Day 12—Port Colborne and the Welland Canal

Our last full day on the ship was supposed to include a "luxury motor coach" trip to Niagara Falls… but it didn’t. Try as we might to avoid it, Kathleen caught the traditional vacation cold and was up all night coughing the night before we were supposed to visit Niagara Falls. So we decided to stay in the small town where the ship was docked at the southern tip of the Welland Canal, Port Colborne. Deciding not to go to Niagara Falls was not a hard choice. We had been there twice together, on both the Canadian (better) and American (not as good) sides.

So we got up late and went to a late breakfast after everyone else had boarded their “luxury motor coaches” and headed off to the Falls. It was almost like we had the ship to ourselves. After breakfast, Kathleen decided to sleep some more, and I grabbed my camera and went for a walk to photograph the lovely little town of Port Colborne. I took some pictures (of course I did), added captions, and they are below.

There are also photos of our transit through the Welland Canal, which takes us from Lake Huron to Lake Ontario (please see quote at the bottom of this page). A fun trip.

We are in Toronto this morning (Saturday). We got off the ship yesterday morning at 9:00, fully prepared to go to our hotel, drop off our bags, and then sit in their lobby until we could check in. But I had called and spoken to a very nice man at the desk the day before, and he had told me they would do their best to get us into the first room that was cleaned because they were completely sold out the night before we got there. When we arrived yesterday morning around 10:00, he said that they had had one no-show the night before and the room was ours. I could have kissed him. Kathleen needed to go back to bed (after having coughed all night), and I started to think I might be coming down with it as well. Not only did he have room for us, but it was a complete four-room suite. And he didn’t charge us for the upgrade. WHAT A GUY!

Last night, we went to dinner at the home of our good friends Tim & Perry. We met them on a cruise way back in 2010 Down Under, and we have stayed friends ever since. We were at their wedding almost 10 years ago, and we've taken other cruises with them, including meeting them in California. We just don’t get to see them enough. They are the kind of friends you can go five years without seeing, and when you get together, it’s like you saw each other yesterday. Perry made lasagna, and Tim (the baker in the family) made a wonderful pear & ginger cake. And we got to touch base with Mark, who lives with them as well. We had the best time!

We head to the airport around 1:15, and our flight leaves at 4:55, non-stop to Seattle, so we will be home with Keeley the Wonder Dog tonight. We can’t thank Michelle (Kathleen’s daughter) enough for taking care of her for these two weeks.

I have one more post to sum up the trip coming your way, hopefully tomorrow but probably on Tuesday. It will cover food, one place I hadn’t been on the ship until the last day and more. Stick with me.

"I don't give a rat's ass what that orange pumpkin in Washington, D.C., calls it; it is still (and always will be) Lake Ontario. All this Lake America crap can kiss my ass."—Anonymous

Day 10–Detroit, Michigan

Sometimes the best-laid plans go astray. For Detroit, we didn't book any excursions because we wanted to visit Greenfield Village. It's part of the Henry Ford properties. Our plan was to get off the ship, take an Uber or Lyft to the village, spend the afternoon, and then head back.

Little did we know that on October 1, they switched to Winter hours, meaning they were open only on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Since we were there on Tuesday, no Greenfield for us. We tried to find another guide in town, but pretty much everyone we contacted was booked solid. So we decided to do our own little tour.

We got off the ship, walked about three blocks, and found the Detroit People Mover. It's a free, elevated light rail that makes a 20-minute circuit of the city. We got on and rode the entire line, sitting facing each other with a big window behind us. After we completed the route and were back where we boarded, we switched places and did it again. That way we could see what we missed. Total touring time: about forty minutes.

Next, we had heard really good things about The Guardian Building downtown. The entrance was less than 100 yards from where we got off the People Mover, so it was a likely stop. We are certainly glad we did. The exterior (as you can see in my pics) is pretty cool, but the interior of the HUMONGOUS lobby was awe-inspiring (again, see my pictures). After that, most of the group walked back to the ship, but Steve had seen a building that looked to have some pretty cool sculptures on the outside of it, and I could almost see it when we left the Guardian Building, so I set off to take a couple of photos (again, in the photos below).

After that, it was back to the ship for me, with a couple of pictures on the way. One was of an amazing statue of Detroit native boxer Joe Louis’s right arm. That and another statue just about covered my photography for the day…at least until later, when we were sailing away under the brand-new Gordie Howe Bridge linking Detroit, Michigan, USA, to Windsor, Ontario, Canada. Took a few of those as we sailed underneath it.

BTW: If you are wondering why you are getting two posts today, it is because today was the day we were supposed to ride the Special Operations Boats and Zodiacs, but the wind was too high, so we had a sea (lake?) day instead. This ship really isn't equipped for days with nothing happening, so besides some lectures, there was nothing else to do but work on my photos and write. So there you are. Tomorrow is Port Colburne, where we will take a “luxury motor coach” about 40 minutes away to see Niagara Falls. Everyone in our party has already been there, but if I have to stay one more full day onboard, I just might write a novel… and no one wants that.

 

Detroit turned out to be heaven, but it also turned out to be hell. —Marvin Gaye

Day 9–Alpena, Michigan

We power away from Octantis on our glass bottom boat.

If you have been waiting for an exciting visit to Alpena, you are in the wrong place. I mean, it was entirely boring, but to be very honest, I kind of feel ripped off on this one. I guess ripped off might be too strong a word. Maybe disappointed is a better word.

As I mentioned previously, Viking includes a shore excursion at every port. Sometimes (though not often) we see one of their other shore excursions (for which they charge) that appeals to us, and we splurge on that one. Over the years of sailing with them, this has paid off. Our Nuremberg excursions, our Christmas Market river cruise a few years ago come to mind. A superb tour with a great guide.

In Alpena, we decided to take a glass-bottom boat tour to see shipwrecks all around the area. The Great Lakes are famous for shipwrecks, and we thought this would be very cool. The only problem was that it was the last day of the season for the glass-bottom boat, and you could tell the crew was rushing to get through our tour (their last before heading south for the winter) so they could go home and pack. Originally, the captain of the boat had told us we would see three shipwrecks. They mark them with buoys so boats can find them quickly. They try to hover over them, but they don’t always find them. As I said, we were supposed to see three shipwrecks. The first one was totally invisible due to murky waters. The second one, we could see the very tops of something. Not sure what part of a ship it was. Then we headed to the third one, and as we got to where it should be, they announced that someone had removed the buoy, so we would not be seeing this one. That was it. For $154. I would not usually do this, but I am going to give you all the pics I took of the “shipwrecks” just to show you what you will get if you do this excursion. Then you can save yourself a quick $154.

After our shipwreck-viewing adventure, we headed to the Great Lakes Maritime Heritage Center, the headquarters of the Thunder Bay National Marine Sanctuary. We heard all about their work in one of the largest marine sanctuaries in the USA. They help protect nearly 100 historic shipwrecks in Lake Huron, off Michigan’s coast. Through research, education, and community involvement, they’re working to keep these underwater treasures safe for future generations. They also work to stop new invasive marine species and restore the Great Lakes' underwater habitat for native flora and fauna.

We heard about an hour-long talk by their superintendent, a man who is very passionate about his work and an excellent speaker as well. Check out their website by clicking here. They are doing some pretty impressive things up there in Alpena. One reason Viking stops in Alpena is that it partners with the Marine Sanctuary to support education and scientific research.

After the talk, we were back on the tender, headed out to Octantis. It was a fairly uneventful day, and the afternoon off gave me a chance to hit the gym, work on processing photos and do some writing. You can probably tell that from the three quick posts over the last two days. This one will make four.

So here are the photos. Only a couple of them do anything for me photographically. All the green ones are skippable after you see one tiny part of a shipwreck. To be honest, I am not sure what I expected, but certainly more than we saw. Feel free to look at all these on your phones.

Antiquities are history defaced, or some remnants of history which have casually escaped the shipwreck of time.  —Francis Bacon

Day 8–Mackinac Island, Michigan

After sailing through the night, we woke up on beautiful Mackinac Island, Michigan. This is a very different island. No motorized vehicles are allowed anywhere on the island. Everything is horses, horse-drawn vehicles, bikes, and walking. We heard they have an ambulance and a fire truck for emergencies.

It’s a beautiful island, and the people were awesome as well. We were just doing the Viking-included excursion (Viking gives you one free excursion in every port), which was a horse-drawn carriage ride around the main parts of the island. We got to see downtown, the stables, the Grand Hotel (an incredible place with the world’s longest covered porch), and lots of other little sites.

Once we returned from our tour (which lasted about an hour), we were on our own in town. Kathleen did some shopping, and I went off to walk and take pictures, which you can see below. I will let the photos and captions tell you the rest of the story.

You have to get to Mackinac Island once or twice, and, of course, coming up to the Mackinac Bridge is just awesome to me. —Tom Izzo

Day Seven–Viking Octantis

It is not often that we board a new kind of ship. We took our first ocean cruise in 1999 and our first river cruise in 2021. Since then, we've sailed on all kinds of ships, from small riverboats (American Cruise Line, with fewer than 200 passengers) to big ships (Royal Caribbean’s Allure of the Seas, with 6,500+ passengers). During that time, we have sailed on three basic types of ship: ocean, river, and just once on an expedition-type ship (Celebrity’s Flora in the Galapagos). So, when considering this Great Lakes Cruise, one of the big selling points was the chance to sail on an expedition ship again. And I have to say that so far, we are loving Viking Octantis.

If you aren’t a cruise fan, you may find this entire post a snooze. So I won’t blame you if you skip this one. Just sayin’. Come back tomorrow for a report on our last day in Milwaukee while onboard the ship. But if you are even a little interested in what I think is the most beautiful and best-designed ship we have ever sailed on, then by all means read on.

A few ship facts:

  • Octantis accommodates a maximum of 374 guests. Some ships show different numbers depending on how many people are in a stateroom, but since Octantis does not allow children under 18, it limits each stateroom to a maximum of two people, even the biggest suites.
  • Octantis is very thin, only 77 feet across. By contrast, Celebrity Solstice, which we sailed on to Alaska in June, is 121 feet across. On a ship, that makes a difference. In a few days, we will sail through the Welland Canal, which will take the ship to Toronto, then on to Montreal, QuĂ©bec City, and out to the Atlantic. A large cruise ship could not do that.
  • Octantis is four years old. That’s new by ship standards. And she is going into dry dock to keep her that new in just a month or so.
  • She has only seven decks (really eight, but the top deck is crew-only), so it is easy to go up and down.

Enough about facts and figures. Let’s look at the ship from the top down. Of course, her photo is at the top of this page. I took this yesterday when we stopped on Mackinac Island in upper Michigan. She was anchored just offshore, and I had to walk quite a ways to get this shot, so I hope you appreciate it ? 

Deck 6

As you can see from the deck diagram above, Deck 6 is pretty much an open deck. Lots of space to sit and catch some sun, or a great place to take photos. We were up there as we sailed out of Milwaukee. I should add that we were completely alone. Most people had gone to the bow for a sail-away celebration with live music and drinks, but we just wanted the photos, so the six of us were all by our lonesomes up there. Also, on Deck 6 are the BIG suites. The Owner’s Suite you see on the deck plan is more than 700 square feet and has its own private garden area. Seriously. The other suites on that deck are all over 500 square feet. I should point out that Octantis has no verandas/balconies. That would have made her too wide. Instead, you have large windows that open and take up almost the entire width of the stateroom. More about that below when we show you our stateroom.

Deck 5

This deck is completely public. No staterooms. From the front of the ship, my favorite place to sit while writing is the Explorer’s Lounge. Then you run into The Library, followed by The Living Room, a very nice and intimate meeting space, much like your living room at home. It is on two decks (4 and 5), and I am sitting in it right now as I write this. On the starboard side of the ship, you reach Mamsen’s next. This is one of my favorite places to eat breakfast. But I'll talk more about the food later, at the end of the cruise, in my roundup.

Moving aft, you run into the ship’s main restaurant, the World Cafe. Long-time cruisers may be surprised to learn that Octantis and her sister ship Polaris have no main dining room. We'll get to two specialty restaurants below, but the main place to eat is the World Cafe buffet. As I said, more about the food later on, but suffice it to say, it is an amazing buffet. An absolute plethora of choices.

At the aft end of the ship on deck five is the Aquavit Terrace, a very nice bar area that serves The Pools. They are interesting. When I say “The Pools,” you might think of more than one big swimming pool that you would find on a big cruise ship. There are three small ones (about the size of a large hot tub), and each is a different temperature. One is warm, one is cooler, and one is downright cold. Check out the photos; the pictures and captions explain everything.

Deck 4

Our stateroom is on deck four. The entire deck, except the very front, is staterooms. On deck four, there is also the lower level of the Explorer’s Lounge and a launderette. More about our stateroom below. Decks two, three and four all have launderettes (six washers/six dryers and an ironing board—this is crazy for a ship of 374 people when the Ocean ships have three washer/dryers for almost 1,000).Not only that but suites get free laundry done for them. 

Deck 3

Much like decks two and four, this deck is mostly staterooms, but it also has two interesting features. At the very front of the deck, you will find The Bow. Every ship has a bow. It’s the front of the ship. But on most ocean cruise ships, it is not always accessible. Usually it’s reserved for special occasions, like going through the Panama Canal or a glacier day in Alaska. But on Octantis, The Bow is always open. And right behind it is a really cool (or should I say warm) spot called The Shelter. This is mostly for those who go up on The Bow to look at the scenery and then need a place to get warm. Since this ship sails the Arctic in the summer and the Antarctic in the winter, this comes in handy. It’s a cool space—photos below. Midships is a tiny shop that sells Viking-branded merchandise, as well as the office of the “Travel Consultant,” who sells future cruises. I should add that this is the ONLY place on board where you can buy anything. Something I truly appreciate.

At the aft end of deck three is the upper entrance to the Aula. The Aula is the ship’s “theater.” I put that in quotes because there really aren’t any shows. And that’s OK because this is an expedition ship. Instead, there are scientific talks, port presentations and discussions of shore excursions. The room is amazing, with a huge screen that comes down from the ceiling in a most unusual way. When the screen is not down, the room is completely glass-enclosed, and the views are amazing. This is probably much more impressive in the Arctic or Antarctic. Here on the Great Lakes, we just see water. Lots of water. The Aula is two decks high, so you can enter either from deck three or deck two.

Deck 2

This deck is about half staterooms (forward) and half public (midships to aft). After the staterooms at the front, you run into Expedition Central, which focuses on shore excursions and expeditions off the ship. There is also a lot of science going on there, and they hold small-group talks from time to time. Then come the lifeboats (there are four lifeboats, and they each hold 160 people). Since there are 374 passengers and 260 crew members, they can easily accommodate everyone, and they are also used as tenders. I must say, they are the nicest tenders we have ever been on. So clean you could eat off the deck. Impressive.

Behind the lifeboat area are the spa and fitness centers. The spa has all the usual indoor pool amenities, including steam rooms, a snow shower room, saunas, and an indoor pool. There is NO CHARGE to use any of this. There is also a full-service spa where you can get anything from a haircut to a full-body massage. Past the spa is the lower level of The Aula, and beyond that is a deck area called the Finse Terrace. Just a nice place to relax outdoors, looking at the ship’s wake.

Deck 1

This is about half a service deck, which means that area is used for service and crew quarters. At the front of the ship is a small lounge called The Hide. It is called that because you can hide there and no one will find you. Seriously, it is very hard to find. There is only one way down there from deck two, and once you are down there, you are not sure where it is. There is a huge door that looks like it goes into a vault. It’s a cool space, and you can lean out over the windows to look down into the sea. They also use it at night for Expedition Tales, where different members of the Expedition Team tell stories of their adventures.

Midships on Deck 1 are the two specialty restaurants. One is Manfredi’s (an Italian-themed dining room), and the other is The Restaurant, which serves food similar to what you would find in the main dining room of most cruise ships. You need reservations for both of these venues, but eating there is free. We snagged two reservations for each, and at this point we have been to both once. We will go back to The Restaurant in a few nights, but after our experience at Manfredi’s we have decided to skip our other visit. More about that when I write about the food.

Then, all the way at the back of the ship, are The Laboratory and The Hanger. I have not seen them yet, as they are only open during presentations. But they both relate to the expedition side of things. The Hanger houses the ship’s Zodiac fleet, two Special Operations Boats, and two six-man submarines. Yes, submarines. I hope to include photos of these in a couple of days.

Deck A

This is about 90% of the service area. The medical team is stationed at the infirmary and on the lower level of The Hangar. This is also where you board tenders for excursions. Because we visit so many small ports, all our stops except Detroit are tender ports. That means we board a tender (lifeboat) and it takes us to shore.

Our Stateroom

We splurged on this trip and booked a Nordic Junior Suite. It is a really nice stateroom. As far as I am concerned, Viking’s ship and stateroom design are so far ahead of everyone else’s that it’s just not fair. The only comparable stateroom to what we have experienced with Viking is Celebrity’s Flora. That’s it. Below are some photos and above is a floor plan. The floor plan is a little off because they removed the table and replaced it with a desk, which makes more sense. It is a beautiful and very functional room, and I will say more in the photo captions.

If your ship doesn't come in, swim out to it.  —Jonathan Winters