Johannesburg and Africa’s People

by Jim Bellomo | Jul 22, 2025 | Uncategorized

I’m not sure if you’re aware, but I always include a quote at the bottom of each post that relates to the topic. I just Google “quotes about xxxx,” and use the one I find that best fits my topic. Yesterday, when I was looking to find one to finish our first day in Johannesburg, I found one about South Africa in general. But when I was looking for it, I found the quote below by, of all people, the actor Ryan Phillipe. And it pretty much encapsulates what I want to say about Johannesburg, South Africa and pretty much the people of Africa everywhere we went. Here’s the quote:

Working in South Africa, the people in Johannesburg get under your skin. It stays with you. It’s a place I want to take my children back to. It’s a place that filled me with great joy and inspiration, but also sadness. I think it’s one of the most complex places on the planet.   —Ryan Phillippe

Editor’s Note: No trip we’ve ever taken has affected me like this one did. And I realize that this discussion will seem like I have a point I can’t get to. So  as much as I want you to read and understand how I feel, I won’t hold it against you if you skip all the text and look at the pictures. 

When we first arrived in Cape Town, we drove from the airport to the tourist area near the harbor where we were staying. On the ride in, we noticed a number of areas that were in what I (at that time) would consider extreme poverty. Our driver explained that those were areas where the poor lived. He told us in no uncertain terms to stay out of those areas unless accompanied by someone familiar with them. We had been told the same thing by our friends at home — that certain areas were worse or slightly dangerous than others.

First, I want to mention that every South African (and those from Namibia, Zimbabwe and Botswana) we spoke to were the most open and honest people we have ever met (as a group). They were willing to discuss their countries’ triumphs and failures, as well as their foibles and achievements. We had more open and frank discussions with a wide range of people, from our guides and drivers to ship directors and nearly anyone we asked questions of. Never have I felt or heard such openness about a country I was visiting from that country’s people.

This is Delia. She guides people around a country she loves—South Africa. She is an amazing woman whom I greatly admire.

Foremost among those open to discussion was our guide, Delia. Her insights into the facts of apartheid, as well as her discussion on how far things have come and how far they still have to go to achieve true racial equality, were truly interesting and a shock to me. I am still not sure I am ready to write about it, but I do look forward to discussing it. Then, when we reached Johannesburg, our city guide, Beverleigh, joined us for dinner on our last night at the hotel, and that table for seven was one of the most eye-opening and intense conversations I have ever had while traveling.

Let’s get back to Johannesburg. AmaWaterways had planned a day for us that included an introduction to some of the charity work they do, a stop in the township of Soweto as well as visits to the Nelson Mandela home, a lecture on the diamond and gold trade (which was also open and beyond interesting to me due to the nature of the discussion of economics), followed by dinner.

I must be honest, when I first saw this day scheduled, my thought was… what a bore. Maybe I will skip it and just rest. But after hearing Delia speak about it, and Beverleigh discussing it, and the enthusiasm that Lucky (the man from Ama who had met us at the airport) showed about it, we had to go. Our first stop was the Township of Soweto. If you are unfamiliar with what a township is, I pulled this (via AI) from Google:

In South Africa, a township is a residential area established during the apartheid era to segregate non-white populations, primarily Black, Coloured, and Indian communities, from white residents. These areas were characterized by limited infrastructure, overcrowding, and socioeconomic challenges. While apartheid ended in 1994, the term “township” continues to be used to refer to these historically designated areas, which have since undergone significant transformation.

As we drive to Soweto, the things we see outside our windows get progressively worse. The poverty and conditions start at a level below what would be considered the poverty line in the USA, and they go down from there. No running water, no toilets except for some porta-potties, no facilities to wash clothes, no place to wash yourself on a regular basis, and eventually, nothing. Lucky told us how bad it was, and his stories were worse than what we were seeing. Garbage was everywhere. Not because people didn’t care, but because there was nowhere else to put it. One large apartment-size bin that would have served 100 apartments in the USA and been picked up once a week had to serve thousands of people and be picked up once a month.

We finally pulled into a part of Soweto that was as bad as anything we had seen. Lucky told us that his new trainee, Colin, would take over the tour from here because Colin lived here…in this part of Soweto. Colin invited us to leave the bus and walk through the area. He said not to take photos of adults unless we asked permission first, but that kids would happily say, “Shoot me!” and want us to take their photos. We walked through some of the saddest urban blight I have ever seen and finally reached an oasis in the midst of all the despair. That oasis was the Kliptown Youth Program. It is a school, a community center, and so much more. They had an American donor who was introduced to the place via AmaWaterways. They gave the center $2.5 million to build the building, and since then, Ama and their guests have supported the center in many ways.

When we got to the center, we met Thando Bezana. He is one of the many people who run the center. Over the next two hours, we toured the center and discovered how incredibly successful they have been in helping kids achieve success. Touring the center and walking through Soweto was one of the most eye-opening experiences of my life. I think I will shut up here and let you see some photos I took that day. We will start with a walk through a part of Soweto. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping. And PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…

A couple of things to add about this walk. We went into a home, but I didn’t feel comfortable taking photos inside. It was dark, and it smelled of the paraffin stove they used for cooking indoors. There was makeshift furniture and no electricity or running water. Outside, laundry that had been done at the local faucet (the area’s only running water) was hanging out to dry. It was both a home and total squalor.

However, the most remarkable aspect was the people who lived here. They may live the hardest life I have ever seen in a modern city, and yet their spirit seems indomitable. Smiles were on the faces everywhere we looked, especially those of the children. The adults we saw seemed to genuinely love their kids and were great parents, trying as hard as they could, but just unable to break free and move on.

But one reason to rejoice in the midst of all this was the aforementioned Kliptown Youth program. Here are the photos I took at their center.

Kathleen and I have decided that this will now be our chosen charity. The good work they are doing there is making a dent in one of the worst situations I have ever seen. It is not a solution. As I discussed later with A.J., this problem is generational. But it has to start somewhere, and KlypTown is a good place to make that happen. If you are interested in exploring this further, you can see their website by clicking here. I encourage you to take a look.

Here’s a quick video of the guys dancing. They were amazing and talented.

After our emotional morning at KYP, it was time to immerse ourselves in some South African history by first visiting the home of Nelson Mandela. I don’t have to say anything about apartheid or Mandela, because it is almost certain you know the story. Imprisoned for years, he is finally able to unite his country and put all of apartheid in the past (we later found that sadly, that was not true). After that visit, we headed to another neighborhood to visit and have lunch at the last home he lived in prior to his death. Lunch was wonderful, and it was wonderful seeing both homes. Mandela is to South Africans what George Washington is to the United States. Just about ten times more important. His photo and legacy are everywhere. Not only is it on the 100 rand note, but his face is on every single other piece of money I had in my pocket from 10 rand notes. We were shown around the house by David, a grad student who knew his stuff and explained the complicated relationship between Winnie and Nelson Mandela. It was a great experience. Here are some photos I took while at the two houses and on the street outside, where dance groups were circling constantly looking for tips.

After our lunch, we had a free afternoon. Some of the folks wanted to shop, so the bus dropped them off at an upscale shopping mall. Others, like us wanted to go back to the hotel, Kathleen to nap and try not to cough, and I wanted to work on a post. But first, we needed just a couple of things from a local pharmacy. The hotel provided us with a driver and van (at no cost) to transport us to the pharmacy (approximately eight to ten blocks away), wait for us while we shopped, and then return us to the hotel. I mention this mundane piece of information because in any other city that we have ever visited, I would have just walked those eight to ten blocks and picked up what we needed. While driving there and waiting with the driver, he and I had a frank discussion about the security at the hotel, the reasons that I couldn’t have walked, the fact that in Cape Town we were told not to leave the tourist area and why we should feel unsafe.

Some quick stats that blew us away:

• Overall Unemployment:

  South Africa’s official unemployment rate rose to 32.9% in the first quarter of 2025. 
• Expanded Unemployment:

  The expanded unemployment rate, which includes those who have given up looking for work, is 43.1%. 
• Youth Unemployment:

  The unemployment rate among young people is particularly high, with one report indicating it was 53.5% in the first quarter of 2022. 
• Gender Disparities:

  Women generally experience higher unemployment rates than men. 
• Racial Disparities:

  Black Africans face significantly higher unemployment rates compared to other racial groups. 

When you put all this together, you get a country and urban area that is primed for crime. People have to steal just to survive. And there are no jobs. And the jobs that exist for those at the bottom of the spectrum (youth, Black Africans, and women) pay very poorly. (The minimum wage in South Africa is R28.79 per hour—equal to $1.64. That’s $65 for a 40 hour week and $261 for a month.) No wonder places like Soweto still exist.

After our free time ended, we gathered in a hotel meeting room for drinks and a quick talk (about an hour) about the gold, diamond, and precious mineral trade in South Africa, and how it shaped the country’s history and continues to do so today. A historian specializing in South African history (whose name I can’t recall) joined us to provide facts. She was very knowledgeable and knew her stuff. As it turns out, South Africa is one of the richest countries in the world in terms of natural resources. They are among the top producers of gold, diamonds, platinum, and many other precious minerals that keep the world turning. However, much of South Africa’s wealth has been, and still is, owned and exploited by foreign interests.

When she finished, a question-and-answer session followed, and she was joined by Beverleigh, our Johannesburg AmaWaterways specialist. Both were very candid. I asked, “Why, when Mandela took over, considering his relationship with Castro and other socialists, why did he and his party not nationalize the mines and the sources of these other minerals?” Their answer saddened me. The answer that both women gave was that Mandela had to contend with other, mostly Western countries dictating terms to him. If he wanted recognition and support for the new government, then they needed to back off on any thoughts of socialism or nationalization of the white, foreign business interests.

I guess that about sums it up. Our day concluded with the aforementioned dinner conversation. My conclusions, (yes, I know I need to do more research) were that we (the rest of the world) have been exploiting this country and others in Africa and still are, to the detriment of its people. And to make matters worse, while we were in the country for less than two weeks, there were at least two breaking news stories about national corruption in the South African government.

Now that I have said all that, I must tell you that in over 20 years of travel, visiting 55 countries, we have NEVER experienced better service—complete with smiles and genuine graciousness—than the service and caring we received in Southern Africa. These are people who have been downtrodden for so long, yet their spirit is incredible. Some of the hardest working and most joyful people we have ever encountered. Even in Soweto, or in a village just beginning to form alongside a river in Namibia, or among those still living under the shadow of colonialism in Victoria Falls, there was happiness and authentic caring. People going above and beyond to take care of us.

I’m about to step down from my high horse. Please just understand that I (like Ryan Phillipe) have very mixed feelings about Africa, but I completely appreciate the openness and spirit of its people. Let’s wrap this up on a positive note with one more video showing some of those incredible dancers.

PS: I will be back tomorrow with more animals from our four day trip to Tintswalo Safari Lodge just outside Kruger National Park.