by Jim Bellomo | Dec 27, 2024 | Food Experiences
Every year, right about now, I see all these Top Ten of 2024 lists popping up around the interwebs. A few years ago, I decided to get into the act. At first, I did my “Top Ten Things That Happened” that year as well as my “Top Five Things I Ate,” and of course, my “Top Ten Photos” I took. For the last two years, it’s been just the photos, and that’s what I am going to do for 2024 as well.
This does not mean that there were not ten great experiences or five great meals; it just means that I didn’t take photos of all of them, and I know you are all about the pictures. If I were to list The Top Ten places We Visited in 2024, they would include:
- Scotland (especially the Isle of Skye and shooting the puffins on Lunga).
- Norway (especially Geiranger Fjord and Tromsô).
- Portugal (especially the Douro, Cascais, Sintra and Lisbon).
- England (especially seeing Paul and Gail in Leeds and doing the Ted Lasso tour in Richmond).
- Spain (especially our days in Toledo and Segovia).
- Olympia, Washington (because our kids live there).
- Chilliwack, British Columbia (because our best buddies live there)
- Vancouver (because we celebrated our 25th anniversary there with dinner at CinCin, one of our favorite places to eat).
- Pacific Beach, Washington (because we spent four days with the kids there during our annual beach trip).
- Alameda, California (because we had to be in the Bay Area to settle Kathleen’s mother and brother’s estates, and there are two great restaurants and two great attorneys there.).
And if I had to name my Five Best Bites of 2024, it would have to go in this order:
- Venison stew at Ardnamurchan restaurant in Glasgow, Scotland.
- Grilled chicken and french fries in an unnamed restaurant in Cascais, Portugal.
- Pickled walnuts at The View restaurant in Portree, Scotland.
- The appetizer plate (especially the chicken) at Banca di Roma in Glasgow, Scotland.
- A toss-up between the lemon tortellini at Rancho Capistrano Winery in San Juan Capistrano, California or the tater tots at Bureau 510 in Alameda, California.
See, I am just going to do my Top Ten Photos. Wait! What have I done? I guess you will have to come back in the next few days (before we get to 2025) to see the photos. Keep an eye out.
And now it’s time for our nightly Top Ten… David Letterman
by Jim Bellomo | Nov 5, 2024 | Uncategorized
Whew! We are home, but to be honest, I am still having a hard time remembering what day it is. Hopefully, I will get over that soon. Jet lag is pretty much over, but real life is intruding into my travel life. It’s so much fun (sarcasm here) getting home to more than 200 emails I had been just throwing into a folder in Mail to be read when we were home. Now, I have to read them and respond to them. I want to go on vacation again.
Our trip home was pretty decent. The airports got the wheelchair stuff for Kathleen correct this time. British Airways surprised us with two decent Indian meals on two flights. We stayed overnight at a Terminal 5 hotel (Sofitel) and found that we liked the Terminal 3 hotel (Hilton Garden Inn) we had stayed in last June a lot better. Our flight was on time, our luggage showed up quickly, we looked at the camera in passport control, and we were out of there in less than 15 minutes from when we got off the plane. Our Welcome Pickups guy grabbed us, and with the light traffic after 7:00, we were home in no time. Kathleen was off to bed. I got the mail, watched the Dodgers win the World Series and then hit the hay. A good end to a great trip.
Madrid
Going back to the very beginning, we liked Madrid a lot. We stayed at the Hotel Preciados in downtown. As you may recall, we toured for three full days: one in Toledo (our best day), one in Segovia (another great day), and one in Madrid itself, which could have been better. Read all about those in previous posts. The summary of Madrid was that we had a great time, and we’ve now been there and done that. It’s now crossed off our list, and we won’t be going back. A nice city, but it was no Edinburgh or Amsterdam for us—but we are glad we visited once.
Lisbon with Viking
The next stop was Lisbon before our Douro River cruise. As soon as we got there, we met Marianne, who was amazing. She was not only the person directing our pre-cruise stay in Lisbon but also the Program Director on our entire river cruise. She proved to be one of the best parts of the whole 10 days we spent with Viking. Her laugh, her sense of humor and the fact that she was always UP and always FUN made her someone we will remember for quite a while. More about Marianne later.
Sadly, as you have read, when we were touring Lisbon with Viking, Fatima, the worst guide I have ever experienced, ruined the entire experience for me. Not only would she not shut up, but she insulted me, too.
Our Douro River Cruise
OK, this is what you have been waiting for—how was the cruise? In a quick word, it was awesome. We love river cruising. We really didn’t discover how much we liked it with our Christmas Market cruise on the Danube last winter because it was so darned cold. So, if you have done a Christmas Market cruise, go back and do a warm weather cruise like the Douro and see what you missed.
One of my absolute favorite things about this cruise was seeing the cruise. By that, I mean that on our Danube cruise, most of the movement on the river was accomplished either at night when we were asleep or during the day when we were on an excursion. My absolute favorite part of our Douro River cruise was sailing on the river. I think I mentioned in a previous post that I could do this cruise again and never get off the ship. Seriously, my favorite days were the ones where we spent the majority of the time sailing on the river and watching Portugal go by.
Shore Excursions
Don’t get me wrong, the shore excursions were just fine. If I had to rate them, I would put Salamanca, Spain as #1 because it was like going back to what Europe used to be in the early 2,000s before over-tourism started. I also enjoyed the short visit to Castelo Rodrigo. I mean, the castle was nice, but the best part was that it was brief. We sailed most of the day and then did about a three-hour excursion to a somewhat interesting place. Probably my third favorite was the second half of our first day when we visited the Mateus Palace. What snoozer. But the second half of the day was to visit the Sandeman winery, where they make their wonderful port wine, and be shown around by a guide who really knew what she was talking about and made the tour fun. That was it. The rest of the days, the excursion was either blah (Favios), or we didn’t go (Lamego).
The ship/boat
I really have yet to spend any time discussing the ship itself. Unlike the Viking Longship, we sailed on the Danube, the Douro River boats (you can put a boat on a ship, but you can’t put a ship on a boat, and I think you could put a Douro River boat on a big ocean-going vessel) are smaller due to the smaller locks they must get through. So, instead of carrying up to 190 passengers like the Danube boats do, the Douro River boats carry a maximum of 106, and ours only had 99. That makes so much difference. It’s much more intimate. You get to know most of the crew because there are only 36 of them. And they all do all sorts of jobs. One of our favorite people onboard was Mitra. His official title (on his name tag) said, “Bar Chef.” He was the best bartender on board, and he really kept things going in the lounge. But he was also the sommelier in the dining room and helped out waiting on tables or restocking the buffet as well. Our favorite server in the dining room, Ovi, not only served us dinner but also was the crew member who walked us to our stateroom on embarkation to show us how everything worked. She often worked in the lounge serving drinks. The lady got around.
Embarkation/Disembarkation
Speaking of embarkation…those of you who have suffered through a three-hour embarkation as we did in May 2023 to get on Koningsdam in Vancouver or anything like it will LOVE embarkation on a river cruise. Especially this one. Since we had spent two days with Viking in Lisbon before we boarded the boat, they had everyone on one of four “luxury motor coaches,” and they staggered their morning departures, which meant that each of the “luxury motor coaches” made it to the ship about 15 to 20 minutes apart. So when we arrived, we went up the gangway, and they asked us our names. We were escorted (us by Ovi) to our stateroom, and our luggage arrived minutes later.
Disembarkation was just as efficient. We were given a list of when every stateroom would be getting off (we had been asked in advance how we would be leaving the ship) and told to put our big luggage out in the hallway outside our rooms 15 minutes before we would get off. Then, at our appointed time, we got up and got off. Simple as that. It really pays to be on a smaller boat.
Our stateroom
Our stateroom was a suite. There, I said it. We splurged and booked a suite. It wasn’t that much more, but it got us some things we really wanted. The first was an actual extra room. We had both a living room and a bedroom. Not to mention a walk-in closet and a smallish bath (smaller than on our Danube cruise). So when I would wake up really early, I could sit in the living room and work on photos or on a new post without waking up Kathleen or needing to get completely dressed and go to the lounge.
The other reason we LOVED this suite was…free laundry. Yes, folks, we could send out as much laundry as we wanted, and it was included. On our Danube cruise, we had sent out a few things because we had already been in Lisbon for a few days, and then we did Prague and Nuremberg as a pre-cruise extension, so when we got on, we needed to have some things washed. But the prices were OFF THE CHARTS! As I recall, I got one pair of jeans, two pairs of socks, and two shirts, and it cost me $20. On Viking Torgil, we got to the ship with lots of dirty laundry from four days in Madrid, two nights in Lisbon and a single suitcase each. We immediately sent out all our dirty laundry (they gave us two really nice-sized bags to send it out in) and had it back early the next day. From that point on, I pretty much sent out laundry every day. Whatever I wore the day before, send it out! And it got to the point where it would come back on the same day.
If you would like to see photos of the suite, you may have to wait. I suddenly realized when we got home that I had never really taken any pictures of the suite. I had a couple (the bedroom and bathroom) but missed the living room. But never fear; you will be able to see a whole bunch soon because Mike and Cathy had the same type of suite we did, and Mike always does an awesome job of taking ship/boat/stateroom photos. His review of the cruise with all those photos should be out soon (HEY MIKE—is the review done yet? ?). When it is done, I will post about it, and you can find it right here at www.thepreismans.com. In the meantime, here are a few photos I took of our room.
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The bedroom.
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The bathroom
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The shower. Smaller than on their ocean ships.
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Our walk in closet
The Food
Everyone wants to know about the food on a cruise. We have found that Viking does a “fine” job of food on its ocean and river cruises. By that, we mean we like the food. It’s not gourmet, and it doesn’t hold a candle to Oceania. But our most memorable meals on this trip came when we were off the boat (lunch in Toledo and lunch in Cascais come to mind).
On board Viking Torgil, we had a wonderful British chef named Michael Bee Venet. I say he is wonderful less for his culinary skills than for his wonderful personality. Every night, he would preview the meal at our pre-dinner destination talk. He was hilarious. He also regularly stopped by everyone’s table. At breakfast, he would often come around with a special baked good and serve it to us himself.
But we thought his food was oversalted. Sometimes, it was just finishing salt. Some soups were fine when you got down below the surface, but those first three spoonfuls were very salty. We also thought the food was better at the beginning of the week than at the end. It wasn’t bad, just not as good. On a scale of one to ten, it was an eight when we started and a six when we finished.
By the way, when you take a Douro river cruise, you eat all your meals in the dining room. It is totally casual. I think we only saw anyone in anything dressy twice. OMG— people wore shorts in the dining room. We wore jeans and tennis shoes. On our Danube cruise, there was a small buffet area at the front of the boat, but not on the smaller Douro boat. It was the dining room or hunger.
All in all, the food was good and plentiful, and we had nothing to complain about…or wait! I want to complain about the bread. It was too good. Seriously, it may be the best bread I have had on any cruise. Delicious—and I ate way too much of it. Oh, and there were fewer veggies than we would have liked as well. Kind of like our ocean cruise on Viking Venus in June; there was a lot of red meat, which we try to avoid at home. Here’s a gallery of some dishes we ate on this trip. I will try to tell you where we ate them, but if you like great food, check them out. All were shot with my phone, so feel free to look at them on yours. Remember, you can click them to enlarge them and scroll through. I’ll start with some photos of where we all ate.
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At our usual table in the dining room on Torgil.
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And all of us at the Fado dinner.
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Kathleen and I at Botin Restaurant, the oldest in the world. Opened in 1725.
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The gazpacho at Botin
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The suckling pig specialty of the house at Botin.
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They also did young lamb.
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But pretty much everyone had the pig.
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Botin had great desserts. Especially this Catalan version of creme brûlée
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And some flan for Mike.
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While in Madrid, Cathy, Mike and I went to a tapas place one night. They had amazing eggplant.
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As well as patatas bravas.
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When I Madrid, you have to try churros and chocolate.
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One day in Madrid Kathleen and I had this awesome salad for lunch and…
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this wafer thin pizza. Salad was great. Pizza was not.
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Stuffed peppers in Segovia
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I think our best meal was in Toledo. This is my pork. Amazing.
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Mike and Steve had the boar cheeks. They raved about it.
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But the dessert—manchego cheese cake—was the best of the trip for rme.
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They had some interesting deserts.
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A pizza we had later in the trip In Salamanca, Spain.
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Chorizo on the table in Segovia.
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Some really great Segovian chorizo.
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As always in Portugal, I ate a lot of octopus.
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Lots of octopus. I think I had it at least four times. Probably more.
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Of course Cathy had to have a burger. Sometimes you just need a taste of home.
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When we stopped for lunch between Lisbon and Porto we got chicken or…
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Portugal’s national food—reconstructed cod.
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Onboard Mike got the biggest tiger prawns we have seen.
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And a nice risotto
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Something else we ate on board. I can’t remember what it was but it was good.
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A delicious orange cake on Torgil.
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And I got a hot dog! It’s a Bob thing. Only he understands.
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When we stopped in the Lebanese place in Lisbon, the tabouli was excellent.
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At the Fado show we got some decent soup.
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My entrée at the Fado show.
I almost forgot the “Steve Test.” For those of you unfamiliar with the Steve Test. I call this the Steve Test because my brother Steve came up with it. I think it’s brilliant. This is the entire test: If you eat in a restaurant while traveling, and if that restaurant is near you once you get home, would you go there again? If it were in your hometown, would we eat there regularly? For this trip, the places that passed the Steve test were Clandestina in Toledo, the Lebanese restaurant behind the TimeOut Market and a few of the meals on Torgil, but the ultimate A+ on the Steve Test went to the Chicken restaurant in Cascais on the day we toured Sintra. I know my brother believes it’s the best chicken he has ever had.
Entertainment
If you have been reading my stuff for a while, you know we have kind of given up on shows. Besides, they really don’t have shows on river cruises. However, they did have some great entertainers come on board while we were in ports, and Mike will have photos of those, I am sure. He can stay up later than we can. But I did want to mention two of the best entertainers I have ever seen on a ship—river or ocean.
The first is not really an entertainer but a server in the restaurant. He was kind of in charge of singing Happy Birthday to anyone celebrating one. He also was a total clown. He has a great voice, but what really makes him GREAT is his face. He can turn it into the absolute funniest looks you have ever seen. Here are a few shots of our buddy Agus doing his thing.
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He was singing to a woman who was celebrating her birthday.
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See what I mean about his face.
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No accompaniment.
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He has a thousand of looks.
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And is truly an amazing performer and a really nice guy.
He was so special that I am going to try to add a video I took of him. If it works, it’s right here. IT WORKED!
[videopress UVzEfu7W]
The other amazing performer on the ship was our wonderful, incredible, marvelous, fantastic Program Director, Marianne. We had heard that she was going to sing one night after dinner in the lounge. We were both pretty tired, but I persuaded Kathleen to go, and were we ever glad we did. She was all those adjectives I put up above and more. It might be the best show I have ever seen on any ship or boat. For sure, it was the most fun. And now that I got the Agus video to load, here’s a little bit of Marianne’s show.
[videopress or6hDDlg]
Besides being the best Program/Cruise Director we have ever sailed with (35+ cruises), she is one of the nicest and most caring people you will ever meet. We would take a cruise she was on just to sail with her.
To Sum Up
How much did we enjoy this river cruise? For the first time in more than twenty years (since we took our first Panama Canal cruise on Celebrity’s Infinity in 2004), we don’t have an ocean cruise booked, and we don’t think we will take one in the foreseeable future. We have booked a Chobe River cruise in Africa, a Columbia River Cruise, and a Great Lakes cruise, but that’s it. We can’t think of anywhere that big-ship ocean cruises go that we still really want to see. We aren’t saying we wouldn’t go if friends wanted to go together, but we have been there and done that just about everywhere ocean cruises go. I guess we are now river cruise people.
WAIT! I almost forgot the best part of the entire trip—getting to travel once again with Steve, Jamie, Mike and Cathy—our October gang. We will all do it again next October when we cruise the Columbia River between Washington and Oregon.
No man ever steps in the same river twice, for it’s not the same river and he’s not the same man. —Heraclitus
by Jim Bellomo | Oct 23, 2024 | Uncategorized
When I finished telling you about our visit to Salamanca, I forgot to mention that when we returned to the boat that evening, it had made the turnaround, and we were now heading west again and retracing our steps back to Porto. As I write this to tell you about our day in Favios (pronounced fa v? OOSH), we are already back in Porto and have spent a full day on the river getting here. More about that tomorrow.
Our day after Salamanca was all about stopping in Favios for two things: bread and Muscatel wine. Now I love bread. Always have. But I am not a big fan of Muscatel wine. It’s way too sweet for my tastes. Port is right on the border of sweetness for me. Muscatel goes over the edge. But off we went to try it all out. After a 75-minute ride on our “luxury motor coach,” we found ourselves in the village of Favios. We were met by a very nice young man named Mohammed, who took us to what is best described as a bread demonstration center. There, an older Portuguese woman showed us how she makes bread. It’s not really the making but the dividing it into pieces and then putting it in the oven. We also got to taste the bread (which was nowhere near as good as the bread we have been getting on the ship) and ask questions. There weren’t a lot of questions, so we moved on.
After our bread demo, we headed to the Favios Museum of Bread and Muscatel. Seriously, they have a very well-conceived, four-room museum that is beautifully graphically designed for their village’s two main products. A young lady named Vanessa gave us the tour, and then we were back on the bus to visit a Muscatel winery about three miles away.
To be honest, I am about wineryed out by this point. And since I have no interest in Muscatel tasting, this was kind of a flat stop for me. But others seemed to enjoy it, so no complaints on my part. Besides, it was a quick (less than 30 minutes) stop, and then we were off to lunch at a local winery. Lunch was OK (nothing like we would have had on the ship—but more traditional?), and in a little more than an hour, we were on our way back to the boat. Here are the pictures I took in Favios. If you like bread or wine, these might interest you. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…
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The first thing we saw getting out of the bus was this girl’s school. The boy’s school was at the other end of the block.
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Mohammed introduces the baker.
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And cuts up the dough.
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Mohammed gets excited about the final product.
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And the baker puts more in the fire.
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Outside on the way to the museum, I got a couple of shots of Favios.
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Including this watcher on the balcony. He was keeping an eye on the tourists.
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Great streets in Favios.
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Vanessa runs the museum.
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Some great scenery in wine country.
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Dogs were everywhere and allowed to run (and sleep) freely.
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Our host at the Muscael winery.
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Shows us the steel tanks.
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Outside was this great mural of the winery’s founder.
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Off to lunch at another winery.
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Where the grape vines were changing colors….
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….and they had pretty evil looking fountain…
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…as well as a very cool pickup truck.
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I love old trucks.
After we were back on board, the boat headed down the river through one of the locks the boat had gone through on the way up the river, but most of us had missed it when we were visiting Castela Rodrigo a few days before. That’s one of the best parts of this cruise. If you miss something on the river, they ensure you sail through that part on the way back while you are onboard so you can see it. Took a bunch of photos on that part of the trip as well. You know the drill.
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Headed back down I decided to get Kathleen this villa for her birthday.
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And of course I love a train so when this multi-colored one went by, you get a photo.
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Entering the lock we missed.
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The captain ready to guide it in.
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It’s going to be a tight squeeze.
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We are at the top of the dam and the river is far below us.
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Getting shut in.
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This is a guillotine lock. That means it goes up and down to let us through.
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When it opens and the ship moves under it, you get drenched if you are out in the open.
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We have now descended and are making our way out of the lock.
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Another Viking boat is coming in to go upriver.
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We find ourselves facing two bridges.
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And pass another boat before we make a quick stop….
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at Régua to pick up folks who went on an optional excursion.
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Five of our group went off to find a Pharmacia where we could get cold meds. On the way, I saw these doors.
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And found my way back to the ship.
That about covers our day in Favios. For a glimpse of what is yet to come, tomorrow is all about being on the river because we skipped the excursion (it was more monasteries and cathedrals) and had a glorious sunny day sailing west on the Douro into Porto. See you then.
Wine hath drowned more men than the sea. —Thomas Fuller
by Jim Bellomo | Oct 13, 2024 | Uncategorized
I know. How can anyone be transfixed by Toledo? When it’s Toledo, Spain, that’s easy. Yesterday, that was our destination. Mike had arranged a tour through Destina Toledo for a full day excursion to Toledo, including round-trip transportation to and from our hotel here in Madrid and one of the best guides we have ever toured with (and that’s a lot of guides!).
We were waiting at the door of the hotel’s breakfast room when it opened at 8:00 a.m., had another excellent breakfast, got our stuff, and our driver met us right outside the hotel. It’s around a one-hour drive without traffic to Toledo, and since it was fairly early on a Sunday morning, we didn’t have any traffic at all. So quick as a flash, we were pulling into Toledo, where we met our incredible guide, Fernando.
Fernando and our driver did a wonderful job mixing touring in our luxury Mercedes van with walking. This really helps in a city built on a hill. Kathleen told me that when she first saw the city from far away, she was sure that she would be spending most of the day in the van. But it worked out reasonably well, and her knee was able to handle the walking that we did. It was pretty sore when we got back, so she iced it up and took her pain pill, and hopefully, she will be OK for today’s tour of Madrid.
When we met Fernando, he first suggested we hop out of the van and take photos of the entrance gate to the city. That’s the photo you see at the top of this post. Then it was back in the van and up the hill to two incredible viewpoints. One that showed us the Tagus River as it wound around the outside of Toledo, forming a natural moat-like boundary that repelled many a historical enemy of the city. Then, it was to a hill where the entire city was visible. Of course, Fernando was also willing to be our photographer by taking the whole group’s photo with this amazing city in the background. 
Here are a few more photos I took at these first two stops. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…
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Our first stop was below the city along the Tagus River
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There was an area below the parking spot where I went to get his photo of the group.
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The amazing Fernando relates some Toledo history to my little brother.
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Looking down the river from this viewpoint.
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And back up to the city again.
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And again.
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And again.
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There are so many different ways to view the city from this point.
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Then, we headed up to the overlook above the city.
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Where the views were spectacular.
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We would later tour this cathedral.
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Looking down at some ancient Roman ruins.
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Fernando told us that this section of the city was the most important because his mother-in-law lives there.
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People fish in the river, but swimming is prohibited due to pollution. Not sure I want to eat those fish.
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But even though the water is muddy, it is still beautiful.
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Fernando explains the geography to a rapt audience.
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Of course, we had to take an usie.
After our viewpoint stops, we headed back down the hill on the opposite side to begin our walking tour through the Jewish Quarter of old Toledo. It included some pretty interesting stuff: a Jewish synagogue, Jesus playing with his hula-hoop, a statue in white face, the world’s largest (as verified by the Guinness Book of World Records) marzipan statue and an art museum with a single painting by Toledo’s native son—El Greco. I think I can say this part a whole lot better in photos. You know my spiel. No phones! Slide show…etc.
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Our next stop was further down the river next to a very old bridge.
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It leads into the upper part of the city.
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Very picturesque!
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In many ways.
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While on the bridge, the sun hit this building on the hill next to us just perfectly.
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After crossing the bridge it was back in the car and further up the hill to a church where we saw these shackles depicting free slaves on the outside of a church.
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We also saw an unusual statue of Jesus playing with a hula-hoop.
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And a repaired statue in white-face.
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The walls of the old Jewish synagogue were painted in this pattern.
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And the ceiling was simple but complex.
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Further up the road we stopped at another church.
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This was above the altar.
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The dome was beautiful.
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This one had some interesting decorations.
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Including this captioned saint on what looks like an old billboard.
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Some interesting statuary.
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As well as an ancient tablet.
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Hiking down on our way to lunch, we passed this villa that I took a liking to.
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We visited a bakery where we saw this Don Quixote sculpture, made completely from marzipan.
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And this long bricked street (yes, street!)
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El Greco’s “The Burial of the Count of Orgaz.” A single painting in a one-painting museum.
After all that touring, we were getting pretty hungry, and to our total amazement (and Fernando’s skill), we wound up standing in front of the restaurant where I had made our lunch reservations at exactly 1:00 pm when they opened. The place is called Clandestine. We were quickly seated, met our server Jamie, and began a lunch that I will rank among this year’s top ten dining experiences. The eatery had come from a recommendation the tour company had sent us before, so we were still determining what to expect, but we got more food, wine and laughter than we deserved. There was so much food that no one ate again for the rest of that day and night. We were too full. We started with a beautiful Spanish rioja. The wine, which we intend to look for at home, was perfect. It was so perfect that we had to order another bottle. They then brought us a bowl of some of the best Spanish olives we have ever had and some whole-grain bread that we could dip into their incredible olive oil (at that point, the olive oil was the star of my meal). Jamie (the waiter—not to be confused with my sister-in-law Jamie) made some great recommendations, and we wound up with some superb entrées. Check out the photos below. Feel free to look at any of our food shots on your phone. That’s how we took them. Oh, and the desserts (which we split) were also excellent.
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It’s an amazing wine. If you are serving Spanish food, you must find this wine.
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Steve and Mike had the Boar Cheeks.
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Kathleen, Jamie and I had the pork. OMG—that sauce.
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Then, Steve and Jamie’s dessert, which the restaurant called french toast, was like eating a single piece of bread pudding.
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Mike, Cathy, Kathleen and I tried the Manchego cheesecake. I have never had anything like it.
After lunch, it was down the hill to visit our last stop, the main cathedral of Toledo. This was the highlight for Mike because he loves taking pictures of churches. My other best friend (hi Bob) and I love kidding him about all the church photos. If you don’t believe me, wait until we are back and he posts his review/report of this trip, and you will see what I mean. I promise to come back and tell you when he does so you can see more of this incredible church. In the meantime, here are a few photos from your humble photographer ?.
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On the way to the cathedral we passed…
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this beautiful sculpture at the top of a building…
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these three beautiful women standing in the street…
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…a nice view of a another church…
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a very cool street musician…
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another lovely Toledo street…
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…a really cool but really BIG door.
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How big? My brother is holding the knocker.
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And finally the square where we can see the capitol building and if we turn around…
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…the processional entrance to the cathedral.
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With some interesting sculptures.
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With my long lens, I like doing close ups of interesting parts of the sculptures.
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For instance, this depiction of The Last Supper.
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With Judas and his bag of money.
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And these two bishops…doesn’t the guy on the right seem surprised by what’s in the book?
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And a beutiful bell tower.
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Andems. the church to go along with it.
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And some really fun lions.
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And then we were inside.
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With the many religous artifacts.
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Some incredibly impressive.
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Stained glass everywhere. This one above the ceremonial door.
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Other beautiful art.
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Maybe the most beautiful monstrance I have ever seen.
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The main altar was behind locked gates. Mike will have a better photo.
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This was above the choir loft.
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A close up of it.
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Also above the choir loft was this immense pipe organ.
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Inside the sacristy.
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Where there is also a huge El Greco painting.
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This is an incredible window with sculptures all around it, letting in light to shine on the back of the altar area.
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Truly amazing.
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This is where the light from that window shines.
After we were done inside (we were there for more than an hour), we went back outside to the square behind the cathedral to wait for our driver to pick us up. While we were waiting, there were throngs of people all around us, and with nothing better for me to do, I engaged in one of my favorite things—street photography. So here I present random shots of people who, one day (long after I am gone), my kids will wonder, “Who the hell are these people?” ?.
Sorry, no captions. Just the faces of Toledo visitors. Some I liked more than others, but all were good subjects. I took about three times as many as you see here. And one fellow perfectly typified how we all felt at the end of our very long day in Toledo. And here he is. 
We got back to Madrid between 5:00 and 6:00 p.m., and I made the mistake of trying to work through all my photos and then falling asleep before 7:30 (I think we are all still adjusting to the time change). However, that turned out OK because I woke up at 2:00 a.m., finished the photos and wrote this post.
In summary, if you come to Madrid, go to Toledo, be guided by Fernando, have lunch at Clandestine, ask to sit at Jamie’s table, drink the right rioja, and take some great photos, you will (as we did) have had an awesome day.
Spain is a fascinating mix of people, languages, culture and food, but if there is one thing all Spaniards share, it’s a love of food and drink. —Jose Andres
by Jim Bellomo | Oct 12, 2024 | Food Experiences
We woke up and found everyone here! Yeah! It was fantastic to walk into the breakfast room downstairs in our hotel and see the whole gang. We hadn’t seen Jamie and Steve since they left for the airport in Norway in June, and we hadn’t seen Mike and Cathy since we sailed from Montreal to Miami a year ago this month.
I want to say right up front that the Hotel Preciados serves a fabulous breakfast. It’s just amazing. I could just eat the bread and the incredible jambon ham. Put that together with the outstanding coffee, and I was in breakfast heaven.
After we all got caught up and fed up, we decided what to do yesterday. Mike and I (as your tour planners) had decided to go light on day one since we would all be a little jet-lagged. The only thing we had scheduled was lunch at Botin Restaurant—the world’s oldest, continuously operating restaurant. Really. They have operated under the same family’s ownership since 1725. The building has been there since 1590 (Isn’t Europe glorious). Their other claim to fame is that the wood-burning ovens they use to make their signature roast suckling pig have never gone out during that entire time. This might be an excellent time to show you our food pics from yesterday (with captions, of course). It is OK to look at these on your phone because I took them with mine ?. This is all of them, from the few at breakfast to the incredible lunch to the tapas Mike, Cathy, and I had to finish off the day.
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The Breakfast Room at the Hotel Preciados
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Our waiter (who looked like he came with the restaurant) at Botin
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The third-floor dining room.
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Jamie and Steve
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Kathleen and I with their beautiful handpainted pitcher.
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Mike’s amazing gazpacho.
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Kathleen had the lamb.
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I had the suckling pig
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Mike and Cathy split a flan
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We split a Catalunya broulé
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The Menu
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An incredible eggplant dish.
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Olives and Patatas Bravas at the tapas place Mike, Cathy and I finished our day at.
Once we were done with breakfast, there wasn’t much to do anyway as the skies had opened up, and the torrential downpour Mike and Cathy had experienced the day before while transitioning planes in Lisbon finally got to Madrid. It just poured! So far, the only thing I have forgotten is a small waterproof bag I use to shield my camera when wet. So before lunch, I wandered off to find a Googled photo store to see if they had something to keep my camera dry. I never found an actual camera store, but I found just about everything else in a nine-story department store. I settled for some small draw-string trash bags that should do the job.
After that, it was almost time to head to lunch (which I have already described), so we did that. Most of the group walked the mile or so to Bodin, but with Kathleen’s bad knee, she and I decided to take an Uber. The only problem is that yesterday was a national holiday in Spain and there were parades, crowds and traffic jams everywhere. (MASSIVE PET PEEVE: The Uber app says the ride is five minutes away. The Uber driver who accepts rides that are actually 15 minutes away and not moving.) We waited for almost half an hour before we gave up, canceled the Uber and got a Bolt (European rideshare company) that was there to get us in two minutes. But we made it, and that is all that matters.
After lunch, we sent Kathleen back to the hotel in another Bolt (lots more of those, so I will be sticking with Bolt in Madrid), and the rest of us went off to walk around the city for a couple of hours. We started at Plaza Mayor, which looked like it would have been very cool if there hadn’t been a big stage for a concert that afternoon. Hopefully, it will be gone when we return to our Madrid walking tour on Monday. After that, we walked down to the Madrid cathedral and palace. And, of course, on this walk, I took a lot of photos, so here they are. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…
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Bodin, the world’s oldest restaurant.
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A nearby hostel Ilked the color of.
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Steps leading down from Plaza Mayor.
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Two upstairs doors just outside Plaza Mayor.
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Beautiful buildings in the plaza.
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The HUGE stage that blocked everything else.
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Every square seemed to have an equestrian statue.
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And Icarus was nearby.
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On the way to the cathedral we passed smaller churches.
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Some of them were very photogenic.
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Some had beautiful gardens.
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Others were just cool looking.
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The street signs were marvelous and easy to read.
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We finally reach the Cathedral.
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I love this statue. It’s like he’s saying, “Eh! How you doing?”
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The back of the cathedral facing the palace.
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Two of the mounted palace guards.
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A lilac apartment building.
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A female palace guard—it’s about the damn time.
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The blue crested sparrow is seldom seen with a red-topped chickadee.
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The palace. They were having a big to-do for the holiday.
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The front door of the cathedral.
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Beautiful, aged copper.
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Inside the cathedral had a MASSIVE organ.
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And a beautiful altar.
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With some great stained glass.
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And the ceiling of the dome as well.
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On the way back to the hotel I found a square with a line of statues.
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And one big one in the center…with a fountain.
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And this happy crowd getting their photo taken.
After our walk back, I reviewed photos until Mike and Cathy asked if we wanted to go out for tapas and a drink. Kathleen and Jamie decided they were done for the day, but the rest of us headed out and found a cool tapas place about a block away. Steve decided he was just too tired and not hungry enough, so he headed back. Mike, Cathy, and I had a marvelous time trying their food, and we drank a glass of Madrid’s favorite drink, vermouth. Photos of the food are above in the food gallery. After the tapas, Mike and Cathy went out to explore. On the other hand, I returned to the room to check in on Kathleen, changed into my walking stuff, and headed out to take photos. I wanted to get a sunset shot of the Temple of Debod. This is a complete Egyptian temple (built in the second century BC) that the Egyptian government gave as a gift to the city of Madrid to save it from being submerged when they built the Aswan dam in the 1960s. It was truly beautiful. On the way there and back, I got some photos I am very happy with. Here’s the place where you can check them out. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…
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Returning from the tapas place I saw the sky was clearing.
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On the way to the temple, I passed by this set of statues.
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They depict Don Quixote, Sancho Panza in the front in copper and behind them the author who gave them life, Cervantes.
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The Temple of Debod. My best shot on this trip…so far.
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From the side.
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Looking out across Madrid.
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On a beautiful night.
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And on the street walking back.
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In a city that was just ALIVE!
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Our hotel is straight ahead.
I want to make one last point about Madrid (and most other European cities we have visited). These cities are ALIVE! At night the populace is outdoors, walking around, eating, drinking, listening to music on the street…just living. In all our travels, I have found nowhere like this in the US except New York City and maybe Las Vegas. And the living goes on late. Last night was Saturday and we could hear crowds in the street below our hotel still going strong at 1:00 am. It’s phenomenal. Of course, they don’t eat dinner until 10:00 pm, so they have to stay up that late to digest their food ?.
Madrid is what I call home, but also the States. —Penelope Cruz