London, Lasso, Lunch & A Mystery

by | Jun 14, 2024 | Photography

Yesterday was very different compared to our previous 14 here in the UK. It was our first full day in London. I almost didn’t post about it, but then I decided to use it as an example of how I plan our travels and why I sometimes stress when we are out. I can see plans getting messed up.

So, let’s start with the main goals of the day. One was to tour Richmond, a suburb on London’s far, far west end—beyond the West End you think of when you think of London. The one that’s like Broadway in the USA. That is funny since that other West End is where we wound up late last night. And the biggest problem is that we are staying in Greenwich, a suburb on the far, far, east end of London. And London traffic sucks. I mean really sucks.

If you know me, you know how much I love the television show Ted Lasso. This show literally changed my entire outlook on life. I use it regularly as therapy. If I have a terrible day, I watch an episode or two of Ted Lasso. I love Ted as a TV show as much as I love Princess Bride as a movie. Ted Lasso is set in Richmond, and if we were to come to London, I would have wanted to see Richmond. And I would like to take a Ted Lasso Tour of Richmond. I was able to find a tour company that does tours based on movies here in London called Brit Movie Tours. They have a Harry Potter tour, a Game of Thrones tour, etc. We booked it, which meant I had to coordinate getting us from one extreme end of London to another. It also meant I needed to avoid some of the more usual ways of making the transit. With Kathleen’s back and knees, I had to avoid stairs and a ton of walking, so that meant no Tube. And the idea of a two-hour-plus Uber ride from Greenwich to Richmond was just too much.

To top all this off, we also made plans to see a West End musical last night. So, with the four of us depending on my travel planning expertise, I found some interesting (I think) ways to traverse London, miss a bunch of the traffic, see the city from a different point of view and not kill us in the process…which I almost did. I am saying right now that this schedule was too much, especially for poor Steve and Jamie, who were still mostly in California during this time. Seeing a musical in the West End when their bodies told them it was 4:00 am is not fun. So, in the future, one big thing per day. Not one in the morning and one at night. The night before, I sent the four of us a text with the schedule for the next day. I thought I would show you what it looked like.

Ted Lasso/Theater Day Schedule

  • 7:15 Breakfast
  • 7:55 Take Uber to Greenwich Pier
  • 8:23 Take Uber Boat (RB1) to Blackfriars. 
  • 9:14 Transfer to Putney Boat (RB6) to Putney Pier
  • 9:57 Arrive Putney Pier
  • 10:00 Take Uber to Richmond Station/The Quadrant
  • 11:00 Ted Lasso Tour begins at Richmond Station/The Quadrant
  • 13:00 Ted Lasso Tour ends
  • 13:10 Lunch
  • 14:05 Take Uber Boat (RB6) to Greenwich
  • 15:45 Arrive at Greenwich Pier and take Uber to the hotel
  • Rest and relax for 45 minutes
  • 16:30 Take Uber to Ivy West End (time dependent on traffic) for dinner
  • 17:30 Dinner at Ivy West End
  • 19:30 Kathy and Stella Solve a Mystery at The Ambassador’s Theater
  • 20:00 Take Uber back to the hotel

So, a little explanation. In London, they have a service I had yet to hear of before, The Uber Boat. You book it on your Uber app, you meet it at one of about 30 stops on the Thames, and it takes you from one side of the city to the other on a catamaran-type boat that, in some places, moves pretty fast and in others, not so much.

Of course, the schedule didn’t go perfectly. It was pretty much doing great right through until we were supposed to head to dinner at the West End Ivy. My only complaint (Mulgrew time) was that the second Uber Boat was almost 20 minutes late…but your faithful travel planner had planned that time into the schedule…so we actually arrived at the tour meet-up spot at 10:50 am for an 11:00 a.m. tour. Also, when the second Uber Boat arrived, something was VERY wrong with the sewage system on board. I mean, gaggingly wrong. One of the worst smells I have ever smelt. This meant I sat outside for most of that trip. Luckily, that meant some river-level photos of London. I will let you judge that for yourself. Here are the photos I took on our way west. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can then scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping…and PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…

Ted Lasso

When we arrived in Richmond on our VERY stinky boat (we actually got off at the furthest west stop, the Putney Pier and then had to take an Uber car to Richmond), we were met by Bruce, who would be our guide to all things Ted Lasso. From this point (if you are not a huge Ted Lasso fan, you can skip forward…and never speak to me again ?), otherwise, here are some photos of the tour and how they relate to the show.

After we finished our Ted Tour, we went off in search of lunch. During the tour, we had walked by this small (really small) Italian place that smelled like a little bit of heaven. Actually, it smelled like Steve and my Italian grandmother’s kitchen on Christmas Eve. We had to go back and see if we could eat there. We could! Sadly, I had eaten much of my lunch before I remembered to take a photo of it. So if you like plates of half-finished pasta, you will love this. Suffice it to say, I inhaled this sucker. One of the best plates of pasta I have ever had.

Then an Uber to the Putney Pier, the Uber Boar (Damn! We got the stinky one again), Uber to the hotel and get ready to go out again.

The Theater

This is where we almost lost it. I had budgeted an hour to get from the hotel to the Ivy Restaurant in the West End, which was across the street from the theater. According to Google Maps, we only needed 45 minutes, but I didn’t build in how long it would take to get an Uber. The ones in the morning had been there in minutes, but when we went to get an Uber to leave at that time, the Uber app told me that the closest driver that would accept our drive was 25 minutes away. To be fair, he was only two miles away, but in the London traffic, it took him 25 minutes to get to us. Seriously, 25 minutes to go two miles. By the time he got to us, we were already 10 minutes behind schedule. My biggest fear was that they would give our table to someone else, and since I had booked them through Open Table, I didn’t have contact info to reach them to let them know we were on our way.

Thankfully, our driver made a better time than we thought he would, arriving only 14 minutes after our reservation—a good thing because they only hold them for 15 minutes. We got to the desk, and I overheard the hostess tell people in front of us that the next open table was at 9:15 p.m. But our table was waiting, and we had a great meal before we adjourned to the theater just across the street.

What did we go see? Well, when you want to see a show in the West End, you pretty much have three choices. One is one of the older, established shows like Phantom, Mama Mia, or Wicked or the longest-running play in history—Agatha Christie’s Mousetrap, which has been playing continuously in the same theater since 1951. Seriously, Kathleen and I saw it there in 2003. It’s still going strong. We really wanted to see something new, so this one was out.

Your second choice is the new shows, which have limited runs and famous actors starring in them. We would have loved one of these, but they sell out in minutes if not seconds.

We went with the third choice, a new musical. Lots of them open and don’t do well. Some open for the first time in the West End and do GREAT. Lion King comes to mind. The one that we could get decent seats to is a brand-new musical about two girls with a murder podcast. It’s called…

...Solve a Murder! And it was a hoot. Great music and a superb cast of seven who kept us laughing and crying for 2.5 hours (with an interval) and a fun plot. We really enjoyed it, and Steve actually made it through without falling asleep for too long. I am truly sorry I forced them to have this long day when they weren’t fully recovered from their jet lag. After that it was just back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep. As I write this we are waiting until 10:45 a.m. to check out of the hotel and head to Viking Venus for the second half of our journey. More tomorrow.

There’s nowhere else like London. Nothing at all, anywhere.  —Vivienne Westwood

 

#1 in My Beautiful Book

by | Jun 12, 2024 | Food Experiences, Photography

We have been to a lot of places. At last count, we have visited 52 countries. Norway next week will be our 53rd. Up until this trip, I was utterly convinced that the most beautiful place in the world is New Zealand. We were blown away by the incredible views of nature when we visited on our trip Down Under in 2009. 

But after this trip, I have changed my mind. Scotland is the MOST BEAUTIFUL PLACE on earth. Seriously—have you seen my photos? Of course, I don’t mean the cities as much as the country overall. I was becoming increasingly convinced as we traveled through the countryside, but when we went through Glencoe the other day, I realized this was it. The most beautiful place on earth…at least for me. I know that many of you would prefer a warmer climate, but for me, give me the constantly changing weather of Scotland.

I say this with the knowledge that we live in the Pacific Northwest, where the natural beauty is also amazing, but it’s what man has done that has tarnished Seattle and the Northwest for me. All of the places we have been I can never remember saying to myself, WOW and WOW and WOW, so often.

So, let’s sum up our trip so far and give you some honest recommendations about hotels and restaurants.

First, this has been an awesome trip so far, marred by only my catching a cold. And I am thrilled to say that other than an early-morning cough and a slightly runny nose, I am cured. We have had the best time. Where we stayed and what we ate had a lot to do with that so here’s a recap and recommendations.

Lodging

Nights 1-3: Leeds, England

  • Hotel: Howard Bed and Breakfast—Leeds
    • Bed: Excellent
    • Room size: Great, but no closet space left for us to use ?.
    • Hosts: The best of the trip. They not only took great care of us at the B&B, but they picked us up at the train station and then later toured us all over Yorkshire and took us back to the train station. 
    • Breakfasts: Excellent and plentiful.
    • What they did best: They made us feel like we were part of the family.
    • Things they could improve: Less stinky cheese.
    • Problems you will have in staying there: You can’t book this place. You have to become friends with owners, and then you stay at their house, they stay at yours, you cruise all over the world with them, and then you get to stay there…again.
    • Would we stay there again? Only if the hosts from there come to see us first. It’s their turn.

 

Nights 4-5 and 11-12: Glasgow, Scotland

  • Hotel: Grasshoppers
    • Bed: Subpar on the first part of our stay and better on the second. The first bed we had needed to be replaced. When you sat on the edge of it, it felt like you would slide right off. On their website, they call their beds, “kings.” Not by US standards. They are basic queens to us. We sleep in a king at home. This is NOT a king.
    • Room size: First stay, a typical small European experience. Second, stay in a bigger room that we liked a lot better. Both bathrooms were the same, adequate size.
    • Hosts: The people there were very helpful. We had to have our keys remade about six or eight times, and they never complained. Not sure why I had such problems with my keys but it might be my magnetic personality ?.
    • Breakfasts: Excellent and plentiful. Complete choice of everything you could want for breakfast, from baked beans to granola. They did have the BEST whole grain bread for toast. I could eat that by the loaf. The only fall down here was cold plates. It would be best if you never had to put their excellent scrambled eggs on cold plates. 
    • What they did best: For me, it’s their location. Since they are above Glasgow’s Central Station, we got off the train, walked out of the station, around the corner, went up to the sixth floor, and we were there. When we left to come down to London, we walked out of our room at 10:00 am, and we were on the train at 10:15. Try that in an airport. They also had the absolute BEST water pressure on this trip and great bath towels—big and absorbent. I could still be in the shower if we hadn’t had to catch the train. Did I mention the free, always-available cakes and ice creams?
    • Things they could improve: Use hot plates in the breakfast room. And get a new mattress in 603.
    • Problems you will have in staying there: Book early. But realize they don’t open booking until six months prior. By that time, I had all the other hotels on this trip booked. Also, please note that the entrance at street level is difficult—a few steps to climb to get into the building before you get to the elevator. Tough with heavy luggage. 
    • Would we stay there again? If we were going back to Glasgow by train, we would. Doubt that will happen but you never know. We can recommend Grasshoppers very highly.

Nights 6-7: Oban, Scotland

  • Hotel: The Manor House 
    • Bed: Just fine, but a “double bed,” not even a Queen. Keep that in mind. It was cozy.
    • Room size: A typical small European experience in a historic inn. The bathrooms were adequate in size, but because of the dormers on the roof, the shower ceiling was very low.
    • Hosts: The incredible David took such great care of us. When he learned we would be missing breakfast due to a tour, he made us a sack lunch we could take with us. Both nights, we were regaled with stories over a round of whisky.
    • Breakfasts: Due to our early tour on the first morning, we only ate breakfast once. It was just fine, if a little fancy. When I am out on vacation and may miss lunch, I prefer a heartier breakfast. Theirs left much to be desired in terms of quantity. Worst bread of the trip. The toast was like eating warm Wonder Bread.  
    • What they did best: One word: David. He made our visit.
    • Things they could improve: It shocked me at breakfast in the classiest hotel we stayed in to be given the flimsiest paper napkins I have ever seen. Kleenex tissues have more substance. For a place like this not to have linen napkins? No excuse. They could also get better bathroom linens. Of all the places we stayed, these were the worst. 
    • Problems you will have staying there: If you are tall like me, book a ground floor room. The dormers in the upstairs mean that the showers in the bathroom will have no headroom. Not only did I have to bend over in the shower (no jokes here please) but I kept banging my hands into the ceiling when I was trying to apply shampoo.
    • Would we stay there again? Yes, but only if David is still there and we have a downstairs room.

Nights 8-10: Portree, Scotland

  • Hotel: Balintoy Bed and Breakfast
    • Bed: Excellent.
    • Room size: The biggest room we stayed in on this trip. We loved all the extra room. It is well laid out and well furnished. 
    • Hosts: As good as David was at the Manor House, Gillian positively affected our entire trip. She is the best. We corresponded before the trip, and she gave us some great advice that paid off while we were there. She’s the one who told us to book restaurants at least three months early. I can’t stress enough that you need to do this. She was exactly right. She also would check in with us at breakfast every morning about what we were doing that day and the best way to get there. She became less of a host and more of a friend as the three days passed. She always asked about our touring and dining on the previous day so she could pass the knowledge on to future guests. 
    • Breakfasts: Excellent. Done as a light buffet. And the BEST COFFEE on the entire trip. Strong and hot. She brought an entire French Press to our table…just for us. We always emptied it.  
    • What they did best: One word: Gillian. We also loved the location. It was about a mile from downtown, so it was very quiet but still easy to get to. 
    • Things they could improve: Not much. But one little thing that would be an easy fix—some small shelf in the shower, please. Lining up our shampoo, conditioner and soap on the shower floor was a pain. Just a hanging rack from the shower head would work. See how minor that is? This place was great.
    • Problems you will have in staying there: It took a bit of back and forth to make the reservation. I do wish that the Balintoy took credit cards, but they only accept cash or bank transfers. With much help from Gillian, we finally got the bank transfer thing to work. I still prefer having the safety of a creed card. 
    • Would we stay there again? You bet we would—in a minute.

Dining

Because of Gillian’s recommendations, I booked restaurant tables for dinner every night we were in Scotland other than the one night we did our 15-hour tour in Oban. I couldn’t get any restaurant to book after 8:00 p.m. and we couldn’t be sure we would be off the ferry by then. As it turned out we weren’t off until around 8:30 p.m. and there was nowhere that still had a kitchen open (It’s a small town).

Nights 1-3: Leeds, England

  • Night one: Howard Bed and Breakfast—Leeds
    • Delicious chicken dish. Lots of other great stuff to go with it.
  • Night two: Murgatroyds—Leeds
    • Really good Fish and Chips. Kind of a big family restaurant out by the airport. The fish was excellent. I am tired of chips. But I wasn’t when we had these, but could someone make crispy, thinner chips… please?
  • Day three: Lunch at the Wensleydale Heifer in Wensleydale
    •  had eaten dinner at the Heifer when we last visited Paul and Gail, and it was just as good then as it was this time. A HUGE lunch. Absolutely would go again, and you should too if you are ever in the area.
  • Day three: Howard Bed and Breakfast—Leeds
    • Dinner was just cheese, crackers, olives. No one wanted anything more. But then they brought out the stinky cheese. If you eat there, skip that.

Nights 4-5 and 11-12: Glasgow, Scotland

  • Night one: Banca di Roma
    • One of the best meals on the trip. How much did we like it? We went back again on Day 11. It was a nice break from local food to have some high-end Italian. Best appetizer of the trip. A four-item dish with some of the best chicken I have ever had. I have to learn how to make it. For entrées, Kathleen had eggplant parm, I had a bolognese sauce made from octopus. Not as good as it sounded but still delicious. 
  • Night two: The Ivy Cafe-Glasgow
    • Fun and quirky. Delicious shepherd’s pie. We would eat there again. We are eating at another Ivy with the same basic menu in London tomorrow night.
  • Day ten: Ardnamurchan
    • This place identifies itself as a “traditional Scottish restaurant.” That does not mean you have to eat haggis. I had a venison stew which is one of the two best meals I had on this trip. It tasted like candy…it was that good. My lovely wife had a lamb shank and I got to taste it. It was also amazing…but not as good as my stew.
  • Day eleven: Banca di Roma
    • See my note above. Still, the best appetizer we had. This time we had an entrée for two that was a delicious pasta dish but they gave us way too much.

Nights 6-7: Oban, Scotland

  • Night six: Ee-Usk
    • Even though it has a really different name, this place was outstanding. Kathleen had the halibut and I had a seafood salad that had more seafood than salad.
  • Night seven: No place
    • We couldn’t find anywhere to eat after we got off the ferry at 8:30 p.m. so we starved to death. The rest of this trip was finished by our doppelgängers.

Nights 8-10: Portree, Scotland

  • Night eight: The Antlers Inn
    • Just a good place for a quick meal. We had a big lunch in Mallaig so we just wanted to have a quick bite. This place was perfect. The best thing about dinner was the great service and the talk we had about the awesome music with the servers. It was a fun and memorable night. One of those you love to have when you are traveling. 
  • Night nine: The Rosedale Inn
    • As good as the seafood salad at Ee-Usk was, the seafood linguine at the Rosedale was better. And Kathleen had a gnocchi that rocked. It has sweet potatoes in the sauce and it made it taste just perfect.
  • Night ten: The View Restaurant
    • This place was tied for the best restaurant with the Banca di Roma. It has a gorgeous view (of course it did) but the food was amazing. The bread service came with an unexpected surprise—pickled walnuts. They are awesome! I immediately thought I needed to make it myself but when I looked up the recipe it turns out it takes A MONTH TO MAKE IT because the walnuts have to ferment. I think I will just buy it by the jar on Amazon. Our entrées were also amazing. Kathleen had the chicken which she really liked and I had “shins of beef and spring garlic risotto.” WOW! To find this kind of food this far north in such a small town was phenomenal. 

That about covers the food and lodging. Just a few more kudos to award. Except for some photos of the dishes of renown. Enjoy and feel free to look at these on your phone. That’s what I used to take them.

Best Scotland surprises:

  • How well I adjusted to driving on the “other” side of the road. The first couple of days Kathleen was freaking out because I was driving to close to the left curb. But after some much-needed direction from her I wised up and things improved. Until the last day when I actually bumped a curb with my rear left tire. I think it jumped out at me ?. 
  • How awesome the food was. Be honest, when you think of British and Scottish food, you don’t think of great cuisine, right? Well, that changed for me on this trip. All our food was amazing…except the chips.
  • How incredibly beautiful Scotland is. I knew it was beautiful, but WOW! There, I said it again.
  • How small Scotland is. Getting from one place to another took us no time at all. We were able to drive almost two-thirds of the country in six hours or so.. Try that in California and you will still be in California and have a ways to go.
  • How many fewer tourists we saw compared to what we expected. Pretty much every day (except returning from Portree to Glasgow) the traffic was just fine. Sometimes the car parks could be a little full but the downtowns of Oban and Portree were not that crowded. 
  • There were no midges. The pest of Scotland did not show up. We brought midge spray, we planned to wear dark clothes so as not to attract them, we did our research but no midges. Kathleen thinks that’s because the wind was always blowing and the temps stayed low.
  • The Scottish weather and how fast it changed. You could literally be in bright sun one minute and two minutes later be in pouring rain. And it kept going back and forth for the entire trip. On most days (as you can see in my photos) I had plenty of great weather to shoot in. In fact, I preferred the big fluffy clouds to a flat blue sky. We are so happy we are doing this trip and not the Med where the temps have soared into the 100s this week.

Biggest bad surprises:

  • How many people in Scotland (especially Glasgow) still smoke. It was everywhere. Every doorway, every street corner, and every place we went (thankfully not indoors) there were people smoking. We know that people smoke more in Europe than in our Pacific Northwest but this was much worse than we had seen in Greece, Italy and Spain two years ago. 

The one Scottish experience I never want to have again:

  • Trying to use the facilities on a 30-foot boat moving 25 knots an hour on a water surface with six-foot swells. I still don’t believe I survived that with my body intact. A close second would be waiting for a city bus for two hours in downtown Tobermory.

The one Scottish experience I really would love to have again:

  • This is a toss-up between my experience shooting the puffins on Lunga and just driving through Glencoe. After struggling through Fort William traffic I almost told Kathleen that we should just bag Glencoe and drive back to Glasgow by the shortest route. Thank heavens I didn’t.

For me, this sums up Scotland: beauty everywhere, great weather and wonderful people. I am happy to be married to a woman of Scottish ancestry so we have an excuse to come back someday…I hope. I would truly hate to think I won’t see the beautiful place again.

I am attached to the west coast of Scotland – it’s gorgeous to look at and challenging. You have to contend with the possibility of being blown away or rained on. And in the summer months, you can be eaten alive by midges.  —Clive Anderson 

One Last Day in Glasgow

by | Jun 11, 2024 | Photography

Before I start, I have to tell you about the photo above. This is the view out our hotel room window here at Grasshoppers in Glasgow. The hotel sits on the sixth floor above the Glasgow Central Rain Station. Those panels in the foreground that look like solar panels are actually skylights in the station below. Across from our room, we think those are apartments, but we aren’t sure anyone lives there as we have never seen any movement and only one light, and that’s a work light. But no matter what they are, we found the whole thing very interesting, and I had to include a shot of the view, now on with the actual post.

When doing our planning almost a year ago, Kathleen and I had discussed how much time we wanted to spend in Glasgow. We have been to Edinburgh three times in the past and have spent about seven days total there. We could easily spend three or four more and still not have seen or done everything we would like to. It is one of my favorite cities in the world.

So when discussing Glasgow, we decided we wanted at least two full days here along with the transition days when we came up from England, before we drove north, when we got back from up north, and today…when we take the train to London. We thought that two full days would make us want to come back again. In retrospect, one day would have been enough. We found Glasgow kind of boring. Yes, it has a very nice hotel, some great restaurants and beautiful murals, but to be honest, that’s about it.

I mentioned on our first full day that we had taken the Hop-on, Hop-off bus tour. Usually, when we do that, we take the entire tour and then return to the places we want to see again. We didn’t go back to anyplace. Just nothing intrigued us enough. There were a few things I wanted to walk to and take photos of, but I got those (show them to you in a minute) but; looking back on it, if I were planning this trip again, we would have stayed an extra day in Portree or gone up to Inverness (even though we have been there before) and then driven back, dropped the car and taken the train to London the next morning.

I am not dissing Glasgow—it’s just not our cup of tea. It is a grimier, more industrial city than Edinburgh and seems to be centered on shopping and museums. Edinburgh is a museum. I could walk the Royal Mile for hours. I am looking forward to stopping there next Monday during the cruise.

Now, on to the walk I took with my camera and the photos. After breakfast at the hotel, we went out to do a bit of shopping. Kathleen had forgotten to bring a hat, and since we are headed to the part of Norway that is beyond the Arctic Circle by the end of next week, she thought she might need one. So we were off to find her a nice, warm knit hat. Found it. Back at the hotel, I dropped Kathleen off, and I was out for a five-mile walk. Have camera, will travel. But first, here are a few pics while she and I were out walking that I liked.

The one place I had seen on our bus tour I wanted to explore more of was the Cathedral and the Necropolis. In case you don’t know exactly what a necropolis is, the dictionary that’s built into my Mac says that it’s “a cemetery, especially a large one, belonging to an ancient city.” Why did I want to see this necropolis, you ask? Well, a few years ago (quite a few years), we were huge fans of the Late, Late Show with Craig Ferguson, a native Glaswegian. As a special program, Craig brought a few guests (Kristen Bell, Michael Clark Duncan) to his hometown and filmed a great deal of the special in the necropolis. I don’t know why I recalled that, but I do remember that it looked quite interesting, so I decided I had to see it, and since it was right behind the cathedral, I figured I might as well see that too.

Along the way to and from, I saw more of the incredible murals that Glasgow is famous for, and I wanted better shots of them than I had been able to get off the top of the bus. So here are the pics with captions. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can then scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping…and PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…

That’s about it for our last day here in Glasgow. As I write this, I am sitting in the “sitting room” at Grasshoppers Hotel, looking out the windows at the view I started this post with. It’s 5:45 a.m., and Kathleen (like most normal humans) is asleep. We have tickets on the 10:18 a.m. train to London right downstairs. In fact, if I listen very carefully, I can hear them announcing the next train. It’s really kind of cool. I think I will leave you with one final photo. This is a panoramic shot from inside the station itself. Our room is above those windows on the left. I LOVE European train stations. For some reason, they just do it for me.  And since we will have more than four hours on a train from that station, watch later today for a summary of our time in England and Scotland.

The great thing about Glasgow is that if there’s a nuclear attack it’ll look exactly the same afterwards.  —Billy Connolly

 

Driving Back to Glasgow

by | Jun 11, 2024 | Photography

This post will be short. Mainly, because I didn’t expect to write it. I thought that yesterday (Monday) was just going to be a long car trip from Portree to Glasgow. And that’s how it was for our first three hours. Until we got through Fort William and turned to take a different route than we had come north on. We wanted to go through what is supposed to be one of the most beautiful parts of Scotland—Glencoe. BTW: When we stopped for lunch before we entered the actual Glencoe area, we saw some red deer. Here’s their three pics I got.

There are a lot of historical facts about Glencoe. It was the sight of a battle and a massacre and other stuff but for me, it will just have to be about the beauty. I am going to shut up now and show you Glencoe. We could only pull over for photos three times but suffice it to say that the rest of what you aren’t seeing was maybe even more beautiful. We just kept turning corners and saying, “Oh, my god!”

Here’s the pics. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can then scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping…and PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…

That’s it for tonight. I am just trying to catch up. Fell a day behind when we saw the puffins. We got into Glasgow and checked into our hotel last night. Had a nice dinner and then off to bed. Up today where I did a photo walk around Glasgow. We are back from dinner and about to sleep before we get up tomorrow and take the train to London to meet our usual traveling companions, my brother Steve and his wife Jamie. We will also be meeting new/old friends, Julie and Jamie, who are doing the cruise with us. I say new/old because Julie and I went to high school together back in Palm Springs (Class of 1971—go Indians!) but we haven’t seen each other in 50+ years. We have not met her husband Jamie but it should be fun having two Jamies on a cruise together.

I hope to do two posts tomorrow. An early morning one to round up my shots in Glasgow today and then one while we are on the train as a kind of a summary of Scotland—the highs and lows (not too many of those) so to speak. I will try and get that out before we are off the train. Depends on how good the rolling WiFi is. It’s a four-hour and 40-minute train ride so I will have plenty of time if the internet cooperates.

There are few places in my life that I’ve found more ruggedly beautiful than the Highlands of Scotland. The place is magical – it’s so far north, so remote, that sometimes it feels like you’ve left this world and gone to another.  —Julia London

 

Castles & Coos

by | Jun 11, 2024 | Photography

First, THE castle

On Sunday morning we again woke early at the Balintoy. We enjoyed one of Gillian’s great breakfasts (she makes a GREAT cup of coffee) and headed out to find two things—an extraordinary castle and coos.

A little Scottish history, as I understand it. In Scotland,  you have clans (extended families) and you have castles. Many of the clans had what is known as an “ancestral home.” For instance, the castle I wrote about two days ago in Armadale (where we had to run from the rain) was the ancestral home of the McDonald clan.

If you are not aware, my wonderful bride is of Scottish descent. Her mother was part of the McCray clan. The ancestral home of the McCray/MacRae clan is a castle you have undoubtedly seen numerous times in photos and films. It is, in all likelihood, Scotland’s most famous castle. It has been in multiple movies (a couple of James Bond films and a rom-com with Patrick Dempsey called “Maid of Honor”), and if it is not the most famous, it is undoubtedly the most photographed. Only Stirling Castle and possibly Edinburgh Castle are more famous but not more photogenic.

So, we needed to make a pilgrimage to Kathleen’s ancestral home. We had been to Eilean Donan in 2003 on our second trip to Europe and our first to Scotland. That was in November, and it was cold and rainy. We were looking forward to seeing it in June with better skies and to see if they had changed anything since we had been there before.

It took us about two hours to get there because, of course, there were things along the way I had to stop and take photos of to show you the incredible beauty that is Scotland. For instance, here’s our stops…another mountain, another waterfall and a vista that rocked.

We finally did arrive at Eileen Donan, and WHAT A ZOO! When we were here in 2003, we paid for entry (It was a small donation of a couple of pounds) and toured the two rooms that were available to view inside the castle. Most people stopped on the road across from the castle and took a photo. While we were there in 2003, we talked to one of the docents who toured us through the rooms, and she said they had expansion plans someday. No kidding.

When we pulled into the car park today (see, I have stopped calling it a parking lot already), there were already more than one hundred cars there. When we got to the brand new Visitor’s Center, gift shop, and restaurant building, we paid our £14 per person admission (and that was senior pricing) to tour the castle. You would think McCrays would get in free ?. On the way to said building, we must have passed more than 200 people.

Of course, I took a BUNCH of photos of Scotland’s most photogenic castle. Eileen Donan sits at the intersection of three lochs (Loch Long, Loch Duich and Loch Alsh), so it has played a significant role in protecting much of Scottish real estate. And it is the position of the castle, on a tiny island at the intersection of these lochs, that makes it so photogenic. So, without further ado, I have for you here my ground-level take on Eilean Donan. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can then scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping…and PLEASE…don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…

I would love to show you photos of the inside, but there are numerous signs and numerous docents telling you NO! Suffice it to say it combines Scottish history and Pirates of the Caribbean. Many documents, artifacts and exhibits mixed in with kitchen scenes with mannequins dressed in period clothes trying to stop dishes from falling off a shelf. Seriously. Let’s say some of it went a bit too far. And getting through the place took some time as it was PACKED! Nothing like our November 2003 visit when we had been the only ones there. I am glad to see them so prosperous, but I am also sad to see people treating it as the Scottish version of Disneyland.

Once we had toured the interior of the castle, we went to the restaurant and grabbed a latte and some Scottish shortbread. Then it was off to the gift shop to find the first coo we were to see that day. You see, we were on a hunt for two kinds of coo. One would be a tiny piece of pottery and the other a full-size coo. We got both. The first one we found was in the gift shop. Whew!

Kathleen had seen a very cute ceramic coo at the Balintoy. And when we asked Gillian where she had purchased them, she was pretty sure she had done that at a pottery shop in Uig. The same Uig where we had had lunch the day before. She said it was on the backside of the big car park. We had parked on the front side of the big car park and never seen it. That meant if we didn’t find it in downtown Portree or someplace else, we were driving the 50-mile round trip to Uig to get one. Sadly, we didn’t find it in the Eilean Donan gift shop. Thankfully, Kathleen found one she liked even better!!!! Check that off our list. Now we just need to find the real thing—a live coo.

In researching the trip in Scottish FaceBook groups I had learned that there was a little-known place you could drive up to on a tiny one-lane road to take a photo from above the castle. We asked one of the car park attendants and he was nice enough to give us explicit directions (but swore us to secrecy) and off we went. His directions were right on the money and these photos are the result. My best shots of the castle— either this year or in 2003.

When we were up at the top we had one of those fun travel experiences. The night before we had seen a group of six people eating in the Rosedale when we were having dinner. We could tell by their accents they were Americans. And where should we run into them again? At the top of this hill. They admitted they had not found out the location from the secret guy in the car park but that their guide (who we got to meet) had driven them there. We talked and joked and I took their group photo and the guide was a huge help to get us on our way.

On to the real coos!

For those of you who are not sure about what in the heck I have been writing about when I talk about coos…coos are Scottish Highland cows. In the wonderful dialect that people speak in Scotland, they become coos. They are different from regular cows. They have to be the shaggy, hair-in-their-face kind of cow. You have undoubtedly seen them (if you have ever followed a Scottish FB group or anyone Scottish on Instagram—as they celebrate Coosday every Tuesday). We had not seen a single one yet except when driving at breakneck speed to get to Balintoy and make our dinner reservation.

Having seen a YouTube video taken in the small, nearby village of Plockton, that featured numerous coos we decided to head that way. And our SatNav (no longer a GPS to us) took us on quite the ride to get there. It was supposed to take us on an A road (one lane in both directions) but ended up taking us through some scenic countryside on a B road (one lane in ANY direction). I did get some decent photos on the way. Especially this one that Kathleen spotted for me. You can actually see a regular cow in the distance in the first pic. I couldn’t decide which photo I liked better, cropped or uncropped, so you get both.

We finally got there and were rewarded with exactly ZERO coos. The video had shown a whole bunch along the roadways, but they must have been at Coo church (after all, it was Sunday) because they weren’t out anywhere we could see them. So, sadly, we decided to head back to Portree. That route took us over the Skye Bridge, which is an architectural marvel. Had to get pics of that and when I did, I saw this cool lighthouse under it so I got one of those.

After crossing the bridge and driving back onto the Isle we were still looking for coos. Lo and behold— just outside the village of Sconser, we saw them—COOS! I quickly pulled off, grabbed my camera, and started shooting. Hope you love coos because here they come. I call this gallery The Many Faces of the Scottish Coo. Don’t forget; if you click the first shot, you can then scroll through with your arrow keys or by swiping… and PLEASE… don’t look at my photography on a phone. Please…

Like the puffins on Lunga, I shot about 300 photos of the Coos of Sconser. Luckily for you, the rest are just for me to look at with fondness ?.

After our coo encounter, it was back to Portree. Kathleen for a nap at the Balintoy and me for a walk to the village, where I hit some decent weather and got some great photos of the downtown. Here they are in all their glory.

That does it for our third and final day on the Isle of Skye. We were headed back to Glasgow the next morning (a six-hour drive). More about that tomorrow…or maybe later today.

I hate it when people romanticize Scotland.  —Alexander McQueen