Day Seven–Viking Octantis

It is not often that we board a new kind of ship. We took our first ocean cruise in 1999 and our first river cruise in 2021. Since then, we've sailed on all kinds of ships, from small riverboats (American Cruise Line, with fewer than 200 passengers) to big ships (Royal Caribbean’s Allure of the Seas, with 6,500+ passengers). During that time, we have sailed on three basic types of ship: ocean, river, and just once on an expedition-type ship (Celebrity’s Flora in the Galapagos). So, when considering this Great Lakes Cruise, one of the big selling points was the chance to sail on an expedition ship again. And I have to say that so far, we are loving Viking Octantis.

If you aren’t a cruise fan, you may find this entire post a snooze. So I won’t blame you if you skip this one. Just sayin’. Come back tomorrow for a report on our last day in Milwaukee while onboard the ship. But if you are even a little interested in what I think is the most beautiful and best-designed ship we have ever sailed on, then by all means read on.

A few ship facts:

  • Octantis accommodates a maximum of 374 guests. Some ships show different numbers depending on how many people are in a stateroom, but since Octantis does not allow children under 18, it limits each stateroom to a maximum of two people, even the biggest suites.
  • Octantis is very thin, only 77 feet across. By contrast, Celebrity Solstice, which we sailed on to Alaska in June, is 121 feet across. On a ship, that makes a difference. In a few days, we will sail through the Welland Canal, which will take the ship to Toronto, then on to Montreal, Québec City, and out to the Atlantic. A large cruise ship could not do that.
  • Octantis is four years old. That’s new by ship standards. And she is going into dry dock to keep her that new in just a month or so.
  • She has only seven decks (really eight, but the top deck is crew-only), so it is easy to go up and down.

Enough about facts and figures. Let’s look at the ship from the top down. Of course, her photo is at the top of this page. I took this yesterday when we stopped on Mackinac Island in upper Michigan. She was anchored just offshore, and I had to walk quite a ways to get this shot, so I hope you appreciate it ? 

Deck 6

As you can see from the deck diagram above, Deck 6 is pretty much an open deck. Lots of space to sit and catch some sun, or a great place to take photos. We were up there as we sailed out of Milwaukee. I should add that we were completely alone. Most people had gone to the bow for a sail-away celebration with live music and drinks, but we just wanted the photos, so the six of us were all by our lonesomes up there. Also, on Deck 6 are the BIG suites. The Owner’s Suite you see on the deck plan is more than 700 square feet and has its own private garden area. Seriously. The other suites on that deck are all over 500 square feet. I should point out that Octantis has no verandas/balconies. That would have made her too wide. Instead, you have large windows that open and take up almost the entire width of the stateroom. More about that below when we show you our stateroom.

Deck 5

This deck is completely public. No staterooms. From the front of the ship, my favorite place to sit while writing is the Explorer’s Lounge. Then you run into The Library, followed by The Living Room, a very nice and intimate meeting space, much like your living room at home. It is on two decks (4 and 5), and I am sitting in it right now as I write this. On the starboard side of the ship, you reach Mamsen’s next. This is one of my favorite places to eat breakfast. But I'll talk more about the food later, at the end of the cruise, in my roundup.

Moving aft, you run into the ship’s main restaurant, the World Cafe. Long-time cruisers may be surprised to learn that Octantis and her sister ship Polaris have no main dining room. We'll get to two specialty restaurants below, but the main place to eat is the World Cafe buffet. As I said, more about the food later on, but suffice it to say, it is an amazing buffet. An absolute plethora of choices.

At the aft end of the ship on deck five is the Aquavit Terrace, a very nice bar area that serves The Pools. They are interesting. When I say “The Pools,” you might think of more than one big swimming pool that you would find on a big cruise ship. There are three small ones (about the size of a large hot tub), and each is a different temperature. One is warm, one is cooler, and one is downright cold. Check out the photos; the pictures and captions explain everything.

Deck 4

Our stateroom is on deck four. The entire deck, except the very front, is staterooms. On deck four, there is also the lower level of the Explorer’s Lounge and a launderette. More about our stateroom below. Decks two, three and four all have launderettes (six washers/six dryers and an ironing board—this is crazy for a ship of 374 people when the Ocean ships have three washer/dryers for almost 1,000).Not only that but suites get free laundry done for them. 

Deck 3

Much like decks two and four, this deck is mostly staterooms, but it also has two interesting features. At the very front of the deck, you will find The Bow. Every ship has a bow. It’s the front of the ship. But on most ocean cruise ships, it is not always accessible. Usually it’s reserved for special occasions, like going through the Panama Canal or a glacier day in Alaska. But on Octantis, The Bow is always open. And right behind it is a really cool (or should I say warm) spot called The Shelter. This is mostly for those who go up on The Bow to look at the scenery and then need a place to get warm. Since this ship sails the Arctic in the summer and the Antarctic in the winter, this comes in handy. It’s a cool space—photos below. Midships is a tiny shop that sells Viking-branded merchandise, as well as the office of the “Travel Consultant,” who sells future cruises. I should add that this is the ONLY place on board where you can buy anything. Something I truly appreciate.

At the aft end of deck three is the upper entrance to the Aula. The Aula is the ship’s “theater.” I put that in quotes because there really aren’t any shows. And that’s OK because this is an expedition ship. Instead, there are scientific talks, port presentations and discussions of shore excursions. The room is amazing, with a huge screen that comes down from the ceiling in a most unusual way. When the screen is not down, the room is completely glass-enclosed, and the views are amazing. This is probably much more impressive in the Arctic or Antarctic. Here on the Great Lakes, we just see water. Lots of water. The Aula is two decks high, so you can enter either from deck three or deck two.

Deck 2

This deck is about half staterooms (forward) and half public (midships to aft). After the staterooms at the front, you run into Expedition Central, which focuses on shore excursions and expeditions off the ship. There is also a lot of science going on there, and they hold small-group talks from time to time. Then come the lifeboats (there are four lifeboats, and they each hold 160 people). Since there are 374 passengers and 260 crew members, they can easily accommodate everyone, and they are also used as tenders. I must say, they are the nicest tenders we have ever been on. So clean you could eat off the deck. Impressive.

Behind the lifeboat area are the spa and fitness centers. The spa has all the usual indoor pool amenities, including steam rooms, a snow shower room, saunas, and an indoor pool. There is NO CHARGE to use any of this. There is also a full-service spa where you can get anything from a haircut to a full-body massage. Past the spa is the lower level of The Aula, and beyond that is a deck area called the Finse Terrace. Just a nice place to relax outdoors, looking at the ship’s wake.

Deck 1

This is about half a service deck, which means that area is used for service and crew quarters. At the front of the ship is a small lounge called The Hide. It is called that because you can hide there and no one will find you. Seriously, it is very hard to find. There is only one way down there from deck two, and once you are down there, you are not sure where it is. There is a huge door that looks like it goes into a vault. It’s a cool space, and you can lean out over the windows to look down into the sea. They also use it at night for Expedition Tales, where different members of the Expedition Team tell stories of their adventures.

Midships on Deck 1 are the two specialty restaurants. One is Manfredi’s (an Italian-themed dining room), and the other is The Restaurant, which serves food similar to what you would find in the main dining room of most cruise ships. You need reservations for both of these venues, but eating there is free. We snagged two reservations for each, and at this point we have been to both once. We will go back to The Restaurant in a few nights, but after our experience at Manfredi’s we have decided to skip our other visit. More about that when I write about the food.

Then, all the way at the back of the ship, are The Laboratory and The Hanger. I have not seen them yet, as they are only open during presentations. But they both relate to the expedition side of things. The Hanger houses the ship’s Zodiac fleet, two Special Operations Boats, and two six-man submarines. Yes, submarines. I hope to include photos of these in a couple of days.

Deck A

This is about 90% of the service area. The medical team is stationed at the infirmary and on the lower level of The Hangar. This is also where you board tenders for excursions. Because we visit so many small ports, all our stops except Detroit are tender ports. That means we board a tender (lifeboat) and it takes us to shore.

Our Stateroom

We splurged on this trip and booked a Nordic Junior Suite. It is a really nice stateroom. As far as I am concerned, Viking’s ship and stateroom design are so far ahead of everyone else’s that it’s just not fair. The only comparable stateroom to what we have experienced with Viking is Celebrity’s Flora. That’s it. Below are some photos and above is a floor plan. The floor plan is a little off because they removed the table and replaced it with a desk, which makes more sense. It is a beautiful and very functional room, and I will say more in the photo captions.

If your ship doesn't come in, swim out to it.  —Jonathan Winters

 

Day Seven–Bonus Early Morning Pics for You

On day seven, we boarded Viking Octantis, but before we did that, I took an early morning walk because we had heard the Milwaukee Art Museum is a magnificent work of architecture. Those people were right. I didn’t want to include this with our introduction to the ship.

The biggest surprise of this trip (so far) is what a great city Milwaukee is. It is a given that we are seeing it on a beautiful fall day and not during a winter blizzard. But it’s one of the few cities we have been to in the USA where Kathleen said, “I could live here…except for the winters.” The people have been awesome; the city is a very wonderful mix of homes and downtown. And it’s all so close together. I know I am not making total sense here, so just know that Milwaukee is a great town. We enjoyed. I like it because it is photogenic.

At any rate,  here are the photos I took that morning. Enjoy! Don't forget: if you click the first shot, you can scroll through using your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE... don't look at my photography on a phone. Please...

 

“It was sunsets that taught me that beauty sometimes only lasts for a couple of moments, and it was sunrises that showed me that all it takes is patience to experience it all over again.” — A.J. Lawless 

Day 6—Our full day in Milwaukee

We had a full day planned for Thursday in Milwaukee. We were doing a food tour from 11:00 am to 2:00 pm with Milwaukee Food Tours, and we were scheduled to take an afternoon historical boat cruise on the Milwaukee River with Edelweiss Cruises. I say scheduled because they called that morning and canceled. I asked for the reason for the cancellation, and they said we were the only ones signed up for that day’s tour. Sorry, but if you have people signed up, you go. That’s a contract with those people. Sadly, the only other river tour company operated only on weekends, and we would be on our ship by then. If you plan a trip with Edelweiss, don't go on a weekday.

But that’s the way it goes. We woke up to another day of rain in the forecast, but we didn't let it deter us. We Lyfted over to the Milwaukee Public Market (above) to meet our guide, Paul. First, let me say that Paul is an awesome guide. He's not only good at talking about Milwaukee, but you can tell he loves his hometown. It really shows. He is also a photographer and teaches photography, so he and I had a lot in common.

We had booked the Streetcar Food Tour, which we learned means you try an appie (cheese curds—a Wisconsin delicacy) at one place, move to Apertivo restaurant for your lunch entrée, and then go somewhere else for dessert. Along the way, you board Milwaukee’s free streetcar, known as The Hop, and Paul gives you a tour of Milwaukee along the entire route. Great idea, right? It does work great right up until you get on the streetcar (which runs on rails), when someone parks their car over those rails, so you sit in one spot for about half an hour while they try to get a tow truck to tow the truck.

They finally gave up and let us off. We were supposed to have toured the entire city in that time and come back to a spot about a block away. So we walked that block and had dessert at a Belgian restaurant. Something decadent and chocolate. By the time we were done, two things had happened. We had reached the end of our time with Paul, and the streetcar had started running again. We decided to take it and see what we could of the town, but Paul insisted that he was going to come along and spend another 45 minutes telling us all about his town. Talk about going above and beyond—a truly great guy and guide.

After we got back from the tour, we were kind of happy the boat tour had been canceled because we were supposed to have had a good two hours between the two, but after the delay, we would have had to transition to the boat almost immediately. As it was, we went back to the hotel; Cathy, Mike, Kathleen, and I went out to a Mediterranean place for dinner and then hit the hay.

Here are some pics I took that day. Mostly food and such. Don't forget: if you click the first shot, you can scroll through using your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE... don't look at my photography on a phone. Please...

"Laughter is brightest in the place where food is good." — Irish Proverb

Day five–We transition to Milwaukee

Not much to say about this day. After four days of perfect weather, we woke up to a torrential downpour. Cats and dogs time. We had another Starbucks breakfast (I had to go back and see Pablo), packed up, and I walked a couple of blocks in the rain to Enterprise Car Rentals, grabbed a great big Jeep Wagoneer, got lost on the way back to pick up everyone, and then we were on the road. To the right is the only photo I took with my camera all day. I am sure if it hadn't been raining cats and dogs, there would have been more. All the rest are from my phone.

I want to take a minute here to acknowledge Enterprise Car Rentals. I used to skip them because I just was not happy with them. I am not sure why, but I have kind of always rented cars like I buy some stuff. They are all as good as the other company. And for some reason, Enterprise was not my favorite. But they are now. The last three times I rented, it was from them, and pickup went well each time. But this time they outdid themselves. I had picked up the car in Chicago for a one-day rental at 9:30 am. That meant I did not have to return it until 9:30 am the next day. Also, when I picked it up, it had a quarter of a tank of gas. The manager at pickup told me to return it with a quarter tank, and we would be all set. I ended up putting just under half a tank in it and hadn't used that much of it by the time we arrived in Chicago.

I had also planned to keep the car until the next morning so we could drive to dinner, but that changed when I found out it cost $50 to park at the hotel and the restaurant was about four blocks away. So I decided to return the car early. When I got there to return it, the manager of the Milwaukee branch told me that since I returned it early, she was going to refund $50 of my rental, and she saw I had extra gas (above that quarter of a tank), so she credited me for that. Unbelievable.

You can drive from Chicago to Milwaukee in about an hour and forty minutes on Interstate 94, but we left Chicago at 10:30 and couldn’t check into our hotel in Milwaukee until 3:00 pm. So I was determined to drive along the shore of Lake Michigan as much as possible, which meant asking Siri for continuous directions to the next point north. If you tried to skip a spot on the shoreline, she would take you out to the Interstate because it was “faster.” We didn’t want fast.

So we drove through some amazing neighborhoods, saw a cool lighthouse, and wound up in Racine, Wisconsin, where we met Steve and Jamie for lunch at a local joint, the Bridge Tender Tavern, where I finally got that other Chicago iconic food (which Wisconsin claims belongs to them), the Tavern-style, cracker-crust pizza. Delicious!

After lunch, we finished our drive north to Milwaukee and to our home for the last two nights before we board the ship, Saint Kate—The Arts Hotel. This is a very cool hotel that is entirely FILLED with art. There is art everywhere. They have a huge gallery in the lobby, and there are art installations all over the hotel, including in every room. Also, in every room is a ukulele and a Victrola record player. Seriously. The hotel is beautiful, and the beds are vastly superior to those in the Airbnb in Chicago. Sadly, the pillows are horrid. More and more, I have come to believe that the older you get, the more you need to sleep in your own bed, which is a problem for those who love to travel.

We had reservations for dinner at Zerlattii, which the Eater website called “the best Italian restaurant in Milwaukee.” Apparently, there are not many Italian restaurants, so this one was just “fine.” Or maybe I am now ruined for all future restaurant meals because of our dinner at Rose Mary? Could be ?.

That about covers our transition day. I have a few rainy photos for you, and that’s it. I am including a few other photos I took with my iPhone as I walked back after returning the car and of the Saint Kate lobby to show you their cool galleries. But I am writing this at 4:28 am on Saturday morning. I am aboard Viking’s Octantis, and WOW! What a ship. More about that later. Not to mention our full day in Milwaukee.

 

Day four in Chicago—walk, Buckingham Fountain, Chicago Cultural Center, dinner and an Improv show at Second City

This was our last full day in Chicago as we were heading up to Milwaukee the next morning. We had purposely not planned anything for the day so we could fill in what we had missed. I still got up early that morning and headed out to see what photographic opportunities awaited me. I walked about 3/4 miles to the Buckingham Fountain at 6:00 am, only to find it was turned off until 8:00 am. Had to go back later. But you can still see the photos below for the fruits of my early-morning traipsing around.

As for the rest of the day, Kathleen stayed in. We had already done too much walking on this trip for her poor knee. Mike, Cathy, and I went across the street to the Chicago Cultural Center to see the exhibits, but mostly to see the incredible building. I would say more, but this is a case where the photos and captions will do a better job. See below. Don't forget: if you click the first shot, you can scroll through using your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE... don't look at my photography on a phone. Please... (WOW! I haven’t said that on this whole trip yet, but keep it in mind.)

After we visited the Cultural Center, we walked Cathy back to the Airbnb, and Mike and I set off to take photos of the Buckingham Fountain, which our guide on Day two told us was the largest fountain in the USA or the World…I don’t remember which. I am sure Mike will remind me. It is a pretty spectacular fountain. We got those (see below) and headed back because we had big plans for the evening.

First was dinner at Corcoran’s Irish Pub, which turned out to be our least favorite so far, especially after our experience at Rose Mary the night before. Just kind of sad. My brother Steve and his wife Jamie joined us for dinner and afterward. Afterward, we went across the street to see the current production of the world-famous improv troop—Second City. If you are unfamiliar with Second City, it is easily the most prolific contributor of cast members to Saturday Night Live. Dan Aykroyd, John Belushi, Phil Hartman, Tina Fey, Amy Poehler, Seth Myers, and a lot more started there. The show was knockout funny, and we had a great time. It didn’t end until around 10:00, and then we had a Lyft incident that I won’t go into, but it kind of capped the evening poorly. We had to get to bed because we were driving to Milwaukee early the next morning.

"I went down to Chicago to try to go into a place called Second City. I auditioned for that and got in pretty quickly, but I couldn't stop partying. They gave me a warning: 'If you do it again, we're gonna kick you off the main stage."—Chris Farley