In Bruge…and shooting

I made it! All my connections worked. The SAS flight was a mixed bag. On the bright side, the food wasn’t bad, the seat was huge, and the flight seemed to go by quickly. The downsides included advertised WiFi that didn’t work at all (the pilot announced after takeoff that it would be out for the duration of the flight), the plane was old, things were breaking, and the food that was fine took forever to be served. Seriously. We boarded at 3:30, and we pulled back from the gate at 4:10. The seatbelt light was turned off around 4:30. They brought warm cashews and water at 4:45, and dinner wasn’t served until 8:30.

See what I mean about my seat being big! Widest Business class seat I have ever had.

I hadn’t been on a flight with outside cameras before. Takeoff and landing were very cool.

It was crazy and strange that it took four flight attendants that long to serve dinner. One of the weirdest things was a male FA who was in a regular FA uniform when we got on, then changed into chef whites to serve dinner. He brought a trolley up each aisle, offered a choice of appetizers, and then asked if you would like a salad, which he made while standing there. He did the same thing later with the entrée and dessert. It felt like they were pretending to make the food onboard. By the time they were finished and they shut off the lights so we could sleep, it was almost 10:00, and we were landing at the West Coast equivalent of 1:00 am.

I could stretch out completely and not even get my feet near the well they would go into when I was sleeping.

The other major disappointment was the entertainment. One fairly recent movie (the new Mandalorian film I’d already seen), and everything else was pretty much worthless. For an action film person like me, there were exactly two films in the “action” category. Good thing I had a couple of my favorites on my iPhone.

Basically, the plane (even though it’s an Airbus A350) was old. Just little things like shredded carpet, chipped tabletops, and an auxiliary engine that wouldn’t start, so they couldn’t turn on the AC until the big engines started up (that was kind of scary to hear). There was just other little stuff. None of this was enough to make me not fly SAS again, but it would be nice if they fixed the little things.

We did get off about half an hour late, and as I mentioned in my post on Sunday, what caused me the most anxiety was my plane change in Copenhagen. I had a close connection to start with, and since I had to go through EES for the first time (which meant being photographed and fingerprinted), I was really worried when we landed about half an hour late. Originally, I had one hour and forty-five minutes between flights, but by the time I got off the plane (I was literally the first person off), I was down to about an hour. So when I got to the line for EES, I asked the airport personnel monitoring the line what my time frame was. He told me, “About two hours.” He asked me when my next flight was, and when I said 55 minutes, he beckoned me to a different line, and I was through EES in less than 10 minutes. Talk about a happy guy!

I got on my Brussels flight in plenty of time, but I had to check my carry-on because they are very strict about allowing only one. They kept making the usual announcement that the flight was full and that extra bags needed to be checked. They even went so far as to say that if you didn’t check your bag and they had to force you, you would be charged for it, but not if you gave it to them willingly. What ticked me off was that the flight was half empty. The overhead bin above my row had my camera bag in it and NOTHING ELSE! So why did I have to check my bag?

Got into Brussels, and sure enough, it was beyond easy to stay in the airport and just take an elevator down three floors from baggage claim to the train station. I used the prepaid ticket I had purchased to jump on the train to Bruges.

I got to the hotel by 4:30, took a one-hour nap, had a quick shower and felt almost as good as new, then headed off to dinner with the entire group (including spouses of those who brought them). They’re a really nice group of people from all over. We have a married couple from the UK, one from Australia, quite a few from the Midwest, and four guys named Bob. I am the only one from anywhere west of Iowa or Indiana (whichever is further west), which really surprised me. Scott, our instructor, is from Tampa and Memo, his able assistant, lives in Canada. We even have a local guide who takes care of logistics, whose name is Andy. He is a Montreal Canadian married to a Bruges girl.

That about covers day two. After dinner, we met in a conference room to discuss the very long day I am experiencing today, but more about that in the next post. And some of my new photos.

“Tired, tired with nothing, tired with everything, tired with the world’s weight he had never chosen to bear.” — F. Scott Fitzgerald

Air to Get Me There

Today is the start of my solo trip. I am sitting in the dark in our living room at 5:15 am as I write this. I have been up since 3:15, and that’s been my plan all week: to slowly shift my internal time from Redmond to Brugge. My flight is at 3:55 this afternoon, so I won’t even be leaving the house until 10:30. Lots to do between now and then. Ride my bike, clean the kitchen, play Strands and Connections with Kathleen, walk the dog, and pack the last few things and a little more.

I am both looking forward to and a little anxious about the trip. While I fully realize that when we travel, I do most of the planning, Kathleen keeps me on course. She’s the one I look to when I want to know if I have forgotten anything. She notices when I have dropped something. She takes care of me in many little ways. I won’t have that on this trip. And as I told her yesterday, I remember from my old days of traveling alone for business that the worst part of traveling alone is having to drag everything with you when you do anything, like using a restroom or going into an airport shop.

Change of venue. After finishing up and kissing Keeley goodbye, Kathleen took me into Redmond, where I caught the brand-new light rail train to SeaTac. I wasn’t going to make Kathleen drive me all the way to the airport (a 90-minute round trip) without the carpool lane on the way home. And it’s Labor Day weekend, and the traffic I saw from the train looked pretty bad.

To take the train, we drive about 10 miles from the house to downtown Redmond. From there, it costs me exactly $1 to cross Lake Washington, transfer in Seattle, and head south to the airport. What a deal. The ride was good, but I am glad I boarded at the end of the line, since there were both a Mariners game and a Huskies game in Seattle. By the time we reached the International District station, where I changed trains to head south, it was packed.

As I write this, I am at the airport. It’s fun to fly an airline with only one daily flight from SEA. No lines. I walked up to the desk, asked a question, and headed to the lounge near the gate. I am flying Scandinavian Airlines, also known as SAS. We have never flown with them before, but they were the best option I could find. I have also never flown from here to Copenhagen, but that’s SAS’s home, so that’s where we are going.

This air travel experience wasn’t my usual one. Because Scott announced the workshop in mid-June, I had to buy my ticket three and a half months before the flight. Normally, I buy refundable tickets 11 months out, check them constantly, and re-ticket if the price drops. I did a bunch of searches in June, and this was the best price and schedule I could find. There were just a couple of things I didn’t like. First, the workshop ends with a late lunch on Friday, and our hotel rooms are good until Saturday morning. So I planned to fly back to Copenhagen on one of the first morning flights and then fly home. But if I did that on Saturday, the price went up by $1,200 compared to flying on Sunday. So I booked a hotel room near Copenhagen Airport, and I will fly up from Brussels on Saturday, spend the night, and come home a week from today.

The other thing I was unhappy about was that SAS wanted $480 for me to pick my seat before the flight. I passed on that because I am in business class, and how bad can it be? There are no middle seats. When I checked in yesterday, I found that I had been assigned a single-side window seat in row nine. Since row nine is the last row in business class, I will get off first. I am thrilled with that because I have a one-hour and 45-minute connection in Copenhagen. That seems like a long time, but I haven’t been to Europe since the new EES (Entry/Exit System) was instituted, which means that when I land in Copenhagen, I have to go through that process, including having my fingerprints scanned and my picture taken. If you have not entered the EU since it started, you will need to do that next time you go.

I have read online that the Danish are better at this than most other countries because their airport is smaller and they are more efficient. We have a WhatsApp text thread, and the people who flew in today and yesterday flew nonstop into Brussels from the US East Coast. Their wait time for EES was more than two hours. I won’t have to do that at all because I will have cleared it all in Denmark.

I really don’t want to miss my Brussels flight because we have a class dinner tomorrow night at 6:30 to kick off the class, and I would hate to miss it. After I land in Brussels, I have to take a train for about 70 minutes to Bruges. (BTW: It has been determined that it can be spelled Bruges or Brugges. I will try to stick to Bruges because my Mac has a limited number of Gs.) I already have my train ticket, and the station is on the airport’s lower level, so I should be OK.

I will have a full report for you tomorrow on how the flights went, maybe with pictures, since I have never flown SAS before. Their business class looks very nice in all the videos I’ve seen on YouTube. It will also be my first time flying the Airbus A350 (the equivalent of the 787), and I love flying on a new plane and a new airline. Always something to report on.

You can’t buy happiness, but you can buy plane tickets, which is kind of the same thing.”  —Rick Steves

On the road again…this time all by myself

Way back in 2002, Kathleen and I took our first international trip. To celebrate turning 50, we took a two-week trip to Italy. Before that journey, I had never been outside the United States, except for a short weekend trip to Canada for our first anniversary. Since then, we have visited so many places together (54 different countries, more than half the US, lots of Canada) that it seems strange to me that this coming Sunday, I will fly to Europe by myself. Kathleen and Keeley will hold down the fort here at home while I attend a photography workshop in Bruges, Belgium. This is something that I’ve wanted to do for years.

If you follow this blog, you know that I love to take photos. I like to think I am fairly good at it. Photography and processing the photos that I take is my favorite hobby, and the times I have spent wandering the streets of the world with a camera in my hand, creating my “art,” are some of my fondest memories. In the past few years, though, I have felt like my photographic vision is stuck. Africa in 2025 helped unstick it a little, but I need to move forward. I took my favorite photo in 2020. Time to take another. This brings me to my impending trip.

I’ve followed a particular photography/Photoshop guru for years. His name is Scott Kelby. He owns a company called KelbyOne, which is fairly well known in photographic circles. I have taken several of his Photoshop classes, some online and some in group settings with more than a couple hundred people in the room (this workshop has a maximum enrollment of 12). I always learned a lot, and his teaching style works for me. For years, he has offered small, hands-on workshops worldwide to improve your photography and post-processing. That’s right up my alley—travel and photography—two of my favorite things. Sadly, I’ve never been able to fit them into our schedule or budget. Plus, Kathleen and I still had so many places we wanted to go together that it just wasn’t a high priority. The thought of traveling without my travel partner was kind of unthinkable.

But Kathleen has known for a while that I would love to attend one of these workshops. She’s always told me to just go ahead and do one, and now we are OK on the money side; it’s just about fitting it into our schedules. Before I retired, I thought life would be simpler and more peaceful, but now it seems like I am even busier than I was when I was working. But when this one was announced and it fit into our schedule, I really thought about it. I was still torn between the cost and being gone for a week. But we discussed it, and she just kept telling me to “Go!!” So, I am going.

While we were on our Alaskan cruise, Scott announced another workshop, this one in Bruges, Belgium. I hemmed and hawed about it for a few days, and finally Kathleen told me again, “GO!” So I registered for the class, and as soon as we got back, I found the airfare (more about finding last-minute—under nine weeks—airfare to Europe, during these days of high jet fuel prices in my next post) and then, after I had the entire trip planned (about three days later), I got a little distracted by my cardiac health.

I won’t go into the entire story, but suffice it to say we have had a “fun” couple of months that included two Urgent Care visits, a ride in an ambulance with lights and sirens, so many medical tests I can’t count them, lots of pills to take and a procedure to shock my heart back into a normal rhythm. So much fun. But the good news is that I am back to feeling like my old self, and the doctor said I can go, even though I may have to have another procedure when I get back. For now, I feel great.

At this point, some of you may be asking, “Why isn’t Kathleen going with you?” Well, because she isn’t a photographer. And this is truly a photographic WORKshop. The schedule starts each day around 4:30 am, when the class of 12 meets to go out and shoot during the “Golden Hour,” when the light is best. Then they head back to the hotel for breakfast, then to the computer lab for the rest of the morning to process the photos they took earlier. After lunch, there are a few free hours to explore…or nap. Then as the day closes, it’s back out to shoot the evening “Golden Hour.” We finish up each night around 9:00 and drop into bed, exhausted. If Kathleen joined me on this trip, she would basically have me waking her up at 4:30 when I got up to go out shooting, and then she would just sit in the hotel and read, browse the web and do all the stuff she does at home, but in a foreign country in what would probably be an uncomfortable chair. So she had decided to stay here, do all that in her comfy chair, sleep in her own bed and take care of Keeley while I am gone from Sunday to Sunday.

This post is your notification that I am off on what I hope will be a very rewarding and exhausting trip that will hopefully give you some great photos of Bruges, Ghent and Brussels. I will do my best to post every day, but it may be just some of the best photos I take, with less text. As you can see from the daily schedule I described, it may be hard to fit in much writing. I do have a day and a half of travel to get home at the end of the week, so maybe that’s when I can catch up. 

In the meantime, follow along and see if my photography gets better or just changes, hopefully for the better. PS: I didn’t take the photo at the top of this post. I “borrowed” it. More about the flight this coming weekend. 

“You don’t take a photograph; you make it.”—Ansel Adams

Day 7—Disembarkation and Rounding It All Up

I guess before I round up the entire trip, I need to mention disembarkation. It, like embarkation, was one of our best ever. Because we were in a suite, we didn’t have to wait for a luggage announcement. We finished breakfast, took our carry-on bags to the Retreat Lounge, and when the Concierges told us we could go, we just walked off (Kathleen was wheeled off). We got our luggage (if you need a porter, find one before you get your luggage, as they are few and far between in the check-out area; they are all elsewhere in the check-in area). We were in our van driving away at 9:00 am, back in Chilliwack by 10:15, and on our way to Redmond by 10:30. Perfect. We could easily have made a flight by noon at YVR, and so could you, especially if you walked off with all your luggage, which many people did.

Now, on to the final review. Where to begin? And how do I not forget something? Here’s my final report, and it’s a bit disjointed, so it jumps all over the place. To organize it, let’s divide this up into three ratings—the good, the bad, and the ugly. Or four ways, with the fourth choice being fine, since it was “just fine.”

Most of this cruise was “fine.”

Food

Food was fine but uneven. We ate at Luminae, the buffet (once), The Retreat Sundeck, The Sunset Park Cafe, Trattoria Rossa and Murano. Here are some quick comments about them all.

Luminae: We ate 90% of our meals here—breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Breakfast was usually outstanding—I don’t think I had a bad one. Highlights included discovering things that really weren’t on the menu. Well, they were on the menu, but you have to make a small change.

For example, I tried the Eggs in Purgatory on day one. This is a dish with some of the best tomato sauce I have ever had, topped with five quail eggs cooked sunny-side up. It was great, but the quail eggs were too underdone for me. So the next morning (and a couple of mornings after), I ordered a small omelet with a side of that tomato sauce, which I topped it with. Delish! Other favorites were the Eggs Benedict, the frosted croissant (although it was tough to eat and/or cut, and some wonderful fresh-squeezed OJ. If you are in Luminae and like good coffee as we do (we are from Seattle), then skip the coffee and order an Americano or latte. They take a little time to make, but they are worth it.

Lunch was fine… except for one incredible sandwich I mentioned on our first sea day. The rest of the lunches we had there were just not that special. But I would drive 100 miles for that sandwich. It’s a destination in itself.

Dinner was barely fine and inconsistent. And it definitely did NOT pass the Steve Test. If it were near me here in Washington, I doubt I would ever have dinner there again. The chef had a real problem with meat. He could not figure it out. He served some great-looking cuts of meat with absolutely no taste. His prime rib was a huge cube of meat, not your normal, as was one of his steaks. I got to try the steak, and it was completely tasteless. His lamb loin was the same way. Just big hunks of meat. Nothing really special.

Hot Tip: We didn’t realize until the third day that we could order off the Main Dining Room menu at any meal when our new friends Richard and Randy let us in on the fact. From that point on, we asked for that menu at every meal, and at least one or two people at the table ordered off it.

Other Lunches: Our first lunch was at the Sunset Park Cafe, and it was excellent. They served sandwiches, salads, and desserts. They also bake warm cookies every afternoon around 3:00, but no one in our group who tried them was impressed.

We also had lunch at the buffet just once. We might have tried it a little more often, but the place was so slammed that there was hardly ever an open table. The food I had on the one day we ate there was very good. I just had a hard time deciding what to get. Once I had settled on a Mediterranean lunch (hummus, dolma, etc.) I was fine.

Huge rant here: Something needs to be done about people who have finished their lunch in the buffet, just sitting at tables and in many cases, just staring at their phones. There were even people I saw on two occasions who finished eating, put their dishes on a nearby counter, and started playing cards… while others wandered around looking for tables with food in their hands. That has to stop. All it would take would be for an assistant maitre’d to walk around and ask folks to limit their use of the tables to when they were eating.

I previously wrote about our lunch on the Retreat Deck. Not my favorite by a long shot. Cold food brought from a kitchen too far away. Nothing is worse to eat cold than French fries. They just become conduits of ketchup.

Our two most outstanding meals were at specialty restaurants. Our first night dinner at Trattoria Rossa was a wonderful experience and set the bar for the disappointing week we had at Luminae. The restaurant is easily the best on Solstice right now (at least for my tastes). A massive A+ on the Steve Test. This place (if here in Redmond) could become our go-to venue for dinner. WOW! Just delicious. And, oh, those cannolis.

Our last night’s dinner in Murano was almost as good. The food is fancier than I prefer, but I did have an amazing piece of venison, Celebrity’s signature soufflĂ©s (goat cheese appetizer and Grand Marnier for dessert) and everything else that goes with fine French dining.

That said, I had my only letdown in service that night. The sommelier didn’t like me for some reason. He didn’t like Kathleen either. Four of the six of us were drinking wine by the glass. Judy had white, Cathy had champagne, and Kathleen and I were drinking red. THREE different times, the man refilled their glasses and skipped ours. I did my best to catch his eye, coughed, etc. I even asked (one time, after refilling their glasses) if we could get some as well. When I got my venison (which would have gone wonderfully with the cabernet I was drinking), not a single server could be found. I basically ate a really great piece of red meat with water. And then, when he showed up just as the plates were being removed to ask me if I wanted more wine, I told him, “Yes, I did want more wine, WITH MY ENTRÉE.” He acted like he had no idea what I was talking about.

Service

That entire incident brings me to the best thing about any Celebrity cruise, since we went on our first one in November of 2004—the service. We have been on seven different cruise lines, and I have never had service like I have every time I board a Celebrity ship. If everything else onboard was as good as the service, we would never sail with any other cruise line. From the moment we met Melissa in The Retreat waiting area until the second we stepped off the ship, the sommelier in Murano was the only Celebrity crew member who didn’t make me feel incredibly special and that they were truly happy with their jobs.

I want to mention a few that knocked it out of the park, so if you cruise with them, you will know that you are getting the best people at that job.

Our room attendant, Putu, was not only great at his job but truly a great guy who would always ask when we saw him in the halls (and we saw him a lot) if there was anything we needed.

The three Retreat Concierges (MMR=Melissa, Melody, and Rossana) were awesome, fun, and always smiling. They met us as we came aboard and were among the last to see us off. Make sure to tell them we miss them when you see them in the Retreat Lounge.

Of course, the amazing Hilario, our butler, will never be forgotten. He made this trip. And if you are in a suite, make sure you have downloaded the WhatsApp app on your phone before you go. When he met with us on the first day, he added himself to our contact lists, so we could WhatsApp him whenever we needed something. It was amazing how fast he would reply and then follow up in minutes. He also seemed to be everywhere on the ship. I actually think he may have a twin brother. It would not have been the cruise it was without Hilario. And I should say he is overworked because he has far too many staterooms to cover, but he does it magnificently.

Everyone in Luminae was great to us. Except for one person, and she wasn’t just great…she was wonderful. Over our 20+ years of sailing with X, we have been so well taken care of by everyone, but one night I remarked to the Mates that, in that time and across those 24 Celebrity cruises (actually in all 43 of our total cruises), there are certain crew members we will remember forever. Our first bar waiter on the Infinity, Eliseo. The OG Martini Bar bartender, Sudi from Bali. Marta, a wonderful server in multiple restaurants on Century and Galaxy. Christian, who was the assistant maĂ®tre d’ at Infinity’s United States specialty restaurant. Main Dining Room Asst. maĂ®tre d’ Jayson, from Africa, whom we sailed with three times, who always remembered us, shared his outside life with us and took such good care of us. The incredible Olexi from Ukraine, who was the greatest bartender of our cruising lives, greeted us like family every time he saw us, and made me fabulous, one-of-a-kind cocktails.

All of these people live in my travel memories, as if we were with them yesterday. And now there’s Mary. Mary does the “scut work” in Luminae. She pours the coffee, brings around the bread and pastries, and clears the tables, all while being one of the most effervescent people I have ever met. A beautiful smile is always on her face, a word or sometimes a song for us, and so much more. She is one of those people you just love from the moment you meet her. Mary will not be in that job for long. She is too good. I can see her as a Retreat Concierge or maybe even the Hotel Manager one day. She is that good. She makes you feel like a Celebrity and will now join our ranks of most memorable people who have taken such good care of us over the years.

No matter what I might say about the cruise line I used to love more than any other, their service and especially their people are and have always been the best.

General overall impressions

Solstice Refurb: The public areas they redid were done wonderfully. The Sunset Park area is so much better than the Glass Show, though I do miss the Lawn Club Grille. I didn’t get to see a show in the Boulevard Lounge or play games in The Parlor—too many people. But the improvements are much better than what was there before—Quasar and some room they used for lectures, the name of which I don’t remember. Both were a waste, and that entire area on deck four is fully revitalized. I can’t speak to the improvements to The Retreat Deck because we have never stayed in a suite on an S-class ship before, but it is very nice. The Retreat Lounge, formerly Michael’s Club, has been vastly improved with better lighting and furnishings. All in all, the public areas have improved significantly.

That said, the staterooms saw little to no improvement. It is almost criminal in today’s world that there are only two plugs in an entire stateroom. TWO! Three, if you count the EU plug. What is up with that? There are USB plugs that I think Bob discovered under the night lights by the bed, but they don’t work. No power to them. Be aware that inside the EU plug there are two USB-C plugs. You have to look for them, but they are there. But anyone who needed a CPAP machine had an extension cord stretched across the room that had to be taped down. That’s nuts. Kathleen and I charge at least three devices each, and if you add in my Mac and my camera’s battery charger, it was really fun (NOT) swapping plugs and making sure everything was charging.

The couch in our stateroom needs replacing, as sitting at either end leaves you fighting to keep from sagging toward the center. It’s just old. Beds were OK. I kind of found the furnishings just blah, besides being old. The Suite seemed darker to me than our verandah staterooms on Viking or Celebrity’s own Flora.

The bathroom is the worst part of the stateroom. When I compare it to our stateroom bathroom on Celebrity’s Flora or any Viking Ocean ship, it comes up wanting. The shower is in a tub, and the tub is raised so high that I had to bend over to use it. If you are over six feet tall, you will have to bend over during every shower. I will say there was plenty of storage in the bathroom, but that didn’t make up for the short shower. Who uses a tub on a cruise ship? It’s a tiny tub.

At least we had plenty of hot water, but I can’t say the same for our friends on the ship’s port side. Our buddy Bob’s suite, almost exactly across the ship from ours, had major hot water problems. When you get a suite, you deserve hot water. To X’s credit, after Bob and Judy endured several days of no hot water in the evenings, they worked hard to fix it. When they couldn’t, for about 4 days, they presented them with future cruise certificates for $1000 US. I am impressed they made things right. Well done, Celebrity.

On an entirely different note, there is one thing we all wish Celebrity would put a stop to. It’s a practice that has been around for years, and it could easily be taken care of with one directive from Celebrity HQ. Crew members should stop begging for ratings. We had our Luminae waiter, our bartenders, our bar waiters in the Retreat Lounge, and the servers in Murano all asking us to give them 10s on the post-cruise survey. When they do that, they automatically get 9s. Their service is outstanding, and I would normally give them all 10s (on the service, not the food), but the begging has to stop. None of our favorite people mentioned above asked us for any rating whatsoever, and we were happy to give them a stack of 10s.

Speaking of the post-cruise survey, this is what I told X when they asked why I said I would no longer be sailing with them and that I would not recommend them to friends and family:

Your ships are too big; we have outgrown you, and you have outgrown us. Too many kids, too many people. We need smaller, quieter ships now that we are older. Apparently, you agree with us, as you no longer market to our age group, who have supported you throughout our cruising lives. I fully realize this is because we will soon stop cruising. But in the meantime, we will continue to cruise. While we believe you still have the best mid-range cruising product, I can sail on a Viking ship for the price of a suite and enjoy myself a lot more. Get rid of the casino, photo gallery, art auctions, and humans under 18, and we might come back. But that’s doubtful. We will miss your people. Your crews have always served us above and beyond any other cruise line, and you treat them well. Kudos. We will still recommend X to people from 40 to 60 who are looking for a great cruise experience at a moderate price, don’t mind paying for many things that are free on other, more expensive lines, and are willing to put up with things we would rather be replaced with places we would prefer to use.

Oh, one last thing. I have complained a lot about how crowded every place on the ship is, and I have been roundly scolded on Cruise Critic because of it. They said that this is not X’s fault that their cruises are so popular. But that’s not my quibble with X. My problem is that Celebrity keeps adding staterooms every time they do any kind of refit. Solstice has increased by more than 54 new staterooms, which, when fully booked, means there were 108 new passengers onboard. They have done the same with the M-class ships and will undoubtedly do so on the rest of the S-class ships. Since they can’t make the ships bigger, this means they will become more crowded. Our experience at the buffet and Sunset Park proves that this has already happened. And that’s sad.

I hope you have enjoyed following along. Come join me on my next trip in early September when I travel by myself to a Scott Kelby Photography workshop in Belgium. The Martini Mates rode again, and we had an awesome time.

 

But at the laste, as every thing hath ende—Geoffrey Chaucer

Day 5-Juneau

We have been to Juneau on all 12 of our previous Alaskan cruises, so going back there would be pretty much the same for us. Most of those visits just involved getting off the ship and walking around downtown. Maybe we would take the cable car tram to the top of the mountain. (Sadly, that cable car is now closed due to an accident earlier in the season.) Maybe we would just stay on the ship. This morning was no exception. While Kathleen stayed on the ship, I got off and walked around. I wanted to send some postcards and needed stamps. I found a cute little shop that was also a contract post office with a really nice clerk. We chatted for a while, mailed my postcards, walked around, and took some photos (see them below). Then it was back on board for lunch before our one big excursion of the entire cruise.

But way back in 2007, when we were here with Mike, Carol, Bob and Jude, we went whale watching with a wonderful company called Harv and Marv. At that time, it was just the two guys with two boats, and it was a highly personalized whale watching experience.

We have told everyone this story, but I will quickly repeat it. On that whale-watching trip, we left the marina in their small boat (only six people) and headed out to see whales. About five miles out, just off an island with houses on the shore, we stopped. We saw a woman come out of one of the houses holding something small in her hands. She got into a kayak on the beach and paddled toward us. When she reached the boat, she handed Marv a small plastic container. We then learned that the woman was his wife and that she was bringing us freshly baked chocolate chip cookies. It has become a legend with us. That’s how you build a business. As a retired marketing person, that’s the best marketing you can do. We have told that story again and again, and when people hear it, they want to book with Harv and Marv.

So with all of us coming back to Alaska, we had to book another tour with Harv and Marv. Of course, they now have a bunch of boats, both big and small, and Harv or Marv no longer take you out; they have employees for that. And sadly, there are no more cookies. We were picked up just off the pier by one of their bus drivers (they now have multiple buses) and whisked north to the Auke Bay Marina, where we boarded our boat with our guide for the day, Jace. A very fine young man, and he knew his stuff, but it just wasn’t the same as sailing with the original guys.

If you have never been whale watching, as Mike pointed out while we were out in the boat, it is a lot like fishing. Most of it is just sitting around waiting for something to happen. Except, unlike fishing, when you whale watch, you have to keep looking everywhere for the tell-tale flume as they surface to exhale. Thank goodness they are air-breathing mammals, or humanity might not have a clue they were down there.

So that’s what we did. We drove around and looked. And then there’s the excitement when you find them (or the disappointment when you’re faked out by the wake of another boat). Then you race to get closer (boats are only allowed to be no closer than 100 yards from the whales), but by the time you get there, they’ve gone under again. The next time they come up, they could be a good quarter mile away. Sometimes you get lucky, and they come up closer to your boat, so you get to take pictures.

Here’s the crazy part. Obviously, whales are HUGE creatures, but unless you get incredibly lucky enough to see one breach almost completely out of the water, all you ever see is their backs and their tails. I shot more than 600 photos while we were out looking, and in the photos below, you will probably see only six to eight of the whales—mostly tails. I take that many because I set my Nikon to the highest repeat settings, so when I press the shutter, I get about 20 photos a second (or it seems like it’s that many), and I get a ton of the exact same photos of all the whales. In our years of taking Alaska cruises, I have never seen a breach, so if you like whale photos, below are some tails. It is exhilarating to see one, but when you think about it, it’s fairly anticlimactic.

We saw a couple of other things while we were out. First (and most surprisingly), we saw the sun come out. It was glorious and almost as rare in Alaska as seeing a whale breach. We also saw some sea lions sunning themselves on a buoy. I believe visiting that buoy is one of the highlights of every Harv and Marv excursion. It’s way out in the bay and usually has six or eight sea lions on it. I have photos from 2007 that match the ones I took this week, except these are in the sunshine.

After the sea lions, we headed back to the marina because we had to catch our ship, and Jace had to take out one last tour (he did four that day—Harv and Marv are doing very well). We had dinner, then it was off to bed.

I should mention one other thing about evenings. There are shows—we just don’t go to them. As regular readers of this blog know, we just went on a theater tour to Broadway last month and saw some amazing productions. After that, cruise ship shows just don’t do it for us. I usually will stay up for a comic, but that’s about it. We truly have become old fuddy-duddies. Which is OK. Mike always does a full report on every cruise, and he goes to all those shows, so when he publishes his report, he will have all that and much more (menus, additional ship photos, etc.). I will let you know when his report is up.

Of course, I have photos for you, and they are below. Don't forget: if you click the first shot, you can scroll through using your arrow keys or by swiping. That way, you can see the captions as well. And PLEASE... don't look at my photography on a phone. Please...

 

"We owe it to our children to be better stewards of the environment. The alternative? - a world without whales. It's too terrible to imagine." —Pierce Brosnan