizza was not.
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Stuffed peppers in Segovia
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I think our best meal was in Toledo. This is my pork. Amazing.
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Mike and Steve had the boar cheeks. They raved about it.
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But the dessert—manchego cheese cake—was the best of the trip for rme.
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They had some interesting deserts.
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A pizza we had later in the trip In Salamanca, Spain.
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Chorizo on the table in Segovia.
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Some really great Segovian chorizo.
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As always in Portugal, I ate a lot of octopus.
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Lots of octopus. I think I had it at least four times. Probably more.
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Of course Cathy had to have a burger. Sometimes you just need a taste of home.
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When we stopped for lunch between Lisbon and Porto we got chicken or…
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Portugal’s national food—reconstructed cod.
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Onboard Mike got the biggest tiger prawns we have seen.
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And a nice risotto
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Something else we ate on board. I can’t remember what it was but it was good.
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A delicious orange cake on Torgil.
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And I got a hot dog! It’s a Bob thing. Only he understands.
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When we stopped in the Lebanese place in Lisbon, the tabouli was excellent.
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At the Fado show we got some decent soup.
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My entrée at the Fado show.
I almost forgot the “Steve Test.” For those of you unfamiliar with the Steve Test. I call this the Steve Test because my brother Steve came up with it. I think it’s brilliant. This is the entire test: If you eat in a restaurant while traveling, and if that restaurant is near you once you get home, would you go there again? If it were in your hometown, would we eat there regularly? For this trip, the places that passed the Steve test were Clandestina in Toledo, the Lebanese restaurant behind the TimeOut Market and a few of the meals on Torgil, but the ultimate A+ on the Steve Test went to the Chicken restaurant in Cascais on the day we toured Sintra. I know my brother believes it’s the best chicken he has ever had.
Entertainment
If you have been reading my stuff for a while, you know we have kind of given up on shows. Besides, they really don’t have shows on river cruises. However, they did have some great entertainers come on board while we were in ports, and Mike will have photos of those, I am sure. He can stay up later than we can. But I did want to mention two of the best entertainers I have ever seen on a ship—river or ocean.
The first is not really an entertainer but a server in the restaurant. He was kind of in charge of singing Happy Birthday to anyone celebrating one. He also was a total clown. He has a great voice, but what really makes him GREAT is his face. He can turn it into the absolute funniest looks you have ever seen. Here are a few shots of our buddy Agus doing his thing.
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He was singing to a woman who was celebrating her birthday.
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See what I mean about his face.
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No accompaniment.
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He has a thousand of looks.
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And is truly an amazing performer and a really nice guy.
He was so special that I am going to try to add a video I took of him. If it works, it’s right here. IT WORKED!
[videopress UVzEfu7W]
The other amazing performer on the ship was our wonderful, incredible, marvelous, fantastic Program Director, Marianne. We had heard that she was going to sing one night after dinner in the lounge. We were both pretty tired, but I persuaded Kathleen to go, and were we ever glad we did. She was all those adjectives I put up above and more. It might be the best show I have ever seen on any ship or boat. For sure, it was the most fun. And now that I got the Agus video to load, here’s a little bit of Marianne’s show.
[videopress or6hDDlg]
Besides being the best Program/Cruise Director we have ever sailed with (35+ cruises), she is one of the nicest and most caring people you will ever meet. We would take a cruise she was on just to sail with her.
To Sum Up
How much did we enjoy this river cruise? For the first time in more than twenty years (since we took our first Panama Canal cruise on Celebrity’s Infinity in 2004), we don’t have an ocean cruise booked, and we don’t think we will take one in the foreseeable future. We have booked a Chobe River cruise in Africa, a Columbia River Cruise, and a Great Lakes cruise, but that’s it. We can’t think of anywhere that big-ship ocean cruises go that we still really want to see. We aren’t saying we wouldn’t go if friends wanted to go together, but we have been there and done that just about everywhere ocean cruises go. I guess we are now river cruise people.
WAIT! I almost forgot the best part of the entire trip—getting to travel once again with Steve, Jamie, Mike and Cathy—our October gang. We will all do it again next October when we cruise the Columbia River between Washington and Oregon.
No man ever steps in the same river twice, for it’s not the same river and he’s not the same man. —Heraclitus
by Jim Bellomo | Oct 26, 2024 | Uncategorized
The following day, we were up and ready to tour Porto. When we first arrived (six days ago), there was no time to tour the city. It was pretty much getting on the boat, having dinner, going to bed after a long day of touring to get to the boat. So today was our day to tour Porto.
We had a choice of two tours. One was a walking tour of Porto (which we skipped to make Kathleen’s knee happy) and an overview tour on the “luxury motor coach.” We opted for that one. It included more geography but fewer stops and time on the ground. Which for us worked well. Our two scheduled stops were at the Cathedral of Porto (what else?) and at the spot where the Douro River meets the Atlantic Ocean. Both were very scenic. And, of course, I got a lot of photos. It wasn’t a long tour, about three hours total, but we felt we got what we paid for (it was included ?). Here are the photos I took while out and about on the tour. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…
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Early morning just before breakfast.
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And now to the cathedral and a statue of Paiva Couceiros, the founder of Porto.
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Looking at the Cathedral from the front.
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Inside a beautiful church.
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The baptismal font.
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And more church.
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And more church.
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And more church.
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For an atheist, I sure tour a lot of churches.
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Tiles inside the cloisters of the church.
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Next to the church was this beautiful building, fully tiled. And another colorful one next to it.
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More views from outside the cathedral.
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And more.
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And a beautiful lady waiting for me.
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Our tour guide Claudia.
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Everyone is waiting for the bus.
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Being watched by Paiva Couceiros.
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We reach the sea and the castle that defended Porto.
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This is where we saw this strange building. It turned out to be the cruise terminal for ocean ships.
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And there were beaches.
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With lots of people on them.
After our tour, we returned to the Torgil, where we had a very delicious last lunch. I realize I have not had much to say about the food, the crew, or the boat, but I will get to it in my summary, which I will try to write on our flight or after we get home. So, if that is what you are waiting for, you must hold on a little longer.
After lunch, Kathleen started packing as we would be getting off the boat early the following day. I decided to walk back across the river (on a bridge—I haven’t mastered the whole walking on water thing ?) and hike around Porto before it started raining. This is where I was totally disappointed by both Google Maps and Apple Maps. For me to walk across the river on a bridge, both of them had me crossing from one side to the other on the small foot ferry. I didn’t want to cross the Douro on a boat. I had already been up and down the river so many times on a boat I wanted to walk and get the view from a bridge. But they would NOT give me directions to Porto (while walking) to cross on a bridge. I tried putting in driving, but there are so many one-way streets that it would have taken me an hour to get to the bridge. So I went down to reception on the boat and asked Marianna (our guide for the entire week) if she knew the easiest way to get to the bridge so I could walk across. She has lived in Porto for years and said, “Of course. Just get off the boat, turn left, walk straight down the wharf to the bridge and cross it. OMG, Apple and Google—you couldn’t figure that out???
I had no problems once I got across the bridge and walked up to the top of the stairs leading into the city. I took a bunch of photos, and here they are. (HEY! I saw you looking at those on your phone—cut that out! ?)
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I saw this woman in a window.
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There should be a point to the woman but there isn’t. This is her view.
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This is her view in a close up.
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This is the bridge I crossed that Apple and Google could not find.
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Had to go up these stairs.
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On the walk down the wharf.
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It was quite the climb.
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In both directions.
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I finally got into the city.
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Saw some great buildings.
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Some really cool windows in need of sanding and painting.
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And more cool streets.
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Inside Porto’s major train station there are so many tiles.
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This is so typical. These two stood in my way for more than five minutes with each of them trying different poses.
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The train station. I love train stations.
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Just to prove I was there.
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Love the color.
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Looking up towards a different cathedral.
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A demonstration passing me.
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Ran into a police standoff.
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Not sure why this guy would not come out but he didn’t look too dangerous.
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A cool church messed up by a tarp.
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Crazy streets.
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They told me there were only five locks on the Douro. I beg to differ.
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My last Douro shot of the day.
That about covered our day. I went back on board the boat and packed up everything I could. Then, it was time for the goodbye from the crew cocktail party and our last dinner on board. After that, it was bedtime with an early wake-up as we had to get off the ship to meet our driver/guide, who would take us to Lisbon by 8:30 am the next day.
PS: Sorry for two posts today. Chalk it up to over-tourism. We are in Lisbon today, and I went out to take a walk and scout for things to do. The city is packed like the cans of sardines that Portugal is famous for. I walked up to get a shot of views from the castle, and there was a one-hour and forty-five-minute wait to get tickets—so many people. When I walked down to another viewpoint I had shot from in December, I found hundreds of people and the reason why the place was so crowded. Out in the harbor are two huge cruise ships, each with 4,000+ passengers. More about that in a couple of days. And yes, I realize I am a kind of a hypocrite for complaining about tourism when I am a tourist ??.
Touring is hard on the body. —Eminem
by Jim Bellomo | Oct 23, 2024 | Uncategorized
When I finished telling you about our visit to Salamanca, I forgot to mention that when we returned to the boat that evening, it had made the turnaround, and we were now heading west again and retracing our steps back to Porto. As I write this to tell you about our day in Favios (pronounced fa v? OOSH), we are already back in Porto and have spent a full day on the river getting here. More about that tomorrow.
Our day after Salamanca was all about stopping in Favios for two things: bread and Muscatel wine. Now I love bread. Always have. But I am not a big fan of Muscatel wine. It’s way too sweet for my tastes. Port is right on the border of sweetness for me. Muscatel goes over the edge. But off we went to try it all out. After a 75-minute ride on our “luxury motor coach,” we found ourselves in the village of Favios. We were met by a very nice young man named Mohammed, who took us to what is best described as a bread demonstration center. There, an older Portuguese woman showed us how she makes bread. It’s not really the making but the dividing it into pieces and then putting it in the oven. We also got to taste the bread (which was nowhere near as good as the bread we have been getting on the ship) and ask questions. There weren’t a lot of questions, so we moved on.
After our bread demo, we headed to the Favios Museum of Bread and Muscatel. Seriously, they have a very well-conceived, four-room museum that is beautifully graphically designed for their village’s two main products. A young lady named Vanessa gave us the tour, and then we were back on the bus to visit a Muscatel winery about three miles away.
To be honest, I am about wineryed out by this point. And since I have no interest in Muscatel tasting, this was kind of a flat stop for me. But others seemed to enjoy it, so no complaints on my part. Besides, it was a quick (less than 30 minutes) stop, and then we were off to lunch at a local winery. Lunch was OK (nothing like we would have had on the ship—but more traditional?), and in a little more than an hour, we were on our way back to the boat. Here are the pictures I took in Favios. If you like bread or wine, these might interest you. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…
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The first thing we saw getting out of the bus was this girl’s school. The boy’s school was at the other end of the block.
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Mohammed introduces the baker.
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And cuts up the dough.
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Mohammed gets excited about the final product.
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And the baker puts more in the fire.
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Outside on the way to the museum, I got a couple of shots of Favios.
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Including this watcher on the balcony. He was keeping an eye on the tourists.
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Great streets in Favios.
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Vanessa runs the museum.
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Some great scenery in wine country.
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Dogs were everywhere and allowed to run (and sleep) freely.
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Our host at the Muscael winery.
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Shows us the steel tanks.
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Outside was this great mural of the winery’s founder.
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Off to lunch at another winery.
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Where the grape vines were changing colors….
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….and they had pretty evil looking fountain…
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…as well as a very cool pickup truck.
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I love old trucks.
After we were back on board, the boat headed down the river through one of the locks the boat had gone through on the way up the river, but most of us had missed it when we were visiting Castela Rodrigo a few days before. That’s one of the best parts of this cruise. If you miss something on the river, they ensure you sail through that part on the way back while you are onboard so you can see it. Took a bunch of photos on that part of the trip as well. You know the drill.
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Headed back down I decided to get Kathleen this villa for her birthday.
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And of course I love a train so when this multi-colored one went by, you get a photo.
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Entering the lock we missed.
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The captain ready to guide it in.
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It’s going to be a tight squeeze.
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We are at the top of the dam and the river is far below us.
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Getting shut in.
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This is a guillotine lock. That means it goes up and down to let us through.
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When it opens and the ship moves under it, you get drenched if you are out in the open.
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We have now descended and are making our way out of the lock.
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Another Viking boat is coming in to go upriver.
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We find ourselves facing two bridges.
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And pass another boat before we make a quick stop….
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at Régua to pick up folks who went on an optional excursion.
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Five of our group went off to find a Pharmacia where we could get cold meds. On the way, I saw these doors.
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And found my way back to the ship.
That about covers our day in Favios. For a glimpse of what is yet to come, tomorrow is all about being on the river because we skipped the excursion (it was more monasteries and cathedrals) and had a glorious sunny day sailing west on the Douro into Porto. See you then.
Wine hath drowned more men than the sea. —Thomas Fuller
by Jim Bellomo | Oct 23, 2024 | Uncategorized
Kathleen and I started coming to Europe in 2002 when we went to Italy for the first time. Since then, we have been back at least 20 times. We genuinely love this continent. But I am sure you have seen the protests due to over-tourism. That’s a problem many tourist destination cities are having, with too many people showing up and using up all the local resources and overcrowding cities, especially cruise ports. But our visit to Salamanca, Spain, was like going back in time—a European city before tourism discovered it. Don’t get me wrong, there were still souvenir shops and tourist cafes, but it just reminded us of the first time we were in places like Venice, Florence, Barcelona or Palermo.
Our day (like most days when you cruise the Douro River) started with a long ride on a “luxury motor coach” from our mooring spot on the river up the canyons and then a long drive on the plateau above the river. This one was our longest ride but with the biggest reward. It was also (at nine hours) the longest we would be away from the Torgil. Again, I can’t stress enough how great the “luxury motor coaches” Viking uses here on the Douro are. They are truly luxurious. It helps so much to face a 3+ hour drive (round trip) on a bus when it has so much legroom, decent WiFi and an excellent guide who tells you what you want to know and lets you look out the window (on the way there) or sleep (on the way back).
After a “comfort stop” about halfway there, we arrived in Salamanca around 10:00 a.m. with no expectations. Our first stop was the local Mercado (market). It’s not a big market—about one-tenth the size of La Bocadilla in Barcelona or about one-quarter the size of Pike Place Market in Seattle. Viking had arranged a cheese, sausage and wine tasting. And as our guide, Marianna, said, “It’s 5:00 p.m. somewhere.” The tiny bites (billed as tapas—which they weren’t) were just right for that time of the day. I skipped the wine. It has become my experience that if they give you red wine in the morning at a stand-up spot in a market, it’s not going to be the best wine ever. Here are some shots I took in the market and on the river that morning. No reminder is needed for my regular readers.
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Early morning on the Douro.
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It is such a peaceful river.
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And the natural beauty is everywhere.
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Now in Salamanca, the first building we saw.
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Where this man was relaxing but had been there far too long.
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Outside the market was a woman cutting something.
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After the “tapas,” we were broken up into smaller groups, and each group got a local guide who let us explore the city further. We got fortunate with our guide, Maria Carmen (she said to call her Mamen). She was one of the best we had on the whole cruise. She knew her city and had a wonderful sense of humor. Sadly, she was not with us all day, but just enough that we truly got the flavor of her city. Her part of the tour started in the Plaza Mayor (I think every Spanish city has one of these) and took us through the University to the old and new cathedrals. They were genuinely unusual cathedrals as they were attached to each other, and you could move freely between them. Mamen got us right up to the steps of the new cathedral before she let us go off on our own—one note here about how great Viking was on this tour. Once we were no longer touring with Mamen, they had made arrangements in advance that if we just showed our Viking lanyard (attached to our Quiet Vox listening devices—see the one on Mamen’s neck above), we could get into many attractions and Viking paid the entrance fee. That’s classy. I think the best way for me to show you what we saw later in the tour is to post the photos with some short and sweet captions. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…
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Our starting spot in Plaza Mayor.
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One corner of the plaza.
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Now out of the plaza and moving through the city.
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Down narrow streets.
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To a nice church we couldn’t go into.
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But had a great tower.
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Now further along to another old church that is now a library.
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With a statue and fountain outside.
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And next to it the library with a beautiful façade.
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Lots of steps.
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This wall with seashells. Mamen said to come back later when the sun was on the wall for diagonal lines.
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Mamen explains the sculptures on the walls.
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Like this one.
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And this one…
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And this one…
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And this one…
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And this one…
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And this one that had a very creepy legend about if you could spot it you had good luck with the ladies but then ended up dying and going to hell.
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The blue skies and great buildings kept calling my lens.
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Just beautiful.
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After our first day of rain…
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…these skies have been our constant companion.
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From in the courtyard of the library.
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Looking out.
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Reminded me of the shots I got in the Belém monastery.
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And now the cathedral.
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In front of this cathedral was another church.
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Looking up at the new cathedral façade.
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And above the doors another set of characters.
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Including a spaceman added a long time after the building of the cathedral.
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And another shot before I went inside.
Now that Mamen had let us go, I decided to tour the cathedral quickly before heading back to Plaza Mayor, where Kathleen awaited. I am truly glad I did. I don’t usually take a lot of photos of the insides of churches. I leave that to my buddy Mike. In fact, Bob (my best Canadian friend) and I like to make fun of Mike for all the cathedral photos he takes. Don’t believe me? Wait until Mike posts his review of this trip, and I will link it so you can see 10x the photos I took in this church…and all the other churches in the world ?.
But this cathedral was so beautiful, I just kept taking photo after photo. See for yourself. Pretend the usual warning about phones is here, OK?
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This spot was awe-inspiring.
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As was this one.
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The doors were very traditional but some of the art was very “interesting.”
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Like this piece which was as big as a garage door.
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Which was right across from this very traditional chapel.
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And that was right next to this more modern piece which was as high as a three-story building.
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Which was across from this very traditional altar piece.
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All of these were in this wing of the new cathedral.
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Including this huge door.. It was the size of two garage doors, side by side with five more doors on top of them.
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I couldn’t get into the middle of the cathedral so this seems off-center.
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Sorry.
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One of the side chapels.
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The pulpit.
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Looking to back of the cathedral from the center of the choir area.
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The stalls in the choir area. Intereting carving.
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The back side of the organ.
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The knave leading to the old cathedra.
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Looking towards the altar of the old cathedral.
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The up close view of the altar of the old cathedral.
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Looking up at the dome of the old cathedral.
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Maybe, the founders of the old cathedral are buried here.
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The last room in the old cathedral.
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Once outside two photos of the cathedral looking back.
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This is number 2.
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They do nice manhole covers.
One last thing before we leave Salamanca. While waiting with Kathleen, I took did street photography and want to share them. It’s the best thing a photographer can do to capture the heart of a city.
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I love the look of European school kids.
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And old men in bright jackets on the phone.
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And people trying to figure out where the hell they are.
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Locals looking in disgust at tourists.
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People with dogs…
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And college professors coming out of tobacco shops fully dressed for success.
After our excursion, I met Kathleen, and we grabbed a snack (a pizza and two glasses of wine for less than 12 euros—what a deal), met the rest of the gang, had a gelato (so we could have a place to sit), met up with the big group and then went to an old casino (now used as a convention/banquet space) where Viking had snacks for us. We skipped them (pretty dry sandwiches), but we were returning to the ship in less than 20 minutes, which was GREAT! We had a fantastic time in Salamanca, which to me is what Europe used to be like. Sadly, I am sure if I came back in five years, it would be overrun as well.
Overtourism is like planning a dinner party for 12 and 12,000 showing up. —Elizabeth Becker, noted tourism expert
by Jim Bellomo | Oct 20, 2024 | Uncategorized
We are on board and sailing. Sorry about the lack of posts yesterday, but it was a very busy day, and I am still not sure I will get this one out today. There are lots of things to take pictures of, lots of food to eat and lots of other stuff going on. So away we go.
After our long bus ride from Lisbon to Porto, we boarded the Viking Torgil. And I took the photo at the top of this page from our verandah on the ship. We are in Suite (yes, we got a suite) 320. It’s an actual suite with a living room and a separate bedroom. It’s really nice. And it has a balcony and a verandah. I will take some pics later and let you see it.
One thing that is totally different about this river cruise from our Danube Christmas Market cruise last December is that the ship sailed down (or was it up?) the Danube in the middle of the night. We would go to bed in one place and wake up in another. This does not happen on the Douro. The authority that makes the river’s navigation rules will not allow ships to sail in the dark. There seems to be some discussion of when dark really is (the ships go by what is called Nautical Twilight—about an hour before actual dawn), but they can’t start moving until then. So that means we get to see a lot more of the river…which is beautiful. We left Porto early in the morning (around 6:00 am) when it was still almost dark. I was up and shooting when we pulled out and here’s my first set of photos of Porto in the dark. A bunch of bridges and some great churches and hotels are lit up. It was just beautiful. So, take a look at my first batch, and I will be back with the narrative in a few minutes. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…
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The city as we left.
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This beautiful hotel is totally lit up at night.
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It just draws your eye and my lens.
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This church did the same thing.
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Here’s the hotel again.
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And the general harbor area.
As we sailed on, it got lighter (that is how the earth works…I think ?), and we got to see much more of the river. When you sail the Duoro, you soon discover that about half the buildings you see are very old and, in many cases, abandoned. But they are great subjects for photography. The other subject that grabs the eye is the terraced vineyards. You will see them throughout my photos on this trip. Here are a few more from later in the morning (I had to stop to eat breakfast ?.) By now, you know how to see them.
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See what I mean about buildings…
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they just keep coming.
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But sometimes you get a rower.
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Or a whole bunch of them.
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In differeent skulls.
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And more buildings.
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And more.
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And more
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And terraced landscapes.
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A palatial estate.
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A statue in a town we floated through.
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Another villa.
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Passing another cruise ship going west.
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These are the boats that dredge the river.
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Lots of green everywhere.
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I liked the orange on this house.
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I find this photo very restful.
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Mour houses
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These guys were fishing and one of the crew says they throw the fish that are too small back down the tubes.
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Saw a heron/crane/bird.
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This is the ultimate calming photo. Totally serene.
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Terraces again.
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Houses again.
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Birds again.
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Another ship coming…
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…and going.
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Houses again
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See
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A different kind of fisherman.
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A cool winery.
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A close-up of their tile.
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More terraces and a building
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Another calm spot on the river.
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And a beautiful rock formation.
One of the great things about being on a boat this small is that you get to know every person on the crew. I have made friends with a sailor who works with the captain (who is only in his 30s—YIKES! I have kids a lot older than that), and he asked the captain if Mike, Steve and I could join them in the wheelhouse. That was cool. Watching him navigate the river and the locks is something. The Douro is a twisty river with some very narrow spots and five large locks we have to go through. The depth also varies from 100 meters to as little as three meters. That’s almost scary, but our captain does a great job. And it was nice of him to let us tour his work area.
Our captain may have been young, but you should see him pilot this boat. He had to transition five locks on the Douro, including the Carrapatelo Lock, Europe’s highest lock. If you have been through the Panama Canal, imagine a smaller lock that is 35 meters high. That’s just over 114 feet high. Sailing into that lock is scary. And what made it worse was that it started to pour just as we arrived. My photos of our transitioning this lock don’t do the experience justice, but here they are.
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Sailing into the lock.
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The walls are VERY close on both sides.
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Looking up 114 feet.
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It really makes you feel small.
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Especially once they close the gates behind you.
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We are finally there.
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And sailing out.
This was most of our morning and early afternoon. Around 2:00 pm, we docked at a tiny port town called Lamego. I need to note that there really aren’t any places to tour directly on the river. To tour, you must get into a “luxury motor coach” and drive. Sometimes, it is a short distance (in the case of the tour I am about to tell you about to the Mateus Palace) or sometimes long (as in the case of where we are going today—Salamanca, Spain). Either way, it means some time on a bus. But again, these are the nicest buses we have ever had for our tours. Lots of space, about two-thirds full and genuinely a nice bus. They even have WiFi.
As I mentioned, our visit on this day (Saturday) was to the Mateus Palace (if you are in our age bracket, you probably remember the Mateus rosé ads on TV as a kid) and then on to Quinta do Seixo. The palace itself was a bust. Or maybe I am just worn out from visiting palaces, libraries and monasteries. After the ones we saw while visiting Madrid, this one seemed shabby. It was dark and dreary, but the guide was fun. If you are a Parks and Rec fan, imagine your tour guide was April Ludgate. She even looked a little like her. Here’s my pics of the Palace. They did have nice grounds and we had plenty of time to walk around them. So much so that I even resorted to flower photos, which I never do. But some came out, so I thought I would show them to you anyway. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…
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Entering the gates of the Mateus Palace.
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They say the palace is Baroque. I say if it’s baroque, fix it.
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Sorry, I had to say that previous caption.
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In the reflecting pool is statue of a sleeping woman.
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The chapel next to the Palace.
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inside the chapel.
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A rose.
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Looking into the garden via a long, dark tunnel.
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The gardens.
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A zen garden.
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Some cool arches.
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Some pretty flowers.
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Another rose. Smelled as sweet.
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This is my best rose. Really different.
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The Arnold Palmer tree.
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A diorama in the palace. All done in miniature.
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The library in panoramic.
After the Palace, it was back on the “luxury motor coach,” and we headed off to the Sandeman Winery for a tour and a port tasting. This is where we ran into the best guide of the entire cruise (so far), Manuela. This woman was funny and knowledgeable, with a breadth of experience that made her great at her job. She seemed to have done just about every job in the winery, from being a tour guide to crushing grapes (yes, they really do crush grapes by stomping on them just like “I Love Lucy), and you could tell she loved all of it.
One other thing about this winery. It sits on top of a hill. A very high hill. With a one-lane road (not one lane both ways, just ONE LANE) and, our “luxury motor coach” went up this hill. Looking out the side away from the hill was not for the faint of heart. Here are the photos from the visit. You know the drill.
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On our way to the winery, we passed our boat heading to meet us up the river.
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The Sandeman Winery logo. We were repeatedly told, “He’s no Zorro.”
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Looking down from the winery to the road we came up on.
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Manuela, our awesome guide.
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She knew EVERYTHING!
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And was a superb model for the perfect light I had in the darkened hallway.
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A whole lot of bottles of port.
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In barrels as well.
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Inside the winery, these are the vats where they crush the grapes.
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Looking down to the village where we would meet the boat.
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Thought I would frame the shot with olive trees. Kind of artsy.
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Looking down on the village again.
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And our boat is now arriving.
After we safely drove down the hill (how do those drivers do that?), we were back on board for dinner and bed. It had been a very long day, and I hope you enjoyed traveling along. I have to go now. It’s time for Salamanca, Spain.
All the rivers run into the sea; yet the sea is not full. —King Solomon