Nazis, Heroes, Communists, Food and more…
Yes, we had all those things in our last full day in Budapest; we got up late (after our late-night, worthless tour), and while Kathleen showered and changed and before we had our hotel buffet breakfast (included in our Viking post-cruise extension) I went out for a short pre-dawn photo walk. I hadn’t gotten many of those in on this trip. Really not a single one since we had left Lisbon. It’s not like I hadn’t planned for them. I had maps of the things I wanted to take photos of in that wonderful early morning light. And I had brought clothing to wear along with my boots—I had even planned on the ice and snow we encountered in Prague. What I hadn’t expected was how late the sun would come up. Most of the time, we had someplace we had to be (usually a tour) at 8:30. And when the sun doesn’t come up until 7:30 or later, it’s hard to find time to be there when it does.
This day was different as our only tour didn’t start until 10:00 am, so I was able to go out and take photos of the last two major sites I hadn’t seen yet. First up were some close-ups of the incredible Parliament Building I had been taking so many long-distance photos of, and then, while walking back to the hotel, I could visit the Shoes on the Danube Bank memorial. We had driven by the Shoes memorial a few times, and I had the chance in on two previous afternoons, but I wanted to be there alone, and usually, it was jammed with people. If you have not heard of the Shoes on the Danube Bank before, it is a monument to thousands of Jews who were taken from the Jewish Ghetto in Budapest in 1944-45 and killed. The fascist Hungarian Arrow Cross party took them to the edge of the Danube, made them undress and take off their shoes (which could later be sold) and then shot them so they fell into the river and were swept away. The memorial is a beautiful tribute to those people. You can read about it by clicking here.
In the meantime, here are the photos I took early that morning. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can then scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping…and PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…
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- As i headed out from the hotel I took one shots of Buda on the far side of the river.
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- This statue stands at the east end of the Parliament Building
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- And here are some close ups of this beautiful building that looks so magnificent at night with the lights on. i
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- Close up 1
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- Close up 2
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- Close up 3
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- Close up 4
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- Close up 5
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- Close up 6
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- Close up 7
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- And then another look back across the river…
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- Where the sun was just starting to make an appearance.
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- And then the Shoes on the Danube Memorial.
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- People had left flowers and candles.
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- It is such a wonderful and symbolic memorial.
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- That commemorates the evil men do to others.
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- It is both somber and sobering.
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- And incredibly sad.
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- Once past it I head back to our hotel.
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- On the way I passed our ship, now with an entirely new set of passengers.
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- And less than 100 yards away…our hotel.
For the balance of the day, we had a private tour planned with Melinda from Tours by Locals. If you have been reading my posts, you know that this is a company I have grown to love. Between myself and Jamie and Steve on their London/Paris land trip we have used them on at least 15 tours. I chose Melinda’s tour because in the description of her tour she said, “This private tour is perfect for those who have already seen the highlights and want to explore the city further.” This meant that we could do the tours with Viking, and then I could let her know what we still wanted to see, and she would set us up to go there.
Even though this was a private tour in a van (not a “luxury motor coach”), Kathleen was worried that getting in and out of the van and doing what walking we would be doing might make her knee worse. And she was VERY worried (as was I) about the next day when we knew we would make a long tramp through Charles DeGaulle airport, not to mention wading through security and check-in here in Budapest. Plus, she was still wiped out after our worthless tour the night before when we didn’t get back until almost 11:00. So she decided to let the other four of us go (our new friend Carol was joining us as well).
Right on time, Melinda walked into the hotel lobby to collect us. We jumped into a Mercedes van with a driver, and we were off on our four-hour adventure. Our first stop was Heroes Square. On our first-day overview tour with Barbie, we had driven past it, but we wanted to walk around as well as see the castle and seasonal ice skating rink behind it. Heroes Square is packed with amazing statues and monuments to (I think) every person who ever had a hand in creating Hungary and keeping it alive during the years in between. I wish I could tell you who all the statues represented, and I did get a few of them. You can read about them below, in the captions of the photos I took in the square. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can then scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping…and PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…
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- Stupidly, I forgot to take a photo of the overall square. This is one corner.
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- This is the other.
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- This is the center
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- A closeup of the seven statues that represent the founders of Hungary.
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- The statues are about 30 feet high.
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- But they. are impressive.
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- And they are everywhere.
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- It was worth coming back to see them.
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- The Hungarians truly respect their heroes.
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- These two sat opposite each other on the left and right corners.
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- Kind of a face off between war and peace.
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- I liked this shot because it combines the old with the contrails of the modern.
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- There were protestors in the Square as well.
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- Very eye-catching.
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- As was this helium (not hot air) balloon that suddenly appeared behind the square.
Just across the street from Heroes Square were two other places we wanted to see: the seasonal ice skating rink and the Vajdahunyad Castle that sat right behind it. We had seen both while driving with Barbie, and I got an idea for some artsy photography I wanted to try at the rink. Here are the photos we took (without the artsy black-and-white stuff). Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can then scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping…and PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…
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- A really nice castle…
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- The balloon makes another appearance.
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- As we get closer to the castle…
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- I see a really cool lion.
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- Other parts of the castle.
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- This building houses the Hungarian Agricultural Department.
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- There is also a small chapel.
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- The chapel had a very unique façade.
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- Next to the castle is the seasonal (not there all year) outdoor skating rink.
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- This is the building behind the ice rink.
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- I kind of liked it.
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- And then there is Anonymous. Seriously, that’s the statues name.
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- And the castle from behind.
One other thing during our stop near Heroes Square was another Christmas Market. Not a huge one, but certainly as big as many we had seen. But they had some of the best looking food I had seen and since it was early in the day, there wasn’t a huge crowd waiting to buy it so I could get some great photos…that I hope will make your mouth water. Enjoy.
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- The food at every Christmas Market we had seen was this good…
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- And there was this much of it.
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- Of course these changed by country.
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- But the quality and the quantity were amazing.
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- I get hungry just looking at these.
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- It’s almost lunch time as I am typing this…
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- Wish I was there.
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- Just amazing food.
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- And it all looked so darned good.
After our walk, we were off to our longest drive of the day to Memento Park. Our good friend Marjorie had visited the park when she was in Budapest and had told us about it. As I always do, I thought it sounded interesting but more importantly, a chance for some great photography. This was the only place I had told Melinda we wanted to go before we got to Budapest because I knew it was too far out in the countryside for Viking to take us there. Besides, it was one of those hidden gems you always hear about.
Memento Park is where old statues go to die. Seriously. In the early 1990s, when the Communist dictatorship ended, the people of Hungary were ticked! So they took down all the symbols of Communism from around the city of Budapest and moved samples of it to Mememto Park as a constant reminder to never let that happen again. So you can go and visit these statues and celebrate how incredibly naïve Soviet-era communism was. Check out the photos to get an idea of what I am talking about. Their symbolism is truly wrong, but they are interesting historical artifacts. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can then scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping…and PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…
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- Welcome to Memento Park.
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- These are not in the park. The two boots you see there are Stalin’s they were at that bottom of a statue that was more than 80 feet. All they moved here were the boots.
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- Outside the park…about to head in we saw…
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- Marx and Engels, the two founding fathers of Communism.
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- An original Trabant, Built in East Germany, it is almost made of cardboard.
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- The inside. Strange thing…we saw one of these on the street that evening.
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- Once inside there are about 30 statues…
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- Spread all around the park.
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- All types of Soviet artwork.
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- Representing the worst of Communism.
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- This one is definitely the best.
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- I just wish I had thought to put people in the photo for scale.
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- Wanted to get him in the best light.
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- Strange stuff.
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- Melinda explains one of the statues to Jamie and Steve.
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- This one commemorates the Hungarian Communist contribution to the Spanish Civil War.
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- Not a statue but how the Hungarians build water towers.
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- I loved the way he is catching a jet in the sky.
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- More humans for scale. My brother is six foot, eight so you know these statues must be huge.
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- A very interesting piece showing Stalin urging troops on to war.
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- Some closeups of the piece.
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- Really different from everything else.
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- I liked these guys….
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- The electrical wires in the background seemed to suit them as opposed to being a distraction.
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- The ticket sales area actually had music (military music) playing on this very old radio.
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- On my way out of the park.
After this quick look at the Soviet occupation, we were off to see two more things. One was a viewpoint where Melinda said we could get a wonderful and complete overall view of Budapest, and the other was the Opera House, where we could get photos of the lobby but would need to take a tour to see the inside, and we didn’t have time to do that with her. Here are the photos from those spots. You know the drill.
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- Melinda was right…
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- What an incredible view!
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- We could see everything from up here…
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- From a completely different angle than from down below.
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- Even the Parliament Building.
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- And then a quick drive downtown to the Opera House.
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- Which, sadly, was having a private function, so this was the only photo I could get.
After that, we went back to the hotel so we could pack for our flight the next morning. Anita (our Viking Extension concierge) had wrangled us some reservations at a great restaurant because we all wanted one more night of Hungarian food. The place was called Rezkakas, and their goulash was about as close to a perfect meal as we had eaten on this trip. If you go to Budapest, eat there! I wish I had taken a photo of it but when it got to the table, it looked so good, I ate it without thinking about it. The whole evening was a great experience…especially since Carol joined us for a farewell dinner, and Steve and Jamie picked up the entire check as a birthday present (the next day) for me.
Dictators fall when they’re overconfident; they stay in power when they’re paranoid. —Masha Gessen
My good friends Mike and Cathy took this exact cruise with Viking last year at about the same time. Well, it was not exactly the same cruise; they went the other way. Instead of sailing from Regensburg to Budapest (BTW: we have learned that the name of this city is pronounced Budapesht; they don’t want to be a pest ?). We did the opposite. And now that we have arrived here, I am so glad we did it that way. Our cruise started with the worst port, and every one after it got a little better until Thursday morning when we arrived in this incredible city.
