El Escorial and Segovia—What An Amazing Day!

by | Oct 15, 2024 | Uncategorized

This was another long day—a very long day. Mike had found us an outstanding tour guide who would take us north to see two incredible places: the monastery at El Escorial and the town (with castle and more) of Segovia.

To start the day, I slept in. I know—me? Sleeping in? Well, it was only until 5:45, but that’s late for me. What was GREAT for me was getting a full night’s sleep after waking up the day before at 1:45 a.m. But that’s why your post for yesterday was delayed.

We met for breakfast at the hotel at 8:00, were picked up by our wonderful driver, Guillermo, at 9:00 and were off in Madrid traffic to our destinations today—the monastery at El Escorial and the town of Segovia. Word of warning here: I took a lot of photos yesterday, and I could not decide which ones I liked the most, so you will be seeing a lot of them.

Guillermo got us to the monastery on time, and our guide for the day, Coral, met us. Her name is Coral (like reefs are made from), but it is pronounced like the OK Corral. No matter how her name sounded, she was excellent. And we had her for the entire day (except lunch), making our experience more personal and engaging.

I could spend a lot of time telling you about the monastery, but it would be easier if you were interested in its significance in Spanish history and checked out their website by clicking here. I will give you the rundown through my photos, and hopefully, that will intrigue you enough to get you to research a little more or perhaps be lucky enough to tour it with Coral someday. So, without further ado, here’s El Escorial in my photos with captions. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…

I need to mention that the most amazing room (for me) was down a narrow, winding set of stairs to the actual burial chamber of the most important Kings and Queens of Spain. No photography was allowed from the time we started down the stairs until we came back up again, but I did steal this photo online so you could see what you missed.

If you’re interested at all, please make sure to click the link to the monastery I posted above.

After we finished touring the monastery, it was time to travel to Segovia, where we would have lunch next to a Roman aqueduct and see the most fantastic castle. The ride from El Escorial to Segovia took about 45 minutes (the ride from Madrid to El Escorial had taken about an hour with traffic). Coral did not come with us in the van but said she would meet us at the restaurant right after lunch.

When we arrived in Segovia, we were going to lunch at Mesón de Candido, a very old restaurant…probably the most famous in Segovia because it sat right at the bottom of the Roman aqueduct. At this point, it is time for some aqueduct and Segovia square photos because words can’t describe it. Maybe my captions can.

Lunch was wonderful. We ate outside. The only drawback to eating outside in Spain is the smoke. Cigarettes are still prevalent here, especially when around Asian tour groups who seem to have no problem surrounding you with smokers. We were seated under umbrellas in the square, and at one point, when it started drizzling, non-customer tourists surrounded us, many smoking like chimneys. It’s kind of a sad way to ruin a good meal.

After lunch, Coral found us again, and we told her how truly impressive the Segovian aqueduct was to us, and she said, “Just wait.” She wasn’t kidding. Our next stop was a short break to an incredible site below the Alcázar de Segovia castle. This was an authentic medieval castle, but when you see it, you start thinking that maybe someone in Segovia ordered up a Hollywood castle, just like you would see in the movies. Well, it’s not a set. It’s real, and it’s incredible. Not only was the castle impressive, but from there, the views in every direction were astounding. (I know, that’s a lot of superlatives, but look at the photos and tell me I am exaggerating.) Here are the rest of the shots I took in front and inside this amazing edifice.

All I can say to sum up this wonderful day is WOW! From start to finish, we had a fantastic time. A great driver, a very comfortable van (not a “luxury motor coach”), a superb tour guide, a great lunch and so many incredible sights. It was just a totally WOW day.

In Spain, the dead are more alive than the dead of any other country in the world.  — Federico Garcia Lorca

Marching Around Madrid

by | Oct 15, 2024 | Uncategorized

So far on this trip, I have been a very frustrated photographer. It’s not that I haven’t been able to take any photos. On the contrary, I have taken more than 1,000. But what is frustrating is that I have been unable to do my early morning photo walks and get pictures when the light is at its best. Regular readers know I love to shoot during the “blue hour” and the “golden hour.” Well, those barely exist in Madrid or in all of Spain because of a little-known time anomaly. It seems that sometime in the past, the Spaniards were trying to make peace with the British and one of the things they did to show how much they loved all things British was put themselves in the same time zone as Great Britain when actually they should be about a time zone and a half further east. So, if you fly straight north from here, you would be in Warsaw, Poland, but the time here correlates to London. This means that sunrise today was around 8:30 am. That’s too late for me to be out shooting photos when we have to be heading our on tours at 9:00. Yesterday, I was about a mile away and thought it was still around 6:30, and it turned out to be 7:50, and I was supposed to meet the rest of the group for breakfast at 8:00. YIKES…so I walked really fast and barely made it back—only a little late. Let me toss in the early morning shots I did get right here. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…

After we finished the breakfast that I was late for; it was time to leave the hotel for a one-of-a-kind Madrid experience—churros and chocolate. We had heard (YouTube videos) that there were two places famous for their churros and the hot chocolate you dip them into. The oldest and most famous is Chocolatería San Ginés. I found it on my early morning walk, so I led the gang down to try out the churros dipped in what is pretty much melted chocolate. It was awesome. But on the way down, Kathleen’s knee and neuropathy started giving her problems, so she and I walked back up to the hotel (the nearest Uber or Bolt was 20 minutes away) while the rest of the group walked ahead to find our guide for the day.

Speaking of walking, I did a lot of walking yesterday. My Map My Walk/Run app shows that I walked more than ten miles. Some of my walking was for exercise and photography reasons, but we had also booked a walking tour of Madrid through a company called The Tour Guy.

The Tour Guy company is a tour broker who books tours with different companies worldwide to do tours in a particular place…in this case, Madrid. Mike had used them before in other locations. Those who have read my posts in the past, you know that I am a massive fan of Tours by Locals, but since Mike had booked with them before, we went with them. I made the booking because if you are booking with The Tour Guy for the first time, you get a discount.

Our tour was assigned to a company called Touring Pandas. Even though we got a local guide, I did some checking this morning and the tour company we were brokered out to is based in Korea. That in itself is interesting.

I say all this to preface that we had a good tour guide. Her name was Taylor, and she is from Newcastle, England. She spoke with a beautiful British accent and has lived in Madrid for four years. She knew all about the city and shared great tips with us for food and drink after the tour.

The two anchor spots of this tour (places you really want to see and learn more about) are the Royal Palace and the Prado Art Museum. So we started by walking around, catching fun and exciting parts of Madrid between our meeting spot in the Puerta Del Sol and our big morning stop, the Palace. Everything was great right up until that point.

Then, the big surprise. Taylor told us that after we got in (with our pre-paid tickets—buy yours before you go because otherwise, the wait is very long), we could rent audio guides that would take us through the entire Palace. Mike said, “Well, we won’t need those since you will give us a live tour.” Taylor said, “No, I don’t come in with you. I’ll leave you here to tour the Palace and then have lunch on your own. I will meet you in a park on the other side of Madrid at 3:00 pm. We will tour the park, and then I will take you to the Prado, where you have pre-reserved tickets, and you will tour The Prado on your own as well.” You could have knocked me over with a feather. I know Mike was surprised as well. We had paid for an eight-hour tour (it says that on our reservation), but this meant we were getting about a three-hour tour.

That’s different from what we were looking for. We wanted what we had the day before with Fernando in Toledo: a guide who was with us from the time we got out of our van until we finished at the end of the day, who took us into museums and cathedrals and didn’t just drop us off outside of them.

But when Taylor arrived on time, she told us a lot about the Plaza del Sol, where the tour started, and the Bear and Strawberry Tree statue where we met. Then we left the plaza and headed towards Plaza Mayor, The Mercado, the Basilica, and finally winding up at the Palace, where we had tickets to the tour that I mentioned above. At this point, I was feeling bad about Kathleen being stuck in the hotel all by herself, and I knew she wouldn’t want to go out to lunch alone, so I decided to buzz through the Palace fairly quickly and head back to the hotel to take her out to lunch somewhere near the hotel while the rest of the group took a leisurely stroll through on their tour. Here are my photos from the morning part of the tour and my zoom through the Palace (the photo at the top of this page is the Spanish throne room). Enjoy, and you know the drill.

I should say that it was INCREDIBLY difficult to buzz through the Palace because it has a lot of choke points where the thousands of Asian tour groups just seemed to stop to listen to their guide in their earpieces…but at least they had a guide.

After I finally got out of there, I was off to the hotel and surprised Kathleen by taking her to an Italian place just down the block from the hotel so she didn’t have to walk very far. We had a nice lunch, and then after I got her back to the hotel, I walked off to meet up with Taylor and the rest of the gang at El Retiro Park, which is Madrid’s answer to New York’s Central Park. It is truly a beautiful place, as I hope you will see in my photos. By the way, the weather yesterday was hit or miss. It started out OK, switched to cloudy and cool, the sun finally came out, and within 20 minutes, it was threatening rain again. Go figure.

When I got to El Retiro Park, Taylor walked us around, saying she would take us to the Prado and drop us off there. To be honest, at that point I had been up since 1:30 am, I had walked more than nine miles and I am not that big a fan of Spanish art. So I bid my farewells and walked my way back to the hotel. The other four of our group had a very nice time seeing the Prado and made it back in time for all of us to go out for tapas at another place down the street. They have excellent food and what has become a favorite drink, vermouth on the rocks with lemon. We are sitting on our bed at the hotel (after our day—today—in Segovia—more about that tomorrow), drinking two of them. Let’s finish up our day in Madrid with my afternoon photos. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…

That about did it for our day in Madrid. Today (I am writing this at about 8:00 pm on Tuesday), we were in Segovia, and it was AWESOME! We fly to Lisbon tomorrow to start our Viking portion of the trip tomorrow. More about all of that soon.

I never heard anyone say anything bad about Madrid.  —Antonio Ruddier

 

Transfixed by Toledo

by | Oct 13, 2024 | Uncategorized

I know. How can anyone be transfixed by Toledo? When it’s Toledo, Spain, that’s easy. Yesterday, that was our destination. Mike had arranged a tour through Destina Toledo for a full day excursion to Toledo, including round-trip transportation to and from our hotel here in Madrid and one of the best guides we have ever toured with (and that’s a lot of guides!).

We were waiting at the door of the hotel’s breakfast room when it opened at 8:00 a.m., had another excellent breakfast, got our stuff, and our driver met us right outside the hotel. It’s around a one-hour drive without traffic to Toledo, and since it was fairly early on a Sunday morning, we didn’t have any traffic at all. So quick as a flash, we were pulling into Toledo, where we met our incredible guide, Fernando.

Fernando and our driver did a wonderful job mixing touring in our luxury Mercedes van with walking. This really helps in a city built on a hill. Kathleen told me that when she first saw the city from far away, she was sure that she would be spending most of the day in the van. But it worked out reasonably well, and her knee was able to handle the walking that we did. It was pretty sore when we got back, so she iced it up and took her pain pill, and hopefully, she will be OK for today’s tour of Madrid.

When we met Fernando, he first suggested we hop out of the van and take photos of the entrance gate to the city. That’s the photo you see at the top of this post. Then it was back in the van and up the hill to two incredible viewpoints. One that showed us the Tagus River as it wound around the outside of Toledo, forming a natural moat-like boundary that repelled many a historical enemy of the city. Then, it was to a hill where the entire city was visible. Of course, Fernando was also willing to be our photographer by taking the whole group’s photo with this amazing city in the background.

Here are a few more photos I took at these first two stops. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…

After our viewpoint stops, we headed back down the hill on the opposite side to begin our walking tour through the Jewish Quarter of old Toledo. It included some pretty interesting stuff: a Jewish synagogue, Jesus playing with his hula-hoop, a statue in white face, the world’s largest (as verified by the Guinness Book of World Records) marzipan statue and an art museum with a single painting by Toledo’s native son—El Greco. I think I can say this part a whole lot better in photos. You know my spiel. No phones! Slide show…etc.

After all that touring, we were getting pretty hungry, and to our total amazement (and Fernando’s skill), we wound up standing in front of the restaurant where I had made our lunch reservations at exactly 1:00 pm when they opened. The place is called Clandestine. We were quickly seated, met our server Jamie, and began a lunch that I will rank among this year’s top ten dining experiences. The eatery had come from a recommendation the tour company had sent us before, so we were still determining what to expect, but we got more food, wine and laughter than we deserved. There was so much food that no one ate again for the rest of that day and night. We were too full. We started with a beautiful Spanish rioja. The wine, which we intend to look for at home, was perfect. It was so perfect that we had to order another bottle. They then brought us a bowl of some of the best Spanish olives we have ever had and some whole-grain bread that we could dip into their incredible olive oil (at that point, the olive oil was the star of my meal). Jamie (the waiter—not to be confused with my sister-in-law Jamie) made some great recommendations, and we wound up with some superb entrées. Check out the photos below. Feel free to look at any of our food shots on your phone. That’s how we took them. Oh, and the desserts (which we split) were also excellent.

After lunch, it was down the hill to visit our last stop, the main cathedral of Toledo. This was the highlight for Mike because he loves taking pictures of churches. My other best friend (hi Bob) and I love kidding him about all the church photos. If you don’t believe me, wait until we are back and he posts his review/report of this trip, and you will see what I mean. I promise to come back and tell you when he does so you can see more of this incredible church. In the meantime, here are a few photos from your humble photographer ?.

After we were done inside (we were there for more than an hour), we went back outside to the square behind the cathedral to wait for our driver to pick us up. While we were waiting, there were throngs of people all around us, and with nothing better for me to do, I engaged in one of my favorite things—street photography. So here I present random shots of people who, one day (long after I am gone), my kids will wonder, “Who the hell are these people?” ?.

Sorry, no captions. Just the faces of Toledo visitors. Some I liked more than others, but all were good subjects. I took about three times as many as you see here. And one fellow perfectly typified how we all felt at the end of our very long day in Toledo. And here he is.

We got back to Madrid between 5:00 and 6:00 p.m., and I made the mistake of trying to work through all my photos and then falling asleep before 7:30 (I think we are all still adjusting to the time change). However, that turned out OK because I woke up at 2:00 a.m., finished the photos and wrote this post.

In summary, if you come to Madrid, go to Toledo, be guided by Fernando, have lunch at Clandestine, ask to sit at Jamie’s table, drink the right rioja, and take some great photos, you will (as we did) have had an awesome day.

Spain is a fascinating mix of people, languages, culture and food, but if there is one thing all Spaniards share, it’s a love of food and drink.       —Jose Andres

How I create my photos

by | Jul 3, 2024 | Photography

I have had a number of people both here on my blog and on Cruise Critic comment…

  • Many of you have been curious about my photography process. You’ve asked, ‘How do I take my photos? What kind of camera do I use? What type of lens?’ Some of you even wondered if I’m using a camera at all or just my phone.
  • One of the most common questions I get is about how I manage to process and share my photos while on a cruise. It’s definitely a unique challenge, but I’ve developed a system that works for me.
  • Others also want to know any travel photo tips I might have.

My buddy Mike Preisman always has his equipment at the bottom of every page of his website. I don’t, so here are the answers, along with commentary (did you expect any less) about my photo process. This will get a little geeky for some of you, so please feel free to ignore this post.

My Gear

I have been a Nikon guy since I went digital. I chose Nikon because of one thing. My son-in-law had a Nikon, and I figured we could borrow each other’s lenses. This was back in 1999, and we have only done that once. Get the camera you like. Get a lens that works for you. I am part of a group on Reddit who are Nikon users. One of my biggest criticisms of those who are in the group is that they are too concerned with what gear to buy. More than half the posts are about what lens or camera body to buy.

I shoot a mirrorless Nikon Z7II. I have been using it since fall 2022. It’s the best camera I have ever owned (Don’t sweat if you don’t know what a mirrorless camera is.)

One of the things I get a lot of flack about from the Nikon groups is that I only carry one lens. I have seen people walking around ships or on the streets with a camera bag with 2, 3, 4 or more lenses. I just won’t do it. That’s too much to carry everywhere I go. I carry a zoom lens so that I can take large landscapes as well as close-ups and distant subjects. Up until just before this trip, I was using a 28-300mm zoom lens from Nikon. It was a great lens, but I needed a new one because it was from my old digital lens reflex camera, and I had to use an adapter to use it. That not only added weight to what I was carrying around but it was one more thing my images could be affected by when shooting. But Nikon did me one better and brought out a 28-400mm lens, and I love it! What an awesome camera and lens combo for a travel photographer. What am I getting with this lens? The ability to carry one lens.

The only other thing I feel important if you are a travel photographer is the right strap. I see people carrying these huge cameras either in their hands or around their necks. The only strap you get from a camera manufacturer is a neck strap. The only thing a neck strap does is give you a sore neck. When your camera and lens combo weigh almost five pounds, any chiropractor will tell you are nuts to hang that around your neck. So, I found a great strap years ago. It’s called a Blackrapid strap. It attaches to your camera on the bottom, where you screw the connector into the tripod mount. Then, it hangs off a cross-body strap (see the illustration.) and rides on your hip. The only problem I have with it is that mine is getting old, and they don’t have the exact same one I do because mine has a small pocket on the front that was built to put a flip phone in (that’s how old it is ?) and I keep my extra battery in there. I hate having it in my pocket, so I will probably have this one forever.

One last thing about camera gear: Don’t ever say this to a photographer: “WOW! I love your pictures. What kind of camera do you use?” Before you say that, consider this: Would you ask a chef of a great meal what kind of pan he cooks with? It’s the same thing as far as I am concerned. I believe I take great travel photos because I practice a lot, take classes and shoot great stuff. One of my favorite photographic gurus is Scott Kelby. When Scott was asked what gear someone should buy to be a better photographer, Scott told them not to buy anything but to spend the same amount of money to go someplace awesome. His mantra is, “If you want to take amazing photos, stand in front of amazing places.” I agree.

My Process

I have developed a pretty specific process for taking, rating, processing and improving my photos. First, I always shoot photos in RAW format. Ninety percent of photographers shoot in JPEG format. When I shoot in RAW, I get a digital negative. But that means that I can’t show you any photo I have taken until I process it. That takes time. I process all my photos through a process.

Second, when shooting, I go back and forth on my camera between my Program mode and Manual mode. When I am in full sunlight and have lots of light, I shoot in Program mode, on my camera that’s pretty much as close to automatic as you get. When I shoot early in the morning or late at night or in low light/bad weather, I want complete control of the camera, so it’s manual for that. And once in a blue moon, I will switch to one of the other two modes. If I am going to shoot action (maybe my granddaughter’s softball game), I switch to Shutter priority to ensure I freeze the action. When I want to isolate a subject, I might switch to Aperture mode to do that.

So I shoot photos and then put them in my MacBook Pro. Yes, that means I carry around a full-size laptop with me. I mentioned that my camera weighs almost five pounds, but my camera/computer bag weighs nearly 35 pounds. I try never to carry it but to always move it on top of either my or Kathleen’s carry-on roller bag.

As soon as I have time, I copy the images to a folder for that day, and then I open Adobe Bridge. Most photographers use Lightroom to process photos, but I started doing photography when I was a graphic designer, and we like Bridge. You can use any software; you just need one that lets you see the entire photo on a full screen. I go through my photos pretty quickly the first time. When I shot the 600+ photos on the day we were in Gearanger I needed to have a quick way to get through them. I call what I do “photo triage.” I go through my pics in pretty much a hurry. And when I see what one I like and want to come back and look at again, I hit the five key on my Mac. If I see a photo that I might like if I worked on it, I hit the four key. If I see one that goes into a specific category (like photos with family in them) I hit the three key. This adds a rating to the photo.

Then, I go through each of the ones tagged with a five and process them in the Adobe app Camera Raw. First, I set the white balance and exposure, and then, if the photo warrants it, I might add some clarity or vibrance. I also might up the sharpening. And if the sky is dead (that happens a lot), I might dehaze it a little.

Once I have done all the 5s, I look at the 4s again. If any are one-of-a-kind shots that I have to have, I will do my best to fix them. After that, I might work on the family pics, but I often transfer them to another folder to work on when I get home because I hardly ever use them on my blog.

Now I have all the Camera RAW files the way I want them; I have to turn them into JPEGs so they can be uploaded to the web. Luckily for me, there is a wonderful extension for Bridge and Photoshop (and I believe you can use it in Lightroom as well) called Image Processor. All I have to do is select all my five photos and tell Bridge to run them through Image Processor. The extension created a folder called JPEG within my existing folder and turned them all into high-end JPEGs. But I am still not done at this point. This whole process takes about 10 minutes of automated work on 50 photos.

I then open up an amazing piece of software called Topaz Photo AI. This is the most fantastic software ever because it goes through all the photos in the JPEG folder and looks at them to see what might be improved, and then it uses AI to fix them. It is amazing with noise and sharpening. Just amazing. But this takes a little time—about 20 minutes for 50 photos.

Lastly, I have to shrink the photos. I could upload the original Topazed photos, but they are HUGE! The average size of the JPEG file after being run through Topaz is more than 15 megabytes. If I had to upload those size files, I would never have gotten a single picture online to add to the blog. And to see them in all their glory on a digital screen, you don’t need the high resolution. This means that they must be shrunk. To do that, I created a script in Photoshop to do that. It opens the larger file, shrinks it to a smaller size (usually about 2 megabytes) and saves the file. It is quick, and I don’t have to do anything while it runs. Fifty photos take about two minutes. Amazing.

Now I can start writing my post and adding the photos. But when do I do all this on a cruise? First thing in the morning. I am not a big sleeper. I get to sleep right away, but my need for sleep is less than most. I usually get by on six hours. So that means I am generally awake between 4:00 a.m. and 5:00 a.m. I grab my laptop and head up to the upstairs of the Explorer’s Lounge, sit on one of two couches, take my shoes off, put my feet up and sometimes I process photos and then write and design the post. Hopefully, I get done with it before Kathleen wakes up around 6:30 and texts me that she is up and out of the shower. I also squeeze in some time in the afternoons.

If you liked the photos I posted for this trip, I invite you to take a look at my portfolio. Just click the link in the menu bar above to see my best stuff.

Photography is a way of feeling, of touching, of loving. What you have caught on film is captured forever… it remembers little things, long after you have forgotten everything.  —Aaron Suskin