Zambezi Queen–Day 3 (or the third full day)

As it turns out, this game lodge (in the absolute middle of nowhere) had great internet. Go figure.

Right now, it has been almost a week since the day I am about to write about. I am sitting in the main lodge at Tintswalo Game Lodges, watching a small herd of elephants drink water less than 30 feet from me. I have stopped writing this at least five times to go out and take their photos, but I have sooooo much to cover before you will see those. Let’s finish up our Zambezi Queen story.

Pre-Dawn Solo Birdwatching

This was our last full day on the Zambezi Queen and they had scheduled another optional birdwatching tour at 6:30 am. When they had done this on our first morning, there had been about eight of us who went out on the boat with Gibson.

I had promised myself to do every game/birdwatch cruise they offered us so I was up and ready to go. Sadly, no one else was. When Gibson came to get everyone and found just me waiting, I told him it was OK if he didn’t want to go out. That I would just stay on the Queen and process photos. He told me, “If I don’t take you I will be stuck either cleaning or assisting with breakfast. I would much rather be on the river in my boat. I will take you someplace that we don’t usually go but it is the best place to see birds.” How could I pass that up? So I got in the boat and off we went. I have to say that this morning cruise with Gibson was absolutely (so far with three days to go) one of the true highlights of the cruise for me.

We started out going in an entirely different direction than we had on all the other game cruises. We went towards the rapids that led to Victoria Falls. As we approached them, I could see thousands of nesting birds silhouetted by the rising sun. We stayed right in that area for more than an hour, with me getting to shoot any bird I wanted to my heart’s content. He would ask how I wanted the boat positioned so I could get the best shot and the best light. What a guy!!!

We also saw a couple of crocodiles and hippos. On the way back to breakfast (which was totally up to me), we stopped alongside a herd of Cape buffalo and I got my favorite animal photo up to that point. I am not much of a bird photographer, and if you are, these may disappoint you, but they make me happy. Plus I got another great African sunrise. Here are the pics from that morning trip with my new best photo friend, Gibson. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…

Visiting the locals

After breakfast, everyone boarded the smaller boats to return to Namibia, heading towards a small village just east of the border station. Our guide for the morning was Tecklar, a young, single woman who lived there. She shared that the village, which had just under 40 residents, including men, women, and children, was relatively new. Tecklar had recently become a part of the community, and she had to apply to the village elder, the regional chief of the tribe, and finally the government to be allowed to move in.

Editor’s note: At this point I welcome any of my fellow travelers to correct me on any facts, as it has been over a week since our visit, and my memory might be a bit hazy.

While we were in the village we were shown the lodgings, new well and solor system, the gardens and finally the village gathering place where almost the entire village sang and danced for us. It was a an awesome visit. They even had a small bazaar set up where they sold things they had made. We came home with a hand-painted bowl and a carved wooden giraffe. So here are my photos from the visit. Hopefully you got a chance to watch the video above of the village entertaining us. You know the drill. Don’t forget to click the photos to make them bigger.

And just so you can hear the music, here’s a short video.

Afternoon Game Cruise

After a quick bite for lunch, we were off on our last game cruise of our voyage. Kathleen decided to stay and pack, so I was off with a few of the others and Gibson. He finds us the best stuff. I need to add that Kathleen did not miss much by staying on the Zambezi Queen. While she packed, the Queen sailed up and down the river, and they saw as many animals as we did. Maybe they weren’t close, but they were definitely close enough. I will put some of her iPhone photos up later so you can see what I mean.

Instead of going into detail in text about what we saw on this last game cruise, I will just let my photos do the talking. Enjoy. Captions identify but you have to change into slide show mode to see them.

That covers the day. It was back to the Queen for a final night dinner that featured some of the incredible crew members singing and dancing for us afterward. More tomorrow.We just got back from a game drive, it’s freezing, we ate dinner and are going to bed because we go out again tomorrow morning at 6:00 pm.

Africa is f**king exhausting.  —Kathleen Bellomo

 

Zambezi Queen-Day 2

This is our guide Sam. That’s his jeep we rode around in all day.

Just so you know, this post details our third day on Queen, but we barely got on before dinner on day one, so I am counting yesterday as Day 1 and today as Day 2.

Day two is all about Chobe National Park in Botswana, where we would spend the day in the back of a jeep (on decent seats) being bounced all over the place while seeing some amazing animals, then stopping for a nice picnic lunch before heading back to the Zambezi Queen for dinner.

Our day started like any other day leaving the Queen to go someplace. Even though we could see the park in Botswana from the Zambezi Queen, we had to go up river, get out of the boats, walk up the half mile to the border crossing, check out of Namibia, then get back in the boats, head back down river, pass the Queen to the Botswana border crossing where we waited in line again to check in to Botswana. From there, we were picked up by our guides. Kathleen had decided to stay aboard today, so I was on my own with just my camera. And five of us got really lucky and got Sam as our driver. That’s him in the photo—a truly great guy.

He picked us up at the border crossing, and we headed about three miles down the highway to the entrance to Chobe National Park. We stopped to use the facilities (which were easily the most disgusting of the trip—go before you leave the Queen or there is a fairly clean restroom behind the border station coming into Botswana. Just ask for directions.) and then it was on into the park.

Chobe is renowned for having the highest concentration of elephants in Africa, and we quickly discovered this when we found ourselves in the middle of a herd, with one of the elephants coming right up to our jeep. That got a bit scary, but he backed off and went around us. I think that was as close as I got to a wild animal on the entire trip (so far). Maybe six feet away. He did not have a happy look on his face. But I think you should judge for yourself. So here’s the first batch of pictures (all the way up to lunch) from the park. Enjoy. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…

Lunchtime

AmaWaterways has been great with arrangements on this entire trip. The biggest reason for this is the amazing Delia. For today, she had completely organized a picnic lunch in the middle of a national park where thousands of wild animals surrounded us. And there was even a restroom…with about the same level of disgusting as the one at the entrance to the park, but not quite as bad. I finished my lunch while others were still eating, and my yearbook mode kicked in, so I started taking candid photos of my fellow travelers. I have some fans of my people shots (hi Kay), so here they are if you are interested. Otherwis,e scroll on down for more animals.

After lunch, more jeep riding

Once lunch was over, it was back in the jeep with Sam and off to see more animals. I will let you follow along with the photos.

That was about it for animals. Just some final notes to let you know where we are now and what’s coming in posts.

Today is Monday, July 14. It is our full day in Johannesburg. The photos on this page were taken on Wednesday the 9th. In the interim we had one more day on the Zambezi Queen and then we transitioned to Victoria Falls for two nights. I have a lot more videos, but uploading them takes a while and uses up a lot of bandwidth.

Stop the presses! We are just back from our visit to the Soweto Township. What a kick in the teeth. In the USA, I always feel guilty for being a white male, now I feel bad for being a white, male, financially successful, American. More about that in a few days. Suffice it to say, today’s trip was beyond eye-opening.

Of course, no post from Africa should be without either a sunrise or a sunset. Enjoy!

I was a child among the lions. Now I want to be one of those lions.  —Charles Oliveira

 

Zambezi Queen–Day One

We spent four incredible days and five wonderful nights on the Zambezi Queen. It was so far beyond what I expected that I can’t even begin to tell you. Our first day offered three possible game cruises. When I say “game cruises,” it means we got into a smaller boat that held 7-10 people plus the driver and set out to explore the river and its tributaries close up. Unlike the rest of the time, when the Zambezi Queen herself would float up and down the Chobe River. You will be amazed at what we could see just looking out the window of our stateroom.

Early Morning Bird Watching…and MORE!

The first game cruise offered on the first day was a 6:30 AM bird watching cruise with my (now) good buddy, Gibson, at the helm. About six of the 28-person group showed up, and off we went. I am not much of a bird watcher. But this turned into so much more. Not everyone was willing to get up and go that early, but I had resolved to take every single small boat trip they would offer me in the four days we were there. And was I ever glad we did. I am going to shut up now and let you see the photos from this early-morning bird watching expedition. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…

10:00 AM Game Cruise

After breakfast, pretty much everyone piled into one of the three small tour boats and took off up or down the Chobe River alongside Chobe National Park in Botswana and the shores of Namibia. We were not allowed to get too close to the park itself, but we could stop the boats just off the park for photos. And I took a BUNCH! And here we go again.

Afternoon Game Cruise

The 10:00 game cruise took about three hours, so we were back on board at 1:00, had lunch and rested or just watched the river go by. Because it was the dry season, a whole bunch of animals had come down to the river. But that didn’t stop me from joining Gibson on the 3:00 PM game cruise. Kathleen decided to stay on board and watch out the window of our stateroom (she saw hippos, elephants and Cape Buffalo). I just got closer to them than she did. Here’s my pics from the afternoon game cruise. By now you know the drill.

God bless Africa, Guard her people, Guide her leaders, And give her peace. —Trevor Huddleston

 

Wine, Mountain and Gone

Here’s the Cape Town group. We would meet up with eight others when we boarded the Zambezi Queen in Namibia. You can see Kathleen and I on the right. And yes, I can pretty much tell you who everyone is. Well, everyone I like ?.

As I write this, I am sitting in our stateroom on the Zambezi Queen riverboat. Today has been exhausting. We have been in four countries, and I can see a fifth one outside our window. But more about that later. Today is about yesterday, or actually four days ago. Does that make sense? (Editor’s note: It has now been four days since I wrote this, and the internet has been so slow that I have not been able to finish it. I have so much more to show you, so please stand by.)

On Sunday, the plan was to tour the South African Winelands, and if the clouds finally cleared, we would take the cable car to the top of Table Mountain. Visiting the Winelands is, of course, all about the wine. So, today, Delia passed the baton to Gen, who is a true wine expert, having worked in both the travel and wine industries for several years.

Gen entertained and educated us as we drove from Cape Town to Stellenbosch. I wish I could remember all I heard, but I know I had a great time listening. She (as well as Delia) were very open about life in South Africa and about their own lives. We truly appreciated their frankness about a country they clearly loved, but not a racist system that is still in effect here.

We arrived in Stellenbosch and got out to both do a little shopping and to walk around the downtown. As you can see, I took a few photos as well. Then it was back in the “luxury motor coach” to head to our first winery, Longridge. We tasted six wines (at 10:00 am) from a Chenin Blanc (this is South Africa’s premier white) to a Pinotage (South Africa’s premier red) as well as a sweet dessert wine. All were excellent, although we have grown to love Pinotage.

We spent about 90 minutes at that winery before heading to another one, Lievland. There, we not only tasted their wines but also enjoyed a full lunch in their amazing restaurant. We stayed for at least two hours, having a great feast and another opportunity for all of us to learn a little more about each other.

So, here are my photos of our wine tours. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…

After lunch, we were back on our “luxury motor coach” for the return trip to Cape Town. Throughout the day, we could see Table Mountain in the distance. The only major thing we hadn’t done since arriving was to take the cable car to the top. We kept watching it, but we were often disappointed because it was covered in clouds. Delia and Gen told us it wasn’t worth going up if the whole mountain was shrouded in fog, since the main attraction is taking photos of the city from above.

All day long, our hopes sank as it looked like the weather wouldn’t clear up. It hadn’t cleared since we arrived in the city. Delia said they would take us to the lower cable car station, as the view there was pretty good. But, surprisingly, as we drove through the city, the clouds disappeared, and we were able to go up! I’m sure you can see what an incredible experience this was from my photos, so I’ll let you look at them. They do have captions but you have to click on them and run the slide show to see them. Some are just views from the top. 

Come back tomorrow… or maybe later today. Our transition to the Zambezi Queen in Namibia was a journey I wouldn’t want to take again. Nothing bad, just too many border crossings.

Wine is constant proof that God loves us and loves to see us happy. —Benjamin Franklin

 

Things Got Good at the Cape and more…

I think I finished yesterday’s post with a note about the weather, but something happened after I posted it that I want to mention before we start day two. We are on a tour with other people. Imagine that. Although we only have a five-day, four-night river cruise, this entire trip is part of an AmaWaterways tour. So, in the evening on our first full day, after we had checked into the Cape Grace Hotel and noted the weather, we had a very nice group meeting to hear from our tour coordinator, Delia, all about what would be happening in the coming 15 days. We also had the opportunity to meet 20 of our fellow travelers. The Zambezi Queen (our riverboat) accommodates 28 people, and eight others will be joining us for just the cruise. We won’t meet them until we arrive on board on Monday night.

We did have a great time meeting the group and have already made some good friends. It’s a fun group, mostly in our age range, and all American except for two Canadians from British Columbia. It’s funny how we always seem to end up with two Canadians on our trips. I will have more about some of them later on, as they are all really great folks.

Spiced Eggs with Feta at the Cape Grace Hotel

Yesterday started with breakfast at the hotel at 6:30. Here at the Cape Grace, the food is excellent. For breakfast, there is an entire room dedicated to the cold buffet and baked goods, and you can also order from the menu for your breakfast entrée. Who would have thought that my breakfast entrée was and will be again today and tomorrow, the best thing I have eaten on this trip? Not me. But it is! It’s called Spiced Eggs with Feta, but it was so much more than that. OMG! Can’t wait for breakfast again today (I am typing this at 5:17 am, so I am getting close!!!)

Once finished with breakfast, we were off on our first excursion at 7:30. We were in a very nice “luxury motor coach” that was closer to an Airporter-type bus than a Greyhound bus. Since there were only 20 of us, there was lots of room. Our first stop was Boulders Beach, the home of the largest colony of African penguins in Africa. They used to be called Jackass Penguins because of the sound they make. When Delia told us this on the way down, we laughed, but she asked us to wait until we heard them before making a judgment on how they sounded. She was right. I should have done a video so you could hear the sound, but none of them would make the sound when they were visible (not in some bushes), so you’ll just have to take my word for it until you come down here yourself.

So here are the photos from Boulders Beach. If you are interested in knowing more about this colony of penguins, you have to see *Penguin Town* on Netflix. It’s an eight-part series of 30-minute shows narrated by Patton Oswalt, all about this colony of penguins. Don’t forget: if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE… don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…

Besides the penguins at Boulders Beach, I also took pictures of a few other things that I wanted to include. Here they are with all the usual warnings and such.

As you can see from the photos, the weather has improved. Now it’s more like what we’re used to at home in the late spring and fall: rain at times, followed by beautiful blue skies. It stayed this way the rest of the day, and we are hoping for even better weather today with a little less rain and wind. One of the things we really want to do is take a cable car to the top of Table Mountain, but so far, the winds have not cooperated, and the cable car has been closed since we got here.

Speaking of things that are closed, on our first day here (before we joined the tour), I had planned to visit Robben Island, which is the site of the prison where Nelson Mandela was held for many years. Half our group was supposed to tour it today, while the rest of us would tour the Winelands. Sadly, Delia had to inform us that Robben Island has been closed for over a month and is not scheduled to reopen until the results of a corruption investigation are made public. So everyone will be going to the Winelands today.

Back to our day on Saturday. After we left Boulder Beach, we headed further south to the Cape of Good Hope (which is not the southernmost point of Africa, it is the most southwestern point). It was a beautiful drive, and on the way we got to see ostriches, baboons and one lonely eland. Here are my shots from the Cape, including some incredible views, a cool lighthouse and a few of the animals. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…

After our stop at the Cape (where we also took the photo at the top of this page), we headed back towards Cape Town, but first we stopped for a huge and very filling lunch. There was so much food and it was so good, that we ended up cancelling our dinner reservations because we were stuffed. They had black sesame ice cream for dessert, served with a small cake and panna cotta. Very interesting…and delicious.

When we returned to the hotel (around 4:00), Kathleen was exhausted, so she took a nap, and I went out to take photos around the area. There is a huge shopping and tourist complex, and I thought it would be a great place for street photography; I was right. At least I think so. Hope you agree. You know the thing about looking at my pics on a phone that I mentioned before…stick with that ?. And click the first picture and go through them like a slideshow. That way, you can see my captions as well.

And that brings us to the end of yesterday. I worked on photos, and Kathleen napped until we went downstairs to the hotel’s pub for a snack and a drink. However, as I mentioned, the weather did improve, as you can see in the photo below, which I took of our hotel (in the foreground) and Table Mountain behind it. More tomorrow.

Perhaps it was history that ordained that it be here, at the Cape of Good Hope, that we should lay the foundation stone of our new nation. For it was here at this Cape, over three centuries ago, that there began the fateful convergence of the peoples of Africa, Europe and Asia on these shores. —Nelson Mandela