Marching Around Madrid

by | Oct 15, 2024 | Uncategorized

So far on this trip, I have been a very frustrated photographer. It’s not that I haven’t been able to take any photos. On the contrary, I have taken more than 1,000. But what is frustrating is that I have been unable to do my early morning photo walks and get pictures when the light is at its best. Regular readers know I love to shoot during the “blue hour” and the “golden hour.” Well, those barely exist in Madrid or in all of Spain because of a little-known time anomaly. It seems that sometime in the past, the Spaniards were trying to make peace with the British and one of the things they did to show how much they loved all things British was put themselves in the same time zone as Great Britain when actually they should be about a time zone and a half further east. So, if you fly straight north from here, you would be in Warsaw, Poland, but the time here correlates to London. This means that sunrise today was around 8:30 am. That’s too late for me to be out shooting photos when we have to be heading our on tours at 9:00. Yesterday, I was about a mile away and thought it was still around 6:30, and it turned out to be 7:50, and I was supposed to meet the rest of the group for breakfast at 8:00. YIKES…so I walked really fast and barely made it back—only a little late. Let me toss in the early morning shots I did get right here. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…

After we finished the breakfast that I was late for; it was time to leave the hotel for a one-of-a-kind Madrid experience—churros and chocolate. We had heard (YouTube videos) that there were two places famous for their churros and the hot chocolate you dip them into. The oldest and most famous is Chocolatería San Ginés. I found it on my early morning walk, so I led the gang down to try out the churros dipped in what is pretty much melted chocolate. It was awesome. But on the way down, Kathleen’s knee and neuropathy started giving her problems, so she and I walked back up to the hotel (the nearest Uber or Bolt was 20 minutes away) while the rest of the group walked ahead to find our guide for the day.

Speaking of walking, I did a lot of walking yesterday. My Map My Walk/Run app shows that I walked more than ten miles. Some of my walking was for exercise and photography reasons, but we had also booked a walking tour of Madrid through a company called The Tour Guy.

The Tour Guy company is a tour broker who books tours with different companies worldwide to do tours in a particular place…in this case, Madrid. Mike had used them before in other locations. Those who have read my posts in the past, you know that I am a massive fan of Tours by Locals, but since Mike had booked with them before, we went with them. I made the booking because if you are booking with The Tour Guy for the first time, you get a discount.

Our tour was assigned to a company called Touring Pandas. Even though we got a local guide, I did some checking this morning and the tour company we were brokered out to is based in Korea. That in itself is interesting.

I say all this to preface that we had a good tour guide. Her name was Taylor, and she is from Newcastle, England. She spoke with a beautiful British accent and has lived in Madrid for four years. She knew all about the city and shared great tips with us for food and drink after the tour.

The two anchor spots of this tour (places you really want to see and learn more about) are the Royal Palace and the Prado Art Museum. So we started by walking around, catching fun and exciting parts of Madrid between our meeting spot in the Puerta Del Sol and our big morning stop, the Palace. Everything was great right up until that point.

Then, the big surprise. Taylor told us that after we got in (with our pre-paid tickets—buy yours before you go because otherwise, the wait is very long), we could rent audio guides that would take us through the entire Palace. Mike said, “Well, we won’t need those since you will give us a live tour.” Taylor said, “No, I don’t come in with you. I’ll leave you here to tour the Palace and then have lunch on your own. I will meet you in a park on the other side of Madrid at 3:00 pm. We will tour the park, and then I will take you to the Prado, where you have pre-reserved tickets, and you will tour The Prado on your own as well.” You could have knocked me over with a feather. I know Mike was surprised as well. We had paid for an eight-hour tour (it says that on our reservation), but this meant we were getting about a three-hour tour.

That’s different from what we were looking for. We wanted what we had the day before with Fernando in Toledo: a guide who was with us from the time we got out of our van until we finished at the end of the day, who took us into museums and cathedrals and didn’t just drop us off outside of them.

But when Taylor arrived on time, she told us a lot about the Plaza del Sol, where the tour started, and the Bear and Strawberry Tree statue where we met. Then we left the plaza and headed towards Plaza Mayor, The Mercado, the Basilica, and finally winding up at the Palace, where we had tickets to the tour that I mentioned above. At this point, I was feeling bad about Kathleen being stuck in the hotel all by herself, and I knew she wouldn’t want to go out to lunch alone, so I decided to buzz through the Palace fairly quickly and head back to the hotel to take her out to lunch somewhere near the hotel while the rest of the group took a leisurely stroll through on their tour. Here are my photos from the morning part of the tour and my zoom through the Palace (the photo at the top of this page is the Spanish throne room). Enjoy, and you know the drill.

I should say that it was INCREDIBLY difficult to buzz through the Palace because it has a lot of choke points where the thousands of Asian tour groups just seemed to stop to listen to their guide in their earpieces…but at least they had a guide.

After I finally got out of there, I was off to the hotel and surprised Kathleen by taking her to an Italian place just down the block from the hotel so she didn’t have to walk very far. We had a nice lunch, and then after I got her back to the hotel, I walked off to meet up with Taylor and the rest of the gang at El Retiro Park, which is Madrid’s answer to New York’s Central Park. It is truly a beautiful place, as I hope you will see in my photos. By the way, the weather yesterday was hit or miss. It started out OK, switched to cloudy and cool, the sun finally came out, and within 20 minutes, it was threatening rain again. Go figure.

When I got to El Retiro Park, Taylor walked us around, saying she would take us to the Prado and drop us off there. To be honest, at that point I had been up since 1:30 am, I had walked more than nine miles and I am not that big a fan of Spanish art. So I bid my farewells and walked my way back to the hotel. The other four of our group had a very nice time seeing the Prado and made it back in time for all of us to go out for tapas at another place down the street. They have excellent food and what has become a favorite drink, vermouth on the rocks with lemon. We are sitting on our bed at the hotel (after our day—today—in Segovia—more about that tomorrow), drinking two of them. Let’s finish up our day in Madrid with my afternoon photos. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…

That about did it for our day in Madrid. Today (I am writing this at about 8:00 pm on Tuesday), we were in Segovia, and it was AWESOME! We fly to Lisbon tomorrow to start our Viking portion of the trip tomorrow. More about all of that soon.

I never heard anyone say anything bad about Madrid.  —Antonio Ruddier

 

Madrid–Day 1: Soggy Start, Great Finish

by | Oct 12, 2024 | Food Experiences

We woke up and found everyone here! Yeah! It was fantastic to walk into the breakfast room downstairs in our hotel and see the whole gang. We hadn’t seen Jamie and Steve since they left for the airport in Norway in June, and we hadn’t seen Mike and Cathy since we sailed from Montreal to Miami a year ago this month.

I want to say right up front that the Hotel Preciados serves a fabulous breakfast. It’s just amazing. I could just eat the bread and the incredible jambon ham. Put that together with the outstanding coffee, and I was in breakfast heaven.

After we all got caught up and fed up, we decided what to do yesterday. Mike and I (as your tour planners) had decided to go light on day one since we would all be a little jet-lagged. The only thing we had scheduled was lunch at Botin Restaurant—the world’s oldest, continuously operating restaurant. Really. They have operated under the same family’s ownership since 1725. The building has been there since 1590 (Isn’t Europe glorious). Their other claim to fame is that the wood-burning ovens they use to make their signature roast suckling pig have never gone out during that entire time. This might be an excellent time to show you our food pics from yesterday (with captions, of course). It is OK to look at these on your phone because I took them with mine ?. This is all of them, from the few at breakfast to the incredible lunch to the tapas Mike, Cathy, and I had to finish off the day.

Once we were done with breakfast, there wasn’t much to do anyway as the skies had opened up, and the torrential downpour Mike and Cathy had experienced the day before while transitioning planes in Lisbon finally got to Madrid. It just poured!  So far, the only thing I have forgotten is a small waterproof bag I use to shield my camera when wet. So before lunch, I wandered off to find a Googled photo store to see if they had something to keep my camera dry. I never found an actual camera store, but I found just about everything else in a nine-story department store. I settled for some small draw-string trash bags that should do the job.

After that, it was almost time to head to lunch (which I have already described), so we did that. Most of the group walked the mile or so to Bodin, but with Kathleen’s bad knee, she and I decided to take an Uber. The only problem is that yesterday was a national holiday in Spain and there were parades, crowds and traffic jams everywhere. (MASSIVE PET PEEVE: The Uber app says the ride is five minutes away. The Uber driver who accepts rides that are actually 15 minutes away and not moving.) We waited for almost half an hour before we gave up, canceled the Uber and got a Bolt (European rideshare company) that was there to get us in two minutes. But we made it, and that is all that matters.

After lunch, we sent Kathleen back to the hotel in another Bolt (lots more of those, so I will be sticking with Bolt in Madrid), and the rest of us went off to walk around the city for a couple of hours. We started at Plaza Mayor, which looked like it would have been very cool if there hadn’t been a big stage for a concert that afternoon. Hopefully, it will be gone when we return to our Madrid walking tour on Monday. After that, we walked down to the Madrid cathedral and palace. And, of course, on this walk, I took a lot of photos, so here they are. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…

 

After our walk back, I reviewed photos until Mike and Cathy asked if we wanted to go out for tapas and a drink. Kathleen and Jamie decided they were done for the day, but the rest of us headed out and found a cool tapas place about a block away. Steve decided he was just too tired and not hungry enough, so he headed back. Mike, Cathy, and I had a marvelous time trying their food, and we drank a glass of Madrid’s favorite drink, vermouth. Photos of the food are above in the food gallery. After the tapas, Mike and Cathy went out to explore. On the other hand, I returned to the room to check in on Kathleen, changed into my walking stuff, and headed out to take photos. I wanted to get a sunset shot of the Temple of Debod. This is a complete Egyptian temple (built in the second century BC) that the Egyptian government gave as a gift to the city of Madrid to save it from being submerged when they built the Aswan dam in the 1960s. It was truly beautiful. On the way there and back, I got some photos I am very happy with. Here’s the place where you can check them out. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…

I want to make one last point about Madrid (and most other European cities we have visited). These cities are ALIVE! At night the populace is outdoors, walking around, eating, drinking, listening to music on the street…just living. In all our travels, I have found nowhere like this in the US except New York City and maybe Las Vegas. And the living goes on late. Last night was Saturday and we could hear crowds in the street below our hotel still going strong at 1:00 am. It’s phenomenal. Of course, they don’t eat dinner until 10:00 pm, so they have to stay up that late to digest their food ?.

Madrid is what I call home, but also the States.  —Penelope Cruz

A Tale of Six Flyers

by | Oct 12, 2024 | Air travel

This is just a quick note this morning because I have some free time while Kathleen sleeps in. I am writing this in a small sitting area on our floor at the Hotel Preciado in downtown Madrid. Yesterday was an interesting flying day for the six of us, coming from different directions.

First, we are all on a group text we started about three months ago to plan and discuss tours and other stuff. And on flight days, it gets hectic. With Mike and Cathy flying out of Miami and Hurricane Milton hitting to the north of them, our group text got a lot busier, and we talked about flights a lot earlier than usual. Yesterday alone, we sent each other 297 texts between 5:15 AM Pacific time Thursday and 11:52 PM Pacific time Friday. I know. I just counted them.

We spent the first half of the day tracking our flights and planes. We used various websites and apps to see how our flight was doing and where the aircraft that would be flying our flight was at the time. If you have yet to use one of these websites, it’s worth it if you’re worried about missing connections or want to know when you should be able to get going.

Mike and Cathy started the day with their incoming flight being two hours late. On FlightAware, you can see your flight and its predicted departure time, but they also have a feature that you can click that says, “Where is my plane?” That shows you where the plane is that the airline has scheduled you to fly on. In Mike’s case, he tracked the plane and found it was two hours late leaving Lisbon (they were flying on TAP Air). This did not present a real problem for them as they were connecting through Lisbon, and if they missed their connection, they had a plethora (I love using that word) of choices on TAP to make the quick jump to Madrid. The end of their journey to Madrid got them in while we were in London, and Steve and Jamie were in Frankfurt.

Steve and Jamie, coming from LAX on Lufthansa, saw that their flight would be an hour late. This made things a little dicey for them as they were flying LAX to Frankfurt and had only about 90 minutes between their flights. They were flying the furthest as well because they were coming from Southern California, going east of Madrid and then coming back west and south. Things really went south for them when they taxied out for takeoff at LAX and had to return to the gate due to a medical emergency on board. BTW: Did you know that when they remove someone from the plane for medical reasons, they have to search the cargo hold to find their checked luggage and get it off as well? I can’t even imagine crawling into the cargo hold of a 747, trying to find just one or two bags.

I just wanted you to see a shot of our texting. At this point, Mike and Cathy are in Lisbon, and Steve and Jamie just missed their connection in Frankfurt. We were in the air about to land at Heathrow.

When they finally arrived in Frankfurt (I am sure that Steve will comment if I mess any of this up—I am just working off our texts), it looked like they would make it to their connecting flight. They got to the gate of the connecting flight with five minutes to spare, but the plane had already closed the doors, and that was it.

The last we heard from them was that they had just boarded their flight from Frankfurt to Madrid. Mike and Cathy had just finished dinner and were headed to bed in Madrid, and we had just landed in Madrid. It is 7:45 am here in Madrid as I write this, and we are still not 100% sure they made it. But I am pretty sure they did since we would have had a text to the group if they hadn’t.

We were flying from Seattle to Madrid via London Heathrow. Our flight left at the latest. British Air has two flights a day from Seattle to London Heathrow, one in the afternoon around 2:00 and the other leaves at 7:45 in the evening. We last did the late one a while ago, but it worked better this time. But, strangely, you have your entire day before you even think about going to the airport. I got up, had a leisurely breakfast, drove into downtown Redmond for my weekly injection, walked six miles through Marymoor Park, went home, and had lunch with Kathleen. Then she went off to get her haircut, and I cleaned the kitchen and vacuumed the house. We had waited to shower until that afternoon because we knew it would be our last for probably 48 hours or so. We were finally picked up by our Welcome Pickups driver for our trip to SEA at 3:30. I know that’s early, but we like to be at the airport for an international flight at least three hours early. Due to a Seahawks game in Seattle on Thursday night, the traffic was HORRENDOUS, and our usual 45-minute drive to the airport turned into 90 minutes, but we did make it.

I have kept this a secret from our group text, but it must come out eventually. While Mike and Cathy were slightly inconvenienced and Steve and Jamie had massive scheduling problems, we had what might have been our best flying day ever. And a lot of it was in our control.

We (OK, I) had decided that since we were flying at around 8:00 p.m., I would stay on my usual schedule as much as possible. That meant that I would not eat dinner on the plane. You pay for Business Class, so you should at least get to eat the meal.  So we ate dinner in the Business Class lounge at SeaTac. It was snacky-type food, but they had a nice salad bar, some good sandwiches…and cold water. You see, another thing I had decided not to do was drink alcohol on this flight. I have been reading a lot on the best ways to avoid jetlag, and one of the biggies is no booze. We ate dinner at our usual time (around 5:30) and boarded at 7:45. I had a very nice mocktail and told the flight attendant I was skipping dinner to wake me for breakfast, and I got out my Kindle and started reading my current book. Please note that I did not turn on the plane’s entertainment system. I knew that if I did, I would find a movie or TV show I would get hooked on, and that would prevent me from sleeping.

And it worked. I reclined the seat to flat, pulled on a blanket, read my book until I felt tired, pulled on the provided eye mask and went to sleep. The next thing I remember was six or seven hours later when the flight attendant woke me for breakfast. I got to sleep for a good six hours, and that’s about as much as I usually sleep at home. Kathleen didn’t quite do as well, but she did get some sleep.

Another thing that was different on this trip is that due to Kathleen injuring her knee (she is going to physical therapy) and the size of the airports we would be traversing, I asked British for a wheelchair for her. She didn’t need it (and we didn’t use it) at SEA, but it was a godsend once we got to Heathrow. Moving through any airport can be a pain, but it is a total slog at Heathrow. On the plane, we were met by a very lovely young lady who got Kathleen off the plane and up to the gate, where she was transferred to a cart-type conveyance that took her and six other wheelchair flyers to passport control. I got to walk an entirely different route to meet up with her at the other end of the trip through the airport just before we got to passport control. The only hold-up was that we had to stand (Kathleen sat) through the regular security line, but once we were through that, we were dropped off in the Business Class lounge for our terminal. Before he left, our wheelchair attendant wrote down our table number in the lounge so they would send someone with the chair to that table when it was time for our next flight (to Madrid). That lovely person came and got us and took us to the plane, where we were the first people on board.

When we got to Madrid, the experience was truly unusual. As we were about to deplane, the flight attendant motioned us to wait in the first row of seats. A few minutes later, they opened the door on the other side of the plane, and there was a lift truck with ten seats in it pulled up right to the plane. We got on (with another party needing assistance). They lowered us to the ground and drove us about 100 yards to a door where we were met by another man with a wheelchair who took us through a bunch of doors to another place where we could get a different attendant. Then we went through passport control and a short walk again and got into another van. That van took us on a 20-minute ride around the airport, driving all over the runways, behind planes up and down tunnels. If you had asked me to find that route again, I could not have done it in a hundred years.

But the end was great. Our luggage made it, our driver waited, and after a 40-minute drive, we were at our hotel in downtown Madrid.

I took a break there for breakfast, and everyone was there! We all made it. Now for a leisurely day in Madrid. Lunch will be at Boudin, the world’s oldest restaurant. I will let you know how it is tomorrow.

I hate everything about airports, from getting there to taking off.  —Honor Blackman (the woman who played Pussy Galore in Goldfinger)

Back to Europe next week…

by | Oct 3, 2024 | Uncategorized

It’s been a while, but I wanted to let you know to get ready for a plethora of posts as we leave for Europe a week from today. I know—we are going to Europe again. In our defense, when we were there in June, we were just up north in Scotland, England and Norway. This time, we will be heading south to Spain and Portugal.

Last October, we sailed on Oceania’s Vista from Montreal to Miami. On that trip, we were joined by our good friends Mike and Cathy from Wellington, Florida, my brother Steve and his wonderful bride Jamie from San Juan Capistrano, California and our good buddy Jocelyn Hartwell from Chelan, Washington. Sadly, Jocelyn won’t be joining us for this adventure, but the six of us (Mike, Cathy, Steve, Jamie, Kathleen and I) will all be back together. (Just an aside, Mike and I were talking about three months ago that we should always vacation together in October, so next year, we are cruising the Columbia River, and in October 2026, we will cruise the Great Lakes.)

As I mentioned, a week from tonight, we will board British Airways flight 48 from here in Seattle, non-stop to London Heathrow, where we will have about three and a half hours to either rush or relax (depending on how late our flight from Seattle is) before we head south to Madrid, Spain. Although we have been to Spain before, all our visits have been on the Mediterranean coast, where we have visited Tarragona, Barcelona, Málaga and Valencia. But this will be our first time in Spain’s capital.

We are in Madrid from October 11 until the 16th. During our stay, besides seeing Madrid, we will go on day trips to Segovia and Toledo. Since we are traveling with the king of shore excursions and tours, Mike Preisman, we will be on some of the best tours in all of the Iberian peninsula.

After five full days in Madrid, we will catch a plane to hop over the mountains to Lisbon, Portugal. From the time we land there and for the next ten days, we will fully enter the world of Viking River Cruises. We will spend two nights in Lisbon and then board a “luxury motor coach” for a ride north to Portugal’s second city, Porto, where we will board the Viking Torgil for a six-night cruise up and then back down the Douro River. From the riverboat, we will do excursions to Salamanca, Spain, as well as Regua, Barca d’Alva, Pinhão and Lamego, Portugal. (See the map above–you can click on it to enlarge it) We are sure to have fun, food and a great time!

After we are off the cruise in Porto, we are taking a private airporter-type coach south and back to Lisbon, where we will spend another four days at one of our favorite hotels—Hotel Portugal (really original name ?). On the 29th, we will board a flight back up to London Heathrow, where we will spend the night at an airport hotel before flying home the next day. So this means we are gone from the 10th to the 30th! It will not be quite as long as last June, but it will still be long enough for us to have a great time.

This post tells you only a bit because I plan to blog as often as possible. So get ready for another bunch of posts with photos. Of course, as always, my posts will be totally dependent on Wi-Fi. That means good coverage when we are in hotels and, who knows, what we will get on the boat.

In Spain, the dead are more alive than the dead of any other country in the world.  —Federico Garcia Lorca